rear body mounts (9 Viewers)

[xtiaan2000]

Also did some finishing work around the latch area.

Pablo-the stricker is tacked in the place where it should work. At least it works as is now. I will make sure before but I plan to box the area in after everything is refit. You know I will take pics for sure.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Read a thing back and, Lambcrusher, the turn radius is reduced. Kinda bummed, but not really. The turn radius was always something that I was proud of because it was so amazing, but the power steering is so cool. Its a game changer. I chose the Scout box because from what I polled if I were to go bigger in the wheel set up I heard that was the one to get. Plus Pighead has that set up.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Thanks alot, but really

"I'd be way out of my comfort zone, with that job."


Come on Scrtapdaddy

 

[xtiaan2000]

Too Funny!!! Here's where I am at- Bear Jaw - sorry I mean Bear Claw.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Read a thing back and, Lambcrusher, the turn radius is reduced. Kinda bummed, but not really. The turn radius was always something that I was proud of because it was so amazing, but the power steering is so cool. Its a game changer. I chose the Scout box because from what I polled if I were to go bigger in the wheel set up I heard that was the one to get. Plus Pighead has that set up.

all the rock stars of cruisers agree about a scout box. to bad it has diminished radius, but I agree that even that would be better than stock. threw my back about a month ago trying to show off for a u turn...

 

[xtiaan2000]

Got one of the door's hinge areas welded and ground down. Took off the door rubber channel and found supper rust. I am glad I took them off, when I get the doors sandblasted I won't ever think 'gosh, I wish that I had done that.'

 

[xtiaan2000]

Lambcrusher,
You had mentioned some door limiters or stops. What were you thinking would be a good way to go on that. I figured that the hinges should be able to manage that, but if you had an additional idea I am all ears.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Lambcrusher,
You had mentioned some door limiters or stops. What were you thinking would be a good way to go on that. I figured that the hinges should be able to manage that, but if you had an additional idea I am all ears.

not limiters but cushion pads that put a bit of push against the inside of the door when it is closed...I was thinking one at the top of the door just below the upper doorline and one at the bottom just above the bottom of the door- much like hood bumpers...idea being to keep the door held fast in the closed position; eliminates play that might be there if just the latch were holding it INWARD by adding something to apply pressure OUTWARDS at the same time. if there is no where for the door to bounce, then it will not do so, and therefore last longer and keep quieter...does that make sense or am I spittin jibbery?


great work on the bear claws- I must admit that me being chicken was what really got me sidetracked

 

[PabloCruise]

not limiters but cushion pads that put a bit of push against the inside of the door when it is closed...I was thinking one at the top of the door just below the upper doorline and one at the bottom just above the bottom of the door- much like hood bumpers...idea being to keep the door held fast in the closed position; eliminates play that might be there if just the latch were holding it INWARD by adding something to apply pressure OUTWARDS at the same time. if there is no where for the door to bounce, then it will not do so, and therefore last longer and keep quieter...does that make sense or am I spittin jibbery?


great work on the bear claws- I must admit that me being chicken was what really got me sidetracked

Wouldn't new weatherstripping do this outward pushing you speak of?

 

[xtiaan2000]

Well I got this from SOR and I guess that I will have to fab something that will work.


Unless someone out there has an old ratty door that they could cut the aft window channel out of. I have posted under two different titles in the classified to try and get some bites, to no avail.


I had put off the bear claw thing forever, as well, due to my fear of the job. Sounds like I am back in high school putting off that paper that I should have started last week. But I have found out that it was not that bad for a person with little car skills! It was the linkages that feared me the most.


I was imagining that the rubber that I have would be enough to give it that slight outward pressure. And those bear claw things work pretty tight as well, just on their own!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Wouldn't new weatherstripping do this outward pushing you speak of?

yeah I keep forgetting how fat that bulb is on that trimseal stuff...I am using just a welt on the door opening and the rubber on the door; fagehtabbatit} my model varies...carryon

 

[xtiaan2000]

yuck

 

[diversified]

Urethaned paintable sealer. Not as trowelable as less expensive products, but won't ever crack or shrink. Far superior.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

 

[diversified]

"Uretane"

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

 

[diversified]

Jeez, one more time - URETHANE

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

 

[xtiaan2000]

I was thinking just throw some Por 15 on it and be done. Of course sandblast the door and fix the outside skin first. What's the skinny on this Urethane stuff?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I found the window trax...pm me your addy

 

[xtiaan2000]

Oh yeah! Nice!

 

[xtiaan2000]

Small steps everyday and it should get done...right?

Got'em blasted and I worked on the corners that were kinda like swiss cheese. It is really cool how you can just cut a little out: patch it, and grind it and it looks cool.

Next I'm gonna por 15 the insides.

Starting to think about making the sqeegy and felts work in the top of the windows. I have seen some of you cut the felt and drill a little hole to slide the fastener in from the front. Sound right?

 

[xtiaan2000]

Grinding
Ready for the bondo magic or skimmmmm.