Rear e locker. Im a little bummed out (1 Viewer)

[AcroSteve]

I've been searching and searching, and can't find a video for rebuilding the rear locker on my 94. Heck, I can't even find a video that shows my model, let alone the internals.

There's no shortage information for the style that's on the front.

I didn't mark anything when I took it apart, thinking there would be a video somewhere.
I'm hoping to find some assistance for timing the switches/gears.

Anyone throw me a bone?

Thanks

 

[cruzinfj1]

Locker Actuator Rebuild Service?

Is there anyone offering this? Send them the actuator and receive it back cleaned, serviced and rebuilt?

forum.ih8mud.com

I know Ive seen threads on here when I was having issues with mine. Sorry I dont have a direct link. I ended up just buying a new one from Rockauto. They had a pretty good price and I had a discount code....

 

[AcroSteve]

I've got mine working, but wanted to eliminate some uncertainty with the relationship of the actuation length to the switch positions.

 

[Godwin]

When I installed a rebuilt actuator I tried to set the rod depth but once installed I had to pull the cover and adjust the rod depth by moving it by a tooth or two. Wasn't difficult, just a matter of actuating the locker, popping the cover, and moving the rod. When I did this I did not have the bolt through the dog clutch fork. Once I had the rod set properly did I bolt together the rod and clutch fork.

 

[ERG80]

For future searches, I just resealed and regreased my locker motors. I removed the locker motors with the axles in the locked position.

I followed the fsm for the front.

Rear: the rod for the rear locker motor (rod) was sticking out of the housing 73mm when removed. The internal springs were orientated like below.
ETA: I was able to bolt the motor to the rear diff and the bench test was a success. It locks and unlocks without issue using these measurements.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, the 1994 FSM doesn't have a description of the unit repair of the differential lock. Testing of the entire system and each component, plus removal and installation (SA-136 to SA-149), yes, but not repair. Ditto the '95 FSM (SA-98 to SA-111).

 

[AcroSteve]

For future searches, I just resealed and regreased my locker motors. I removed the locker motors with the axles in the locked position.
I followed the fsm for the front.
Rear: the rod for the rear locker motor was sticking out of the housing 73mm when removed. The internal springs were orientated like below. The lockers were working slowly when I pulled them. I haven’t tested them resealed yet.

View attachment 3433341

That was helpful. As you mentioned, the internals in your photo are in the locked position. When reading the internal switches, it reads locked in just a rather narrow arc around the position in your photo. The unlocked contact is made everywhere else.

I think if got my actuator together right, but I don't have it on the diff yet.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Does this help:

 

[ERG80]

Does this help:

This matches my expirience.
*big sigh of relief*

Now where’s the front video?

 

[logicbyondreaso]

This matches my expirience.
*big sigh of relief*

Now where’s the front video?

I can make a front video... just need to get a locker on the work bench.

 

[AcroSteve]

Does this help:

Perfect! I don't quite understand why I never found that one before.

 

[AcroSteve]

I'll give an update on my plans for operating the lockers.

This is for my FJ140 project. So, I'm abandoning the original operation method that was in the tripple locked FJ80 chassis. But I did disect the harness and have the original wires and connectors. I want to operate each locker independently and the oem transfer case isn't in use.

I've got a couple of switches from Trail Gear.

I was using the guide from offroad.com, which pretty much details everything in part 1 and 2

Biopsy of a Toyota e-Locker Swap

Part 1: Finding a Factory e-Locker for the Third-Gen 4Runner

www.off-road.com

Biopsy of a Toyota e-Locker Swap, Part 2

Part 2: Wiring the Factory e-Locker for the Third-Gen Toyota 4Runner

www.off-road.com

There's a diagram on how the locker switches operate the lockers while using the internal switches in the lockers and the shift fork switch.

The wires in the original harness for the locker motor look to be about 14 gage. While the wires for the switched is much smaller, at about 18 gage, I think. Well, operating the motor with the switch as shown in that diagram will result in the full motor current being carried through the switches by the smaller wires too. Not good.

So I decided to add a couple of relays. Looking through ebay and I settled on reversing relays rated at 25 amps. I think the original use for them is for window motors. At just a couple of bucks each, it's with a shot.

I'll report more when I get the relays...

 

[mudgudgeon]

I built my own locker control system using relays.
After building mine, I read several posts about guys running without relays.

I don't think the lockers draw a lot of current, and it's only for a few seconds.

The oem locker control ECU uses relays too.

They are very small. Nowhere near as big as a typical automotive relay. I found comparable relays in an electronics store years after building my controller.

I think if i were to do the same again, I'd either delete the relays, or make a printed circuit board with compact relays soldered on a board.

There's other threads, but this one has some good info, although a lot of pics are gone

Thread 'elocker wiring and switches' elocker wiring and switches - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/elocker-wiring-and-switches.204094/

 

[AcroSteve]

Finally back together. And I'll do this post for others who might benefit.

I see what you guys mentioned about having it in the diff for final assy. And doing it in the locked position helps to hold the fork and sliding gear in place.
Here's a pic I took.

If you notice the spring is slightly compressed. I have it set so the locked contact opens after that slight bit of extra travel. To insure the sliding gear stays in place afainst the diff. I'm not sure quite yet if that will be an issue, but it's just a matter of backing it off one tooth.

Looking at that pic, the gear rotates clockwise to unlock

The continuity between the white/black ground wire and the green/black wire opens when its locked. Not sure if had mentioned that correctly before.