My fj55 started like this
And now looks like this. Rough but pretty cool.
And now looks like this. Rough but pretty cool.
Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter wngrog
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I tried a few things. Easy off oven cleaner and scotch Brite got me where I wanted to go, specifically easy off brand. A cheaper oven cleaner didn't get me results.
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Man. Incredible work. This is what it’s all about.
This sounds like something out of Pulp Fiction.
Bama4door
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My 40 was repainted at some point in its life, but the quality was not very good. You can still see bits of the factory blue paint around knobs and on parts of the body where the respray was not done well.
I really like the green, but have no idea what color it is and it would be very hard to match (to do touch ups etc).
The stock blue color is one of my favorites and I’d love to see what it looks like underneath, but I’m not sure how or if it’s even a good idea to try and tackle such a job. I would have to go through the green paint and primer to get to factory blue. Any thoughts or suggestions?
I really like the green, but have no idea what color it is and it would be very hard to match (to do touch ups etc).
The stock blue color is one of my favorites and I’d love to see what it looks like underneath, but I’m not sure how or if it’s even a good idea to try and tackle such a job. I would have to go through the green paint and primer to get to factory blue. Any thoughts or suggestions?
How long did you leave the Easy Off on?I tried a few things. Easy off oven cleaner and scotch Brite got me where I wanted to go, specifically easy off brand. A cheaper oven cleaner didn't get me results.
I experimented with a small section for a short period, like 6" x 6" and scotch brited almost immediately to see how things went. By the time I was rolling, I would spray the whole truck pretty well then start the scrub.
Then I would hit just the red paint all the way around and repeat.
The easy off has lye in it, please be careful with skin/eyes!
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Man. I love it
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That was my thinking too. Just getting the oxidation off has done wonders. Even the wife and kids are saying "Hey!" after encouraging me to get it repainted in the past. I just quote them the sage words I've leaned here; "It's only original once."
I've never really polished anything. I have access to an orbital buffer. Should I use that or better to do it by hand?
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Orbital. Get some yellow label Griots and some correction pads then follow with wax with orbital.
If you have open bare rust spots stay away from them. If you get wax in there or on the small spots if found Fluid Film does a good job of removing the dry wax in a rough spot
Looks great, what did you start with?
Not sure I understand the question; what did I start with as far as the paint condition? Or what did I start with working on it?
Pretty much the whole rig looked like that discolored section. I just washed it with soap and water and worked on it with CLR and a scotch bright pad. Then washed the section down again when I was done. And even though I said elbow grease, there really wasn't much of that. Cleans up surprisingly easily for the most part. I even had some old primer where my (gulp) diamond plate used to be. It came off easily too with the Goof Off.
I looks so good I wish I hadn't been so careless with that mechanicin' fender over the years.
Okay first off this may be my favorite thread but I have some questions I’ve had my 40 for a year and after replacing the PO blown 350 and using it for a deer season it’s time to address the paint I have been going back and forth from rattle can to bed lining until I found this amazing thread. I follow you on IG 89 and love the stuff you’re doing. Now I wanted to see what I had I knew I had either Pueblo brown or orange Pollux or a bronze but can’t find a bronze in the 74 paint codes. The dash fuel door and glove box show it’s more bronze. Wel I tried goof off and scorch brite but it looks like I burned thru some original and the black the PO did over the gray comes off easy but not sure if I’m doing it wrong the grey doesn’t come off too easy did I screw up and any pointers are appreciated.
Here is the dash color as well and I have no idea if it’s orginal or not
I wonder if I’m burning thru the paint to fast because it wasn’t orginal and it was a repaint looks like 2 or 3 coats of a gray I did use a orbital with 800 and worked down to 320 and I think that was too aggressive I’m going to give this half of it a good try and then possibly just rattle can.
On the exposed metal should I match it or treat it and leave it?
Here is the dash color as well and I have no idea if it’s orginal or not
I wonder if I’m burning thru the paint to fast because it wasn’t orginal and it was a repaint looks like 2 or 3 coats of a gray I did use a orbital with 800 and worked down to 320 and I think that was too aggressive I’m going to give this half of it a good try and then possibly just rattle can.
On the exposed metal should I match it or treat it and leave it?
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Great thread! Thank you all for contributing, will be using this for the 76 fj40 I purchased.
Can someone add this to the FAQ thread?
Can someone add this to the FAQ thread?
Been planning on preserving my patina for years, but just keep the truck in the garage... sacrificing the 200 series to the elements!
I took it to the beach for the first time and boy did it patina! Any exposed metal started to surface rust in days. Was going to CLR the rust off and rattle can clear coat those spots...
Will the Penetrol help rattle can clear coat stick? I would think the opposite?
I love Fluid Film... use it on everything.
I took it to the beach for the first time and boy did it patina! Any exposed metal started to surface rust in days. Was going to CLR the rust off and rattle can clear coat those spots...
Will the Penetrol help rattle can clear coat stick? I would think the opposite?
I love Fluid Film... use it on everything.
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Got any pics?
Use Fluid film where you are considering painting after you clean it good.
Patina I want to preserve:
