- Thread starter
- #141
Thanks #cruiser outfit. Now I just need to decide on the direction I’m going...
Builds Putting the rust demon at bay (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter archie73
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
So I've wanted to see the St Anthony Sand Dunes ever since I moved out here. It’s kinda opposite to the mountains where we live, but they’re only an hour away. Without a vehicle worthy of going, I haven't made the time to see them. I suppose the 1987 4Runner would of done ok, but I guess I never made the time. I'm not sure the tired four banger would have gotten the 31's spinning fast enough anyway.
This brings us to today:
I suckered my Moab wheeling buddies into joining me with the kids. We ran around the dunes and the kids frolicked in the sand. The cruiser turned into a snowboard lift. They’d snowboard down the face and I’d pick them up for another lap. We grilled out and played a little more.
Climbing the dunes was a good test of the build. I have enough power to make it up, but not enough to get stupid. I think that maybe mission accomplished. I was able to climb and descend without to much drama, but ruts (and the bouncing that came with them) stopped me from making it to the top eventually. That and pulling the shifter cane out of the transmission mission! That was interesting but a good lesson- don’t hold the shifter when your climbing a dune!!
All in all it was a great ending to the season. As I’ve mentioned before: the snow and magchloride is coming, so the cruiser needs to hibernate. This will lead to some sort of tear down phase. I’m still debating between capability (locker and ???) and paint (the wife’s choice). Choices are tough some times.
This brings us to today:
I suckered my Moab wheeling buddies into joining me with the kids. We ran around the dunes and the kids frolicked in the sand. The cruiser turned into a snowboard lift. They’d snowboard down the face and I’d pick them up for another lap. We grilled out and played a little more.
Climbing the dunes was a good test of the build. I have enough power to make it up, but not enough to get stupid. I think that maybe mission accomplished. I was able to climb and descend without to much drama, but ruts (and the bouncing that came with them) stopped me from making it to the top eventually. That and pulling the shifter cane out of the transmission mission! That was interesting but a good lesson- don’t hold the shifter when your climbing a dune!!
All in all it was a great ending to the season. As I’ve mentioned before: the snow and magchloride is coming, so the cruiser needs to hibernate. This will lead to some sort of tear down phase. I’m still debating between capability (locker and ???) and paint (the wife’s choice). Choices are tough some times.
- Thread starter
- #143
So I bit the bullet and bought a fj80 differential out of the local classifieds. The seller was good enough to drop it at Cruiser Outfitters and they dropped an ARB in and refreshed everything else. They also got me the driveshaft adapter put on. So now I’m trying to figure out how far down the rabbit hole I want to go on this project. While I have the shafts pulled out, I could do a rear disc conversion. My drums are working well, right now, so I’m having a hard time throwing down the $3-500 for the parts and adapters. I’d probably going to get @posers bracket and rotor. The all Toyota system is intriguing, but the need for bigger rims and the higher cost are out. I’ll change axle seals while I’m there. I’m starting to lean against the rdb upgrade, the cost is to much after the ARB cost. Can anyone think of a reason that’ll sway me to the other side?
One option you could consider is installing a fj60 axle in the back. They have a much more modern drum brake which would negate the need for rear discs. Then just install 1.5" spacers up front until you can afford a fj60 axle up front. Its a pretty simple swap in the rear. You just have to weld on some spring perches and shock mounts. You would also need to get a fj60 master cylinder.
- Thread starter
- #145
I’ve been keeping an eye out for a set of 60 axles, in case they fell into a price range that made them attractive. So far the best I’ve seen is a $2000 ‘60 an hour away- out of my radius of desire. So I’m not sure the sixty axle are in my future at the moment. (Thankfully, This is saving me money.)There’s just to many other things I want.
I understand that. The dual wheel cylinder drum brake design is pretty crappy, but if its working for you and getting you by then thats good. The ARB will be really nice to have. Sand dune pictures are cool.
- Thread starter
- #147
It’s time to get going again on this thing again. The snow has been good this winter, so the desire to get in the garage is low. I fired it up once to try and get the tundra unstuck, but the cruiser was to light...
The list from last year has not been touched:
Mechanical-
The list from last year has not been touched:
Mechanical-
- Power steering pulley is badly out of true, so I’ll need a new one. Also thinking of adding another belt to the second groove to help eliminate slippage.
- Better electrical connectors: I need some that lock together. Fan power came apart several times.
- Second battery to run the winch and compressor off would be good. Wife got me some the parts for this project for Xmas, so I need to get on this one.
- Second temp switch for the fan, so I can use low speed too
- I bought an ARB in a third member, still need to install it and the compressor.
- Sliders-I’m open to suggestions on this project. I’m thinking of incorporating the steps Aqualu included with the tub for some style points. Probably 1 1/2”-2” square tube.
- Skid plate I need and I’d like to make crossmember for the sm465 and incorporate it with a skid plate. Something like this one.
- Tire rub- I need rear bump stops for a start. I’m probably going to flip the rear springs at the same time. This will mean reshaping the wheel well.
- Storage- I need a basket or beef the rack up. Also the storage box I slapped together worked well, but I have plans on making it better(deeper and a lid and/or fold out.
- Thread starter
- #148
Winter hibernation is over. Took the it down to Moab to start out the season. No real wheeling, just shuttling the bikes and family to trailheads. The kid(7) is still not stoked on being the cruiser in off camber situations. It’ll come in time. Cruiser performed well:
The clutch master cylinder was leaking at the beginning of the trip and by the end it was worse. Brake booster hisses when pedal is pushed. I was aware of the issues last fall and picked some parts from a pick n pull. Powder was to good this winter and the garage was to cold, so no work has been done over the winter.
This weekend I worked on swapping the parts from an old early ninetys mini truck: booster and both master cylinders. The booster is an inch or so bigger than oem unit, but otherwise it boots right up.
Th
View attachment 1947303
The other reason for this swap was the old brake master caps. Whenever I climbed a steep hill or up a ledge, the old one would spill fluid. The old caps were a loose fit at best. The new one has a locking cap that hopefully will mitigate this problem.
The clutch master swap wasn’t as straight forward. I had done some internet prowling on this master and it’s it gets mixed reviews . I figured it was cheap enough to try it out- I’d just be wasting my time.
First step was to make an adapter plate from some scrap. The oem on a 73 has a triangular mounting pattern, the new one has a diagonal two bolt design. This was pretty easy, but took to long as usual. Next I realized the pushrod was the wrong length, I swapped them. A new hardline was bent into a workable shape and we were ready to bleed the system.
So I think I got the air out and I’m not getting enough motion on the clutch. I’m running a 350/sm465, so it takes a pretty long throw as I understand it. Bummer, I wasted a bunch of time on this, but I knew it was possibly going to end this way. So I bit the bullet and got a new Aisin master/slave shipped to me. I’ll put it in and stop trying to reinvent the wheel.
The clutch master cylinder was leaking at the beginning of the trip and by the end it was worse. Brake booster hisses when pedal is pushed. I was aware of the issues last fall and picked some parts from a pick n pull. Powder was to good this winter and the garage was to cold, so no work has been done over the winter.
This weekend I worked on swapping the parts from an old early ninetys mini truck: booster and both master cylinders. The booster is an inch or so bigger than oem unit, but otherwise it boots right up.
Th
The other reason for this swap was the old brake master caps. Whenever I climbed a steep hill or up a ledge, the old one would spill fluid. The old caps were a loose fit at best. The new one has a locking cap that hopefully will mitigate this problem.
The clutch master swap wasn’t as straight forward. I had done some internet prowling on this master and it’s it gets mixed reviews . I figured it was cheap enough to try it out- I’d just be wasting my time.
First step was to make an adapter plate from some scrap. The oem on a 73 has a triangular mounting pattern, the new one has a diagonal two bolt design. This was pretty easy, but took to long as usual. Next I realized the pushrod was the wrong length, I swapped them. A new hardline was bent into a workable shape and we were ready to bleed the system.
So I think I got the air out and I’m not getting enough motion on the clutch. I’m running a 350/sm465, so it takes a pretty long throw as I understand it. Bummer, I wasted a bunch of time on this, but I knew it was possibly going to end this way. So I bit the bullet and got a new Aisin master/slave shipped to me. I’ll put it in and stop trying to reinvent the wheel.
- Thread starter
- #149
Went for a test drive yesterday. Brake pedal feels way different- softer but effective. I think I’m just used to the old leaking booster, I’ll get used to it. Rear passenger side tire locks up first, so that seems to mean I need a proportioning valve( and I need to adjust the drivers side engagement). I was looking at the metric wilwood unit. Anybody use this one?
Also replaced the crooked power steering pulley with one from summit. Install was pretty straight forward, but when I fired it back up, it smoked the belt pretty hard. Tension was good and alignment seemed good. I ran out of time before I could solve this one...
Also replaced the crooked power steering pulley with one from summit. Install was pretty straight forward, but when I fired it back up, it smoked the belt pretty hard. Tension was good and alignment seemed good. I ran out of time before I could solve this one...
- Thread starter
- #150
As I mentioned earlier, the passenger rear locks up before any other tire. While I wait for the proportioning valve, I decided to find out why the drivers rear didn’t lock up. While trying to adjust the wheel cylinders from underneath, I noticed brake fluid on the tire. Off comes the drum. Both adjusters are frozen and the trailing cylinder is leaking. Everything is saturated with brake fluid. So it’s time to make choices: drums or discs
Drums-
Cheaper $40-50 for new cylinders, $35 shoes and $33 drum/wheel.
With a little luck the other wheel is ok.
Seem to stop my 35” tires well with disc upfront.
Have to be manually adjusted to be affective.
Disc
I enjoy tinkering with this thing, so I’m ok modifying stuff
Expensive- looks like $400-500 from reading threads here.
Self adjusting- yeah.
I’m pulling the axle apart for the arb install anyway.
Modern parts availability??
Any experience with the rock auto wheel cylinders and other parts? This would definitely be the cheaper method- especially if I don’t have to do the other wheel.
If I go disc, seems like @Poser is the favorite for this stuff. I have a quote from him from last time I thought about this subject. Only hang up I have with his kit is the rotors have to be machined. I’d prefer to have off the shelf replacements. Is there anyone else I should think about?
Drums-
Cheaper $40-50 for new cylinders, $35 shoes and $33 drum/wheel.
With a little luck the other wheel is ok.
Seem to stop my 35” tires well with disc upfront.
Have to be manually adjusted to be affective.
Disc
I enjoy tinkering with this thing, so I’m ok modifying stuff
Expensive- looks like $400-500 from reading threads here.
Self adjusting- yeah.
I’m pulling the axle apart for the arb install anyway.
Modern parts availability??
Any experience with the rock auto wheel cylinders and other parts? This would definitely be the cheaper method- especially if I don’t have to do the other wheel.
If I go disc, seems like @Poser is the favorite for this stuff. I have a quote from him from last time I thought about this subject. Only hang up I have with his kit is the rotors have to be machined. I’d prefer to have off the shelf replacements. Is there anyone else I should think about?
I have Poser disc conversion parts on my '76. He is very helpful and everything went in and has performed flawlessly. Used a proportional valve to dial in rear brakes. In regards to modifying the rotors, most machine shops could do the work quickly. Assuming you don't put many miles, and being on the rear with less braking force, the back rotors would last quite some time. You could always buy another set from Poser up front. The hardest part for me was making the hard lines, flaring and bending with cheap tools and no experience.
I redid my OEM rear drum brakes last year with Rock Auto parts and it all worked fine. I did learn that all 4 wheel cyls. are indeed different and that for best results, replace ALL stuff (wheel cyls. and shoes) on BOTH sides at once. I tried just doing one side, and couldn't get the rear brakes to balance (left to right) very well - my RR wheel was locking up prematurely, due to shoe friction differences (I concluded).
I also learned that unless you adjust the brakes as tightly as possible, it will seem like you can't ever get them bled and get a firm pedal. I had more 'fun' with FJ40 rear brakes than I ever had with any other drums. So, my suggestion (if you stick to drums) is to go slowly, replace many parts, go slowly, and do it right.
I also learned that unless you adjust the brakes as tightly as possible, it will seem like you can't ever get them bled and get a firm pedal. I had more 'fun' with FJ40 rear brakes than I ever had with any other drums. So, my suggestion (if you stick to drums) is to go slowly, replace many parts, go slowly, and do it right.
- Thread starter
- #153
So this fixed the clutch issue. Rock auto had a pretty descent price if anyone is looking for one. Should of gotten one in the first place, but it’s fun to try things out.
As for the rear brakes, I went with @Poser’s kit. I totaled the cost of rebuilding both sides and it wasn’t that much cheaper. Hope to tackle the ARB/rear disc project next weekend.
As for the rear brakes, I went with @Poser’s kit. I totaled the cost of rebuilding both sides and it wasn’t that much cheaper. Hope to tackle the ARB/rear disc project next weekend.
When I put rear discs on my 40 I was stunned at how I have nicer it was to drive. Takes a bit to dial in the proportioning valve.
- Thread starter
- #155
Here we go:
Table full of goodies:
I got the axle out with out to much drama, the u bolts put up the most resistance. The Milwaukee 1/2” impact may have given up the ghost trying to get them off.
After a trip to the Hotsy, I hit it with the angle grinder to get the scale off. From there I started pulling it apart. Brakes were pretty straight forward. Diff and cover studs came out all the way, which is fine I need hit them with the tap and die anyway. Damn that diff is heavy or I’m old. Once the housing was fully bare, I hit it with Naval Jelly and a coat of primer. I re-drilled the perches to move my axle back 1 1/2” as well. Tomorrow I hope to paint it and reassemble it- maybe get it in the truck...
I do have a question about the compressor for the ARB. I didn’t buy at a time when they were giving compressors away, but I do have a small Vivair unit. It’s a light duty unit, but I’ve had good luck filling the tires(~5 minutes to fill a 35”). Does anyone see an issue with using this to operate the locker?
Table full of goodies:
I got the axle out with out to much drama, the u bolts put up the most resistance. The Milwaukee 1/2” impact may have given up the ghost trying to get them off.
After a trip to the Hotsy, I hit it with the angle grinder to get the scale off. From there I started pulling it apart. Brakes were pretty straight forward. Diff and cover studs came out all the way, which is fine I need hit them with the tap and die anyway. Damn that diff is heavy or I’m old. Once the housing was fully bare, I hit it with Naval Jelly and a coat of primer. I re-drilled the perches to move my axle back 1 1/2” as well. Tomorrow I hope to paint it and reassemble it- maybe get it in the truck...
I do have a question about the compressor for the ARB. I didn’t buy at a time when they were giving compressors away, but I do have a small Vivair unit. It’s a light duty unit, but I’ve had good luck filling the tires(~5 minutes to fill a 35”). Does anyone see an issue with using this to operate the locker?
- Thread starter
- #156
So it begins. Everything got a hasty derusting and paint. This will be used off-road, so I didn’t see a need to a meticulous paint job. Threaded holes and differential studs were chased, but the cover studs were to rusted to save. I soaked them in atf over night to no avail. These will need replacements. 80 series 3rd member w/ARB went in slowly- as this was a fist for me, so I was double checking each step. I ended up using the thickest C-clips on the axles. During clean up I found a piece of the locker that I forgot to install, I think it’s a center cross pin. It looks kinda like a cross pin with a stack of washers in the middle. (After some thought, I think it must be the spacer between the axles). Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture and I can’t find it in the online parts diagrams. As good as the ARB instruction sheet is, I could of used a couple more pictures/diagrams.
@Poser brackets were next. I printed out the thread of his install, so I could follow step by step. There was a slight warp in one of the brackets that caused some misalignment of the caliper pins. ****Edit: after talking to @Poser, he informed me I had the spacers in the wrong place, once in the right place they were honky dory.**** I did get it work, but it took a little doing to get them lined up. Overall, I’m happy with the kit so far. Rotors were perfectly fit on the axle and the brackets were high quality in feel and looks. It seems the kit is complete and I like that he breaks the parts down into individual bits, so you can choose what you want. For anyone looking, rockautos shipping ended up costing $30 more in shipping than Amazon Prime.
So I was hoping to have it under the cruiser by the end of Sunday day, but it didn’t happen. A couple missed steps and some unforeseen tasks cut into the time frame. Good news is after getting new differential cover studs and and couple other small things the axle will be back under the cruiser.
Still need to before installing the axle:
Replace studs/cover
Figure out the leftover piece
Weld tombstones for soft lines
Fill with oil
Play with driver side caliper mounting, still not 100%
Set up proportioning valve
Bleed brakes
Mount compressor and solenoid
Run airlines
Do something about shock mounts after moving axle and stripping studs
Probably more stuff
@Poser brackets were next. I printed out the thread of his install, so I could follow step by step. There was a slight warp in one of the brackets that caused some misalignment of the caliper pins. ****Edit: after talking to @Poser, he informed me I had the spacers in the wrong place, once in the right place they were honky dory.**** I did get it work, but it took a little doing to get them lined up. Overall, I’m happy with the kit so far. Rotors were perfectly fit on the axle and the brackets were high quality in feel and looks. It seems the kit is complete and I like that he breaks the parts down into individual bits, so you can choose what you want. For anyone looking, rockautos shipping ended up costing $30 more in shipping than Amazon Prime.
So I was hoping to have it under the cruiser by the end of Sunday day, but it didn’t happen. A couple missed steps and some unforeseen tasks cut into the time frame. Good news is after getting new differential cover studs and and couple other small things the axle will be back under the cruiser.
Still need to before installing the axle:
Replace studs/cover
Figure out the leftover piece
Weld tombstones for soft lines
Fill with oil
Play with driver side caliper mounting, still not 100%
Set up proportioning valve
Bleed brakes
Mount compressor and solenoid
Run airlines
Do something about shock mounts after moving axle and stripping studs
Probably more stuff
Last edited:
Thats strange that the bracket is warped. Can you put it in a press and push it back flat?
- Thread starter
- #158
I’m going to try the press when I get back to it. By the time I figured it out I was out time and had to get to the movies. My only concern about using the press is if the bracket was warped when the holes were drilled/tapped. But they seem slightly misaligned as well.
This isn’t a slam on poser at all, his kit and service seem good. Things happen. The other side went well.
What about just having him send you a non-warped one?
Just curious if your Land Cruiser was in a commercial recently? I was at the gas station getting gas here in NY, and a Starbucks commercial has a Land Cruiser driving off in the distance with a blue fender. Looked like it was from a drone maybe. Next time I get gas, I will try and snap a pic.
