Real time help: stranded in grand junction, CO

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

No resistor on igniter:

IMG_6765.jpeg
 
The coil can fail with turn to turn shorts or it can just open up. It will change as it heats up. You can get a good spark testing it with an open plug but the spark will be weak when under compression. My old JD 140 with the 1 cylinder Kohler goes thru a coil about every 10 years, due to vibration I think since it is mounted to the engine. It will stumble like it is running out of gas when they fail. The first time I spent a few hours troubleshooting the fuel system before I changed the coil with a spare. It had good spark with the plug resting on the head.
I wonder if a coil would test good when cold, but bad when hot…
 
Is all that electrical original to the rig?
 
Is all that electrical original to the rig?

I am trying to figure out if what is on there is correct? There is no external ballast resistor on the coil, just the ignitor pictured above.
From these threads, I might perhaps have a resistor wire in place from the ign switch to the positive (+) terminal at the coil - I need to measure.
Also, what ignitor is that? I see earlier looking ones, and the 60 ones look silver with fins?

I have been reading in here:
 
Last edited:
Agree. Plus, chicks dig dudes who know about coils.
Here we go:
 
Here is the diagram and schematic for the small-cap, electronic distributor for 1978 MY:

View attachment 3613093
I keep trying to move away from this thread, but looking at this scan from the FSM got me thinking - does the ignitor take a signal from the dizzy and then pulse signals to the coil to trigger spark?
 
Yep, suppose to be a stronger controled spark is my guess.

On your readings, you get 1.1 ohms on your primary and 13.48 k ohms on your secondary. That don't sound right if your the manual is correct to you fj40. It says primary should be: 2.6 - 4 ohms and the primary should be 6 - 9 K ohms. Almost looks like you have a good coil but the wrong application.....but I need more info before I can say that. Can you still see the part on the coil. I try getting the oem ones.

On a different note, I have seen coils stop working entirely, easy to troubleshoot. I have seen one where it only worked when the engine was cold and fail 20 minutes after it warned up. Have also seen bad wires cause it to back fire. Other times make it look like the rpms go down causing the engine to bog down and not go faster than 45 mph and all of sudden correct it self. And that was one sparkplug wire doing that.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom