Rear frame rattle can paint options (1 Viewer)

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I have been doing some body work to my '67 and have my bumperettes and tail lights off right now. I thought this would be a good time to paint the rear part of the frame since it could use some attention.

There is essentially no rust so I am going to bring it down to bare metal and paint it with a rattle can.

Any recommendations? I am going to go with a satin finish but not sure which brand yet. I know VHT and Rustoleum make a chassis paint but I am looking for other suggestions.

Thanks!!
 
I have been doing some body work to my '67 and have my bumperettes and tail lights off right now. I thought this would be a good time to paint the rear part of the frame since it could use some attention.

There is essentially no rust so I am going to bring it down to bare metal and paint it with a rattle can.

Any recommendations? I am going to go with a satin finish but not sure which brand yet. I know VHT and Rustoleum make a chassis paint but I am looking for other suggestions.

Thanks!!

I am happy with the way Eastwood Chassis paint turned out on mine.
 
If you want toughness of 2 part epoxy paint. The German spraymax 2K cans are pretty slick. Just puncture the harener, shake and spray. The nozzle has an adjustable spray pattern, vertical or horizontal. Easy to use, more spendy though. I’ve bought it from 66autocolor, they ship fast. I think @MadMace recently layed some down. Pretty sure Eastwood has a deal to sell it private label.
 
use a good primer first rattle can paint wont work well unless its primed first i use a rattle can paint from my local hardware store its 2 bucks a can and lasts for years
 
use a good primer first rattle can paint wont work well unless its primed first i use a rattle can paint from my local hardware store its 2 bucks a can and lasts for years

+1 on the good primer. I usually use an acid etching primer. Acid 8 is really good but quality of their spray tips seems to have gone down some...
 
If you want toughness of 2 part epoxy paint. The German spraymax 2K cans are pretty slick. Just puncture the harener, shake and spray. The nozzle has an adjustable spray pattern, vertical or horizontal. Easy to use, more spendy though. I’ve bought it from 66autocolor, they ship fast. I think @MadMace recently layed some down. Pretty sure Eastwood has a deal to sell it private label.

I use Spraymax 2k Clear on small things. That stuff is awesome. I am thinking about picking this up...2K Hot Rod Black - SprayMax
 
The SprayMax 2k is great stuff. They have an etching primer that I would not have hesitated to use if I hadn't already painted on MasterCoat Rust Sealer.

If you are going to take it down to bare metal, I would strongly consider the MasterCoat Rust Sealer--you'll never have to worry about rust again. You can then paint right over it. The problem with the MasterCoat is that you'll have to brush/roll it on unless you have a sprayer.
 
Throw some ZERO rust on there. It comes in a rattle can, and the sheen is pretty good, plus you get a rust preventer, and its UV stable.
 
Goes without saying, but when you spray any paint, and especially paints like POR 15, use a respirator, even if you spray outside...
 
Goes without saying, but when you spray any paint, and especially paints like POR 15, use a respirator, even if you spray outside...

good call. i always do. i have a 3m that i picked up from the auto paint store.
 
good call. i always do. i have a 3m that i picked up from the auto paint store.

Here is mine. Eastwood rust encapsulator, frame coating and chassis paint

20180613_130454.jpg
 
A few tips:

Don’t paint or prime directly over a rusty, dirty, oily, or smooth surface. All paints adhere better with a suitable surface profile.

Use a suitable primer. A real epoxy is preferable.

Don’t use a rust encapsulator if there’s no rust.

Don’t use a self etching primer without applying a surfacer primer between it and the topcoat. You don’t want to paint directly over an etching primer.
 
A few tips:

Don’t paint or prime directly over a rusty, dirty, oily, or smooth surface. All paints adhere better with a suitable surface profile.

Use a suitable primer. A real epoxy is preferable.

Don’t use a rust encapsulator if there’s no rust.

Don’t use a self etching primer without applying a surfacer primer between it and the topcoat. You don’t want to paint directly over an etching primer.

Thank you. That is exactly what I am thinking. There is no rust on the rear but just some old paint that I will remove. Once its bare metal, I will use an 80grit sand paper to give the paint someting to bite onto. Here is my plan...

- remove all old paint and bring to bare metal
- clean up with soap and water and then grease and wax remover
- lay down some SEM Self Etch ( I already have a can)
- lay down SEM High Build Primer ( I already have a can)
- scuff the surface with either 400 grit or a red scotch brite pad
- top coat with 2K Hot Rod Black - SprayMax
 
One more thing: most people who love Eastwood products haven’t used too many medium to high end automotive finishes. Proceed the Eastwood route with caution. It sure beats a can of Rustoleum or Krylon, but it’s not what a lot of people think it is.
 
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So if you do use a rust encapsulator/converter what’s the best primer and/or top coat (medium to high end automotive finish)?
 
So if you do use a rust encapsulator/converter what’s the best primer and/or top coat (medium to high end automotive finish)?


None. It would be a waste of money to use high end finishes over an encapsulator. You could just use a low-mid grade epoxy and whatever paint you’d like over that. I wouldn’t waste the money on high end paints over it.
 

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