Rad Drain Plug Assembly Question

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Pelican, Mar 14, 2018.

  1. Pelican

    Pelican

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    Hi all, I recently joined the FJ40 club. After purchasing her and driving 1500ish kms to my place of residence, I’ve discovered that there is no drain plug in the radiator. She didn’t leak, but was clogged up quite well. I have a Toyo 4 core rad (16400-49356), and understand that while Toyota still sells the plug, they do not carry the extension bolt that goes into the rad. Does anyone have the specs on that extension bolt, i.e. bolt size and thread? All I know for sure is that it is larger in size than the brass plug.

    View attachment 1653930

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  2. 78Landcruiser

    78Landcruiser

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    C43FD730-3E85-4DA7-B87B-3C91C79C789C.jpeg Welcome to the addiction, the drain extension is still available, SOR has them,
     
  3. Steamer

    Steamer SILVER Star

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    Welcome. If you're fixing clog issues don't forget the block drain located down low towards the rear below the manifolds. It's the low point of the coolant jacket and debris loves to settle there.
     
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  4. Pelican

    Pelican

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    Thanks for the welcomes, I did get the block drained.

    78Landcruiser, unfortunately I am overseas at the moment. I was hoping to be able to get the size so I can go to my local hardware store and source something that will work until I can get the proper parts. I have seen the parts diagram from SOR, but was still unclear if they are only selling the brass plug, or the extension as well. The diagram has both, but not the parts list? I may be reading it wrong.
     
  5. Steamer

    Steamer SILVER Star

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    In your pic, that fitting has pipe sealant on it so it's most likely tapered pipe thread and being a 40 it would most likely be BSPT. (british standard pipe threads) BSPT usually isn't available at the local hardware store here in the states but maybe so where you're at. Looks like 3/8" but could be 1/4". the o.d. of 3/8 pipe is 0.675 and 1/4 is 0.53.I've always had aftermarket rads so I can't say for sure.
    On my aftermarket rads I toss the plastic plug, drill it out and solder in a 3/8 x 1/4 npt brass bushing (not cast brass) Then I go with a 1/4 npt brass nipple and a cap.
     
  6. RAGINGMATT

    RAGINGMATT Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approch..... Supporting Vendor

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    Rear block plug mentioned above is the LOW point to free up if U have not .....



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  7. 73FJ40

    73FJ40 After another night of rust removal! SILVER Star

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    If you're looking for a hardware store solution, I'd recommend a 6 or 7 inch length of 3/8 BSPT (tapered threads) pipe nipple and one pipe cap.

    Brass would be best.
     
  8. 3_puppies

    3_puppies SILVER Star

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    be extremely careful about the threaded bung in the bottom of the rad. it will break free if putting too much torque on things.
     
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  9. brian

    brian SILVER Star

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    I just recently bought a new rad from mr t.
    It came with a cap, the petcock and extension.
     
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  10. rkymtnflyfisher

    rkymtnflyfisher SILVER Star

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    Best advice so far.
     
  11. Pelican

    Pelican

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    Thanks for all the advice, this place really is a goldmine of information.

    The hole in the bottom of my rad was definitely larger than 3/8...so I decided to pull it and bring it with me on my hunt for something to put in there. Turns out it takes a M16 at 1.5 pitch thread? I'm not an expert on threads, but that's what the fastener supply guy said it was.
    Anyways, I've managed to jury rig a plug (not brass) that hasn't shown any signs of leaking yet, made out of a few different pieces of hardware.
    IMG_4732.JPG fullsizeoutput_5037.jpeg

    RAGINGMATT, looks like the drain plug assembly is maybe the same size as required for my rad. I will look into it, thanks.
     
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