That rear driveshaft looks to be much too short. Given in the pics the schakcles are almost inverted, I'd say the first big bump you go over will cause the splines to pop out...
How does it look now you've got the body on?
Rebuild 74 FJ40 RHD from Down Under - 2F to 2H to 12HT - 40 series Axles with 80 series Coils (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter watrob
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That rear driveshaft looks to be much too short. Given in the pics the schakcles are almost inverted, I'd say the first big bump you go over will cause the splines to pop out...
How does it look now you've got the body on?
- Thread starter
- #104
OK I'm back and back it seems for more punishment. I have decide to do another gal chassis, this time with coilovers and bolt my current tub, wheels, 2h diesel, gearbox, disc brakes etc onto it.
I look like getting a fellow forum member here in Australia to do the pre-fab on the chassis as I need a qualified engineer/welder so it will pass the Motor Transport Authority.
All my other components are already certified so that will make it a little easier, so it will end up a matter of pull it all off and put back on the new chassis - I hope!
I look like getting a fellow forum member here in Australia to do the pre-fab on the chassis as I need a qualified engineer/welder so it will pass the Motor Transport Authority.
All my other components are already certified so that will make it a little easier, so it will end up a matter of pull it all off and put back on the new chassis - I hope!
- Thread starter
- #105
Well I bought another chassis, this one was already gal'ed. I have asked a fellow forum member "Brooksy" who is also a member of Australian 4x4 forum with me as well to do the mod & welding to the chassis as I don't have the room or equipment to do the this part of the chassis work.
My plan is to use toyota OEM parts, I wanted to keep the fj40 as a whole chassis and use the original front & rear axles, but install 80 series coils around. On top of that I will be still using the 2H diesel but with a 5 speed gearbox this time, also will be fitting rear disc brakes as well, same as last time. \ and 60 series power streering box.
What I hope I will end up with is being able to lift my whole FJ40 (extended to a FJ43) sports fibre glass body and drop it straight onto this new chassis. I can then alternate between chassis over a 5 year period, I can clean & refurb one chassis while using the other.
Once Brooksy has the chassis work done I can then build the knuckles, diffs, disc brakes, motor, gearbox etc etc etc.
The following photo's & explaination have been taken & written by Brooksky.
My plan is to use toyota OEM parts, I wanted to keep the fj40 as a whole chassis and use the original front & rear axles, but install 80 series coils around. On top of that I will be still using the 2H diesel but with a 5 speed gearbox this time, also will be fitting rear disc brakes as well, same as last time. \ and 60 series power streering box.
What I hope I will end up with is being able to lift my whole FJ40 (extended to a FJ43) sports fibre glass body and drop it straight onto this new chassis. I can then alternate between chassis over a 5 year period, I can clean & refurb one chassis while using the other.
Once Brooksy has the chassis work done I can then build the knuckles, diffs, disc brakes, motor, gearbox etc etc etc.
The following photo's & explaination have been taken & written by Brooksky.
- Thread starter
- #106
Basically the customer is currently using his 40 but wants a chassis that is running coils so when the time comes that the current leaf configuration gets a bit much he can then drop his parts onto this chassis.
Now a couple difficulties that are a bit out of the ordinary but it is what the customer would like so I am happy to accomidate
So here are a couple pics for you all just to show how things have progressed.
I forgot to get pics of the 80 series chassis that was the donor for a lot of parts to make the job a little less expensive. Also the diffs in there strip down stage & completely cut & ground clean ready for coil brackets & mounts.
Chassis in it's bare state with most old unwanted brackets & mounts cut off.
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- Thread starter
- #107
Front coil & shock mounts tacked in place.
Rear inside frame plating ready for coil uppers & new cross members
Rear inside frame plating ready for coil uppers & new cross members
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- Thread starter
- #108
Rear crossmember & coil upper mounts tacked in place & diff placement checked
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- Thread starter
- #109
A lot of tapered cutting was required to get true fitment of coil mounts as some of you will know the 40 chassis tapers out in width basically from the firewall all the way to the very rear crossmember/bumper.
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- Thread starter
- #110
Next came the front rear crossmember which will allow front of coil uppers to be mounted but also the upper trailing arms.
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- Thread starter
- #111
Lower trailing arms chassis mounts. Ignore the writing as normally under an 80 series these mounts are flipped but due to the width of the 40 chassis & still being able to maintain the diff mounts on the 40 diffs without being too wide I mounted the brackets like this to maximise suspension control. The chassis tapering out plus the mounts allowed the trailing arms to have some triangulation, not much but some which certainly isn't a negative.
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- Thread starter
- #112
Once I was happy with clearances & diff housing location I decided to complete the welding in a couple areas.
Rear Panhard mount
Rear Panhard mount
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- Thread starter
- #113
Upper rear mounts fischer plates, coil uppers & panhard bracket
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- Thread starter
- #114
On to the front & this is where it gets a bit tricky due to the 40 housings. Trying to have enough room on the drivers side for panhard bracket on chassis, idler arm clearance & mounting a steering box (either 75 or 60 series). Also having clearance on hub steering arms & idler shaft from radius arms & on passenger side panhard bracket indiff housing. The other issue is the diffs aren't wide enough to match the coil perches on the chassis so the diff coil hats are 10mm inboard on each side. I am going to have to modify internal bumpstop as I think it will fowl on the coils but I think I have a fix for that. Getting the right caster is also important so I could set-up coil & shock mounts & more importantly radius arms. I solid mount the diff housing into position. I have used some RHS box as my datumn for all measurements on the front of the chassis once I was happy with it being true.
Anyway here are the last couple pics
Anyway here are the last couple pics
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- Thread starter
- #115
Got a bit done inbetween other jobs
Made the chassis mounts for the radius arms. Where they mounted the chassis started the taper out so I had to bend the front of the outer plate & the rear of the inner plate.
Made the chassis mounts for the radius arms. Where they mounted the chassis started the taper out so I had to bend the front of the outer plate & the rear of the inner plate.
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- Thread starter
- #116
Brackets tacked in place
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- Thread starter
- #117
More brackets
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- Thread starter
- #118
Onto the rear upper & lower diff mounts.
Lowers
Lowers
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- Thread starter
- #119
Rear Uppers
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- Thread starter
- #120
More rear uppers
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