Rattle Can Paint Job

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rusty_tlc said:
Krylon Hunter Green, about six or seven cans. I didn't even wash it first. :hillbilly:
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Man you must be Earl Schibe reincarnated, that looks great!

A tip from an old friend who restores cars, soak the cans in warm water or keep in a warm place before using them. It's amazing how much better they work.

My only bad rattle can experince was based around a sudded drop in temperature from the 60's to the low 40's a few hours after I painted, the fawking paint never hardened! Months later it was still tacky in some places. Lesson learned the hard way.

-Stumbaugh
 
I rattle canned my FJ55. It is still being put back togther but here are some photos. I ordered automotive paint, it was about $16 dollars a can, but it sprayed well and looks good. I had never painted anything before and I would do it a little differently if I were to do it again. It is hard to paint large surfaces and keep the work area clean.

I know that everyone is probably tired of seeing these pictures, but I never get tired of them.
http://homepage.mac.com/ryanandjessaka/PhotoAlbum1.html

Ryan.
 
scottryana said:
I rattle canned my FJ55. It is still being put back togther but here are some photos. I ordered automotive paint, it was about $16 dollars a can, but it sprayed well and looks good. I had never painted anything before and I would do it a little differently if I were to do it again. It is hard to paint large surfaces and keep the work area clean.

I know that everyone is probably tired of seeing these pictures, but I never get tired of them.
http://homepage.mac.com/ryanandjessaka/PhotoAlbum1.html

Ryan.
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Nope, never tired of seeing them!

I ordered the expensive stuff, too. I spent all of two hours prepping the surface, another couple hours masking everything. The next morning I sprayed down my gravel alleyway, pulled the piggie out and started spraying. I did two rounds, it was getting warm, so I stopped. Should have done three, but weather was not permitting... My son and I stripped off the tape and newspaper, and: voila! New truck!
 
cxh10 said:
Ok so I have an 82' with a tub that is completely shot so obviously I'm not wanting to spend a lot of money on a paintjob when I plan on ripping the entire tub off within a year or two. I thought I'd go the Macco route but they wanted 500 just to paint the outside and that was the cruddy paintjob. I was wondering what kind of an experience people have had with a cheap rattle can job. How time consuming is it and what kind of results did you get? Keep in mind I'm not expecting or looking for anything that great (mine is currently about 5 colors in different areas) just something to get me by, look decent, and cover up the metal so the parts I'm saving don't get any worse. Some pictures would be great as well. Thanks a lot.


-Charles
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Ok I think since we have a compressor and a spray gun I'm gonna try masking off a section of my 3 car garage (couldn't possibly empty it all) and spraying it in there like one person suggested. Any specific advice on doing it this way? Any more good advice on a quality prep work before painting? Thanks for all the great information and pictures.
 
cxh10 said:
Ok I think since we have a compressor and a spray gun I'm gonna try masking off a section of my 3 car garage (couldn't possibly empty it all) and spraying it in there like one person suggested. Any specific advice on doing it this way? Any more good advice on a quality prep work before painting? Thanks for all the great information and pictures.
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good idea for section off a piece of your garage .get all of dust out .i used to water down the floor and ceiling if i was unsure out the dust .it really helps .if this is your first time spraying wait a couple of minutes in between coats.and hope all your prepwork is in good shape,oh yea keep the water out of your compresser:D .trial and error freind it takes years of practice to get a perfect paint job.one thing you may want to keep in mind while your spraying is keep your spray pattern down to 50 %.anotherwards only spray 50%of what you just coverd and they other half fresh if that makes any sense at all.good luck
 
rattle can paint jobs can work great and like any paint job will depend heavily on how you prep before paint. Granted it's never going to look like a good $5K paint job done professionally but it can look darn good.

I've done rattle can jobs on a few trucks. I thinks its a good idea to sand the entire surface to be painted and then clean it with a good tack cloth to make sure all the dust is removed. Then like with everything else, several thin coats works better than fewer heavy coats. If you want to go for a really nice finish, you can wet sand and spray a few coats of clear coat, but it sounds like that may be more than you're after.
 
cxh10 said:
Ok I think since we have a compressor and a spray gun I'm gonna try masking off a section of my 3 car garage (couldn't possibly empty it all) and spraying it in there like one person suggested. Any specific advice on doing it this way? Any more good advice on a quality prep work before painting? Thanks for all the great information and pictures.
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If your garage is attached to you house, you'd be better off building something outdoors. The smell of the paint will linger in your house for ever. It's also highly toxic if you use the isocianide activator. I know two guys who got really sick from painting cars - one a professional car painted who wound up on disability and the other a hobbyst who just got really sick for a while, both from Iso exposure. I've never had a reaction to it, but I always wear a tyvec suit and a new respirator. Both of those guys did also and both still had reactions, I guess it varies. The guy who was a custom painted did it for years before it made him sick but the hobby guy got sick from one exposure.

Run a long tie down between two trees and throw think plastic over it.

Setup a few fans to blow air in, If you use the fans to pull the air out there is a fire risk as the motors in the fan can ignite the fumes (body shops use special fans for this).

I've done all this and it's a huge pain in the ass. Just do the prep and have a body guy shoot it, I usually get a guy to do it on the side one Saturday and promise to make it as painless as possible for him. Or, just rattle can.

From: http://www.scottgrundfor.com/ideas/paint3.html

Paint Safely

When working with any paint or primer, always wear protective breathing masks with filters (charcoal) that remove chemical fumes as well as solid and dust overspray. With respect to respirator use and spraying isocyanide-cured urethanes, the use of filters with charcoal as the filtering agent is considered inadequate by OSHA since there are no indicators to advise when the filter is full of the contaminant. Since isocyanide is a cyanide, the paint industry has found it prudent to go much further with protection from emitted vapors. Full body suits, booties, rubber gloves, and air masks with a constant supply of fresh air from the compressor are essential.

Don't paint isocyanide products with anything but full protection. Isocyanide attacks the body's involuntary systems, chiefly the central nervous system. Entry is not just through the respiratory system but also through the tear ducts of the eyes and any exposed skin. Initial out-gassing or drying of urethanes is equally hazardous. Failure to use respiratory protection is akin to driving without brakes.​

That's why I rattle can my next car or have a guy shoot the paint for me.

-Stumbaugh
 
cxh10 said:
Ok I think since we have a compressor and a spray gun I'm gonna try masking off a section of my 3 car garage (couldn't possibly empty it all) and spraying it in there like one person suggested. Any specific advice on doing it this way? Any more good advice on a quality prep work before painting? Thanks for all the great information and pictures.
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Set up a box fan with a couple of high quality AC air filters to create a positive pressure inside the "spray booth". You can use a cardboard box duct taped to the fan to mount the air filters to.
This will do two things, first it will provide ventalation, second by forcing clean air in you will keep dusty air from getting in. I never did this painting a car but it works well for applying furniture finishes.
 
Follow Up

Just as a follow up I thought I'd let everyone know we ended up painting my 40 ourselves in the back drive way. All we did was throw a tarp over the fence to keep paint off it. It took about 2 to 3 hours to mask everything off good with a few people helping. Then we used a spray gun attached to a compressor and some marine grade paint about $30 bucks. It was an EXTREMELY windy day but it was our only option due to time constraints; none the less it came out GREAT. This was our first time trying this and I'm planning on doing it again with actual automotive paint this time to get an even better look and actually going inside not just the outside of the car. Glad we went with the cheap stuff the first time though for a test run because some of our bondo work on my rust bucket didn't hold up to well by the end of the year and I'm about to redo it and try to put some steel patches in this time. Only other problem we had was no time for a clear coat which I'm planning on doing this time. If you're planning on doing a tub replacement or you aren't planning on going restoration quality I would DEFINATELY recommend doing it yourself; if two amatuers like us can do it I'm sure you can too and we were even rushed. Take the time to wash it and do a little sanding and you'll be happy with the results. Especially since you do all the other work to your car anyways have some satisfaction in knowing it looks the way it does because you did it yourself.
 
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Scootryana,

That paint looks incredible!!!:cheers:


The link was no good. What color did you use? It looks close enough to Nebula for my needs.


Again, Great Job!!! and nice Piggie
 
Damn! That's the same Krylon paint code I use! Nice rig.





rusty_tlc said:
Krylon Hunter Green, about six or seven cans. I didn't even wash it first. :hillbilly:
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Picture 142.webp
 
6 cans of Rustolium Professional Grade on the 40 and 4 cans on the bottom half of he 80.
 
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schlaker said:
6 cans of Rustolium Professional Grade on the 40 and 4 cans on the bottom half of he 80.
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"Professional Grade?" Never heard of that. Where did you get it?
 
Hugh, Its Rustolium Professional High Performance Enamle. Comes in the taller 15 oz cans. I buy it at OSH. Only comes in about 6 colors and is intended for industrial applications.
 
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