'77 FJ40 - Ignition Coil replacement? (1 Viewer)

GA Architect

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I would like to replace the aftermarket ignition coil on my '77 FJ40 with a Toyota OEM coil. I called C-Dan and understand that the OEM coil #90919-02077 is discontinued. I'd like to stick with OEM parts, but if you can't get them, well, you know............ Has any other '77 owners run across this situation, and what was your solution?

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My solution was to just go with a NAPA coil- not their $80 epoxy-potted one, but the next level down (~$40). I'm running it with the resistor but not the ignitor right now because I think my 8/76 ignitor is possibly dead or misbehaving. Currently running great as a traditional points ignition with the small "non-USA" vac advance distributor that TPI sells. I don't remember, I might have a little adapter bracket that holds the coil in place, so maybe check diameter if you want it to fit in the original ignitor bracket.

Coils aren't that sophisticated - after I fried my last one by accidentally hooking it up wrong (after everything had been in pieces for years) I put on the one that was original to the truck ('76). It's dented, you can hear the oil sloshing around inside, and it works. It's the spare that I carry.

76t
 
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In terms of simplicity, I like getting rid of the external resistor and the external ignitor.
In my vehicle, I had a points only system with no ignitor. So I got a pertronix ignitor to replace the points and got a 12v toyota coil. So from the outside it looks entirely stock.
An alternative that I'd consider if I had your vehicle is to get a trollhole electronic distributor and a 12v coil. Remove the factory igniter and resistor. It's a tradeoff between reliability, looking stock, and being stock.
 
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I had the same problem with my 6/77 FJ40. I was lucky, there was a fellow outside Tucson that had a huge amount of FJ40's he parted out and I was able to buy one. After buying it I realized mine was good and I didn't need the other one however I carry it with me just in case I ever need it. If you look around you should be able to fine a good used one.
 
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I use the napa one and it works fine. It's diameter was a little small for the bracket but that was easy to fix. I have a spare in my possibles box just in case but haven't needed it so far.
 
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My solution was to just go with a NAPA coil- not their $80 epoxy-potted one, but the next level down (~$40). I'm running it with the resistor but not the ignitor right now because I think my 8/76 ignitor is possibly dead or misbehaving. Currently running great as a traditional points ignition with the small "non-USA" vac advance distributor that TPI sells.

76t

You don't want to run a normal 12V coil with an external ballast resistor because then the spark voltage may be too low to be reliable under all conditions. The ignitor must get full battery voltage, so it needs to be connected to the key side of the ballast resistor and not the coil side.

The only point of the ballast resistor is to improve cold weather starts by allowing the use of a low voltage coil (6V) when the battery voltage drops to 6-8 volts during engine cranking in cold weather. If you don't live in a cold climate, this feature is not of much use to you.

There is some confusion in the labels on the coil. The ballast resistor type will usually say External Resistor Required, while the non resistor type will just say 12V. Unfortunately, this is not always the case and the labels can be worn off. The external resistor type (which is really a 6V coil) will have a primary resistance of about 1 ohm while the regular 12V coil will be more like 2 ohms.
 
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Pin Head: correct, the NAPA coil says "use with resistor" or similar on the outside, and that's about the resistance that I measured.
 

GA Architect

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Thanks for everyone's response. I'll check with SOR and other used parts locations to try and find the original part, 90919-02077.

Noted: When I decide to install my TH electronic Dizzy, I'll install a Toyota 90919-02015 12V coil that has the internal resistor. Thus, I'll do away with the igniter and ballast resistor.
 
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Just to be pedantic: The 12V coil does not nave an internal "resistor" per se. It has twice as many primary windings that doubles the resistance compared to the 6V coil.
 

thorslc1977

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Who is TPI
My solution was to just go with a NAPA coil- not their $80 epoxy-potted one, but the next level down (~$40). I'm running it with the resistor but not the ignitor right now because I think my 8/76 ignitor is possibly dead or misbehaving. Currently running great as a traditional points ignition with the small "non-USA" vac advance distributor that TPI sells. I don't remember, I might have a little adapter bracket that holds the coil in place, so maybe check diameter if you want it to fit in the original ignitor bracket.

Coils aren't that sophisticated - after I fried my last one by accidentally hooking it up wrong (after everything had been in pieces for years) I put on the one that was original to the truck ('76). It's dented, you can hear the oil sloshing around inside, and it works. It's the spare that I carry.

76t
?
 

FJ40Jim

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Try the 90919-02083 for 78-80 2F. It is also for resistor use, slightly smaller in OD, but otherwise functions identical.
 

GA Architect

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Try the 90919-02083 for 78-80 2F. It is also for resistor use, slightly smaller in OD, but otherwise functions identical.
Jim,
Thank you for the information. I have a Coil, part #90919-02077 coming from SOR. I'll be sure to note the 90919-02083 should the 02077 part go out.
 
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myquestoyota

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My 77 had an ACCEL coil on it when I got it, hooked through the ballast resistor. When I installed my TH electronic dizzy I also an the positive lead through the resistor but only because that is the way it was. Works fine but I'm not 100% it is "correct" but usually for me working fine is where I stop. That reminds me, I owe GA a picture.
 
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I have a 9/77 build ca fj40 original. It has the oem elec ignition with vacuum retard distributor. Any difference? Still running original coil! Tick, tick, tick...
 

FJ40Jim

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The stock '78MY CA dissy canister has 2 vac ports: one advance, one retard.

It uses the 90919-02083 coil.

Coils last forever, or until the oil leaks out.
 
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You don't want to run a normal 12V coil with an external ballast resistor because then the spark voltage may be too low to be reliable under all conditions. The ignitor must get full battery voltage, so it needs to be connected to the key side of the ballast resistor and not the coil side.

The only point of the ballast resistor is to improve cold weather starts by allowing the use of a low voltage coil (6V) when the battery voltage drops to 6-8 volts during engine cranking in cold weather. If you don't live in a cold climate, this feature is not of much use to you.

There is some confusion in the labels on the coil. The ballast resistor type will usually say External Resistor Required, while the non resistor type will just say 12V. Unfortunately, this is not always the case and the labels can be worn off. The external resistor type (which is really a 6V coil) will have a primary resistance of about 1 ohm while the regular 12V coil will be more like 2 ohms.

Interesting discussion. I replaced my OEM coil with a Taylor Vertex from Summit Racing. They sent me a Mallory resistor which I use with my MAF provided simple points distributor. All works well. Since I certainly never have any cold weather issues down here I am curious about whether or not I need the ballast resistor. I installed it because, as another fellow pointed out, the coil says I should.

Brand:Taylor Cable

Manufacturer's Part Number:718222

Part Type:Ignition Coils

Product Line:Taylor Replacement Canister Coils

Summit Racing Part Number:TAY-718222

UPC:088197016547

Coil Wire Attachment:Female/Socket

Coil Style:Canister

Primary Resistance:0.700 ohms

Coil Internal Construction:Epoxy

Coil Color:Black

Maximum Voltage:45,000 V

Turns Ratio:100:1

Secondary Resistance:4.70K ohms

Inductance:8.0 mH

Peak Current:140 mA

Spark Duration:350 uS

Mounting Bracket Included:No

Coil Wire Included:No

Ballast Resistor Included:No

Coil Shape:Round

Quantity:Sold individually.

Notes:For extreme service, off-road use.

This coil, epoxy filled, is like $40.
 
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If you have a ballast type coil, you need a ballast resistor. It is that simple.

If it doesn't say "ballast resistor", the primary resistance of .7 ohm indicates that it is a ballast resistor type.
 
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As Mr. Head said above, resistor or no resistor is determined by the coil - the system needs a certain resistance to avoid being overheated. The resistor bypass circuit from the starter, on the other hand, is what's in place for cold starts. It gets eliminated with a gear reduction starter, presumably because the starter has more oomph and leaves more capacity unused in the system.
 
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I have never had to mess with a ballast resistor in my life, and that covers a lot of cars and motorcycles. The advertisement on Summit Racing, down below the ad, said it came with a resistor. When it arrived in Ecuador, no resistor. Summit was good enough to direct me to the Mallory unit and sent it to my daughter free shipping anyway. The ad for the coil says only that if you have a points type distributor you need the resistor. This would indicate if you were running an HEI distributor the resistor would not be required. In the attached picture you can hardly make out the resistor sitting behind the coil. The pink wire goes to it. The "feed" comes from the starter. The AutoWire Hyw 15 instructions showed more starter connections than my starter has. I purchased a diode and holder from Summit to comply with telephone instructions from American AutoWire, however, it was not a good match. The diode fits the holder but is too tall for the holder cover to close, so I skipped it. 76 Technician is saying that the gear reduction starter does away with this need. I'm a little confused. Currently my rig is in the shop for an engine change from my F to a 1983 FJ60 installed 2F. The motor came complete with carburetor, alternator and starter. The plug on the alternator looks the same, just rotated 90*. The starter is the gear reduction unit. These items are NOT being installed with the engine change and I will use my old F stuff until all is sorted out. I did some research on coils and ran across and interesting piece from an old Ford group forum where the fellow went into all sorts of history on coils and ultimately it came down to four coils have been used dating to about 1928. They are 6 & 12 Volt and internal or external resistor. Also I note that Taylor Vertex is one of the largest manufacturers and I believe that many of the coil options you see available are manufactured by them and re-branded as Blaster, Flame Thrower, etc. Thanks for your input. I'm really curious to hear what you have to say about the gear reduction starter.

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