Yeah, and what are you going to do, after lunch! 
I can't wait to see the finished product. Your doors are turning out really nice.
I can't wait to see the finished product. Your doors are turning out really nice.
rear body mounts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter xtiaan2000
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #482
Getting closer
- Thread starter
- #483
After sandblasting the door jam I found 4 or 5 cracks around the hinge area. Looked like the ones we are all familiar with on the doors. I am beginning to more fully understand why my doors would RATTLE.
Although the jams look killer with the primer, in the right light you can see all sorts of stuff that makes me frown. I guess that I have to do some more sanding.
Today as I was sandblasting I had to keep repeating "door latch project not a paint job."door latch project not a paint job."door latch project not a paint job." It is so addictive to see that just sandblasted grey metal. It holds so much promise.
Although the jams look killer with the primer, in the right light you can see all sorts of stuff that makes me frown. I guess that I have to do some more sanding.
Today as I was sandblasting I had to keep repeating "door latch project not a paint job."door latch project not a paint job."door latch project not a paint job." It is so addictive to see that just sandblasted grey metal. It holds so much promise.
- Thread starter
- #484
Think I have got the linkage done. Gonna hang the doors in two days once the paint is dry. Can't wait to see if this works.
- Thread starter
- #485
So I finishing the painting on the rear doors. I have the garage door up and have this sheet over the painted white bottom half. I am happy with it! I have masked it all off and have started painting the window frame. First coat down, wait 15mins and the paint again. Am on the last coat, 4 in, and a breeze sweeps in lifts the sheet up and into my freshly painted surface.
At this point I just laugh. That's two days to wait to dry. Then have to resand and paint again, and wait two three days to tatally dry.
I guess it really dosn't matter. I have sent all the hinge bolts and washers in to get basted and the a black zinc coating on them. Have not gotten them back yet. Patience.
At this point I just laugh. That's two days to wait to dry. Then have to resand and paint again, and wait two three days to tatally dry.
I guess it really dosn't matter. I have sent all the hinge bolts and washers in to get basted and the a black zinc coating on them. Have not gotten them back yet. Patience.
- Thread starter
- #486
Well got some stuff done.
Hung all the doors so that they worked with the new latches. How do you all do it- the paint was sooooo sexy(at least to me) and now there at least 4 or five spots that have been nicked and scrapped. It was almost impossible to do without the gouges. I guess that will be one of the button-up parts of the project.
The latch linkages turned out cool. They all work. I ended up using a sleeve type deal that would allow the posts to self adjust. The stroke of the Toyota part was longer than the stroke of the bear claw part. First cut out the star wheel and outside star latch and housing, weld to the bear jaw and then... pics
The 4th pic is the front which had a lot more room to work in, while the rest were the rear which was more tight.
Now the fronts seem to have fit in and all the interior door linkages worked simply. Just hooked them right in. The rear will require me to shorten. Measuring will be required. Not my strong suit.
Hung all the doors so that they worked with the new latches. How do you all do it- the paint was sooooo sexy(at least to me) and now there at least 4 or five spots that have been nicked and scrapped. It was almost impossible to do without the gouges. I guess that will be one of the button-up parts of the project.
The latch linkages turned out cool. They all work. I ended up using a sleeve type deal that would allow the posts to self adjust. The stroke of the Toyota part was longer than the stroke of the bear claw part. First cut out the star wheel and outside star latch and housing, weld to the bear jaw and then... pics
The 4th pic is the front which had a lot more room to work in, while the rest were the rear which was more tight.
Now the fronts seem to have fit in and all the interior door linkages worked simply. Just hooked them right in. The rear will require me to shorten. Measuring will be required. Not my strong suit.
Xtiaan2000,
You're sailing in uncharted waters, that's for sure. Good Job! You're right about the paint chips, the tail gate has me worried.
You're sailing in uncharted waters, that's for sure. Good Job! You're right about the paint chips, the tail gate has me worried.
- Thread starter
- #488
Well, I started to do the install today in the 95 plus heat and quickly realized that I was not yet quite the man to get it done. It is quite complex
-felt has to be in for the up and down window
-up and down window has to be in (how to get the felt in with the moving window in- I don't know)
-fixed window needs to be in place
-dividing bar needs to be in place ( all three bolts need to be in down below)
-two screws need to be in place for the dividing bar.
Fears- tear that million dollar rubber, gouge the paint that you just spent much time making sexy, break the glass (GOD FORBID!)
A number of people have suggested that a pro window guy needs to do it. I am definitely leaning that way. Can't get that going until I get the new rubber. There is a right and a left side to the fixed rubber. It seems that I have two of the same side.
So I can't finish until I get that squared away, but SLO definitely has the goods with that rubber!
-felt has to be in for the up and down window
-up and down window has to be in (how to get the felt in with the moving window in- I don't know)
-fixed window needs to be in place
-dividing bar needs to be in place ( all three bolts need to be in down below)
-two screws need to be in place for the dividing bar.
Fears- tear that million dollar rubber, gouge the paint that you just spent much time making sexy, break the glass (GOD FORBID!)
A number of people have suggested that a pro window guy needs to do it. I am definitely leaning that way. Can't get that going until I get the new rubber. There is a right and a left side to the fixed rubber. It seems that I have two of the same side.
So I can't finish until I get that squared away, but SLO definitely has the goods with that rubber!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
These are a bear! I responded in more detail in the Weatherstrip thread.
- Thread starter
- #490
Done with this door project! I have some little paint fixes, but who am I really kidding with the paint. Gonna drive it around and see if anything comes up.
- Thread starter
- #491
couple poser shots
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Wow, great job! That looks like a lot of work...
- Thread starter
- #493
Yeah, I can make anything take a long time! I am pretty stoked tho.
After putting in the glass and all the other stuff in I had four doors (couple days three doors) all done and good...enough. The driverside was always the ruffest. Then it started not fully engaging the jaws of the latch. Side note- my garage has been cleaned up and tidy for a week or so- so nice, even thinking of getting a ping pong table. So after some time and wrenching I found out that it must be binding in the little arm thing that I had made.
Redesigned.
Now I am now trying to weld on a new tab, in a new orientation, and I can't get penetration on the gold colored Toyota metal. I am trying to do two tacks on a 90dergee corner. My tab is attached perpendicular to the Toyota latch metal. The weld is nice on my little piece of metal but almost balls up on the other. I tried concentrating more heat on the Toyota metal but to no avail. I was hoping for better results.
Don't get it!
Any help from the welding masters???!!!!!
Actually didn't mind seeing the tools back out- Am I Sick?
After putting in the glass and all the other stuff in I had four doors (couple days three doors) all done and good...enough. The driverside was always the ruffest. Then it started not fully engaging the jaws of the latch. Side note- my garage has been cleaned up and tidy for a week or so- so nice, even thinking of getting a ping pong table. So after some time and wrenching I found out that it must be binding in the little arm thing that I had made.
Redesigned.
Now I am now trying to weld on a new tab, in a new orientation, and I can't get penetration on the gold colored Toyota metal. I am trying to do two tacks on a 90dergee corner. My tab is attached perpendicular to the Toyota latch metal. The weld is nice on my little piece of metal but almost balls up on the other. I tried concentrating more heat on the Toyota metal but to no avail. I was hoping for better results.
Don't get it!
Any help from the welding masters???!!!!!
Actually didn't mind seeing the tools back out- Am I Sick?
- Thread starter
- #494
Welding buddy got the tig welder out and I am back on task.
You ready to test if they rattle on the trail?
- Thread starter
- #496
Yeah. When you here we ll blast. Any trails in mind? Hear there is some out towards Texas canyon
Had some fun exploring Rowher Flats with @xtiaan2000. It was great to see and test the trail worthiness of his 55. I learned quite a bit about driving though I had nothing to do with the driving either days.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Nice Pig! 70 series turn signals, rocker armor of some kind, and custom cut quarters...
Great pictures, man. The wagon looks right at home, on the trail. If that's the " Flats " what's the hills look like?
- Thread starter
- #500
Thanks. I'v got a cooler video but cant seem to get it from off my phone onto this page. Also saw some footage of Pighead getting after it on some crazy trail. It looked at one point as if he was going to tumble head over heels backwards down the trail- he made it. WOW!
