Previous rattle can job of shipping damage:
Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter wngrog
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Fluid film on license plate holder:
The rattle can clear coat did a great job of rust inhibitor. I plan on doing the fenders at least, as I use them as tool holders whenever doing engine work.
- Thread starter
- #244
Just keep a light coat of Fluid Film on it. Don’t prime that.
Keep it thin and it won’t pick up dirt as bad. I keep it heavy under all my trucks. Yeah it picks up dirt but when you pressure wash it off it leaves the cleanest frame and undercarriage ever
I’ve pretty much stopped using Boiled Linseed oil and gone all Fluid Film
Keep it thin and it won’t pick up dirt as bad. I keep it heavy under all my trucks. Yeah it picks up dirt but when you pressure wash it off it leaves the cleanest frame and undercarriage ever
I’ve pretty much stopped using Boiled Linseed oil and gone all Fluid Film
- Thread starter
- #245
I’m totally against this. You are basically painting over rust which gives rust a wonderful medium to grow.
Oil is the way to go if you want the look.
Have you tried Coconut oil yet? Seems to be a trend in boating now that you can buy it in bulk from club stores and Amazon. May be suitable for the gel coat on the roof at least.
- Thread starter
- #247
Like I said. I’m really moving to Fluid Film for everything oil related. It is amazing stuff.
If it’s got a good layer of paint or gel coat, I use polish and wax though. No reason to have dirt attracting oils on solid paint.
If it’s got a good layer of paint or gel coat, I use polish and wax though. No reason to have dirt attracting oils on solid paint.
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The CLR mixed 25-30% into warm water and a fine scotchbrite pad are quite effective at removing the appearance of rust that has stained into paint.
This my 1962 FJ45 tailgate after scrubbing with carwash soap.
And the next day after using the CLR and scotchbrite technique.
Edit: zoom in on the pics in the gallery for a sharper view. Also, note the massive rust stains above the back windows where a piece of raw steel was bolted against the paint for 40 years.
This my 1962 FJ45 tailgate after scrubbing with carwash soap.
And the next day after using the CLR and scotchbrite technique.
Edit: zoom in on the pics in the gallery for a sharper view. Also, note the massive rust stains above the back windows where a piece of raw steel was bolted against the paint for 40 years.
- Thread starter
- #249
Fluid Film does a great job detailing an engine bay.
looks good
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I hadn't checked back in a while so hadn't seen this post. I think it would be best to stay away from sanding on the truck because you just can't avoid taking off a lot of the original paint. That sure looks like Pollux Orange which would be sweet. Try all of the other suggestions: Easy Off, Laquer thinner , and urethane bumper stripper. Once you get a system down that works on a small spot you'll be off and running on the rest. That primer looks thick so some form of stripper might get it but you will have to be ready to neutralize it super quick so the stripper doesn't take it all off! (Pun intended)
Simple Zep Citrus Degreaser should work to neutralize?
That should work. Those strippers are water based so lots of water along with it too.
I guess the way I visualize the task at hand is that you can count on a poor bond between the original paint and the offending top coating(s). You are looking for the best way to break the top coatings off without destroying the original paint. The good part is that the factory paint has been on so long that it is rock hard and not easily softened. The newer layers should soften first (to be removed), but the trick is finding what works best.
Going to start next week.
First round will be Easy Off Over Cleaner and scotch brite/gas pressure washer.
Secondly I’ll try some air craft paint stripper and pressure washer.
Got Zep degreaser on standby. I don’t have a lot to finish since @Ben edwards did 80% of the vehicle already.
It’s been sitting for a couple month but I finally budgeted some new lights and weather stripping for it. Strip the remainder paint and get the new weather stripping on. Should quiet it down a bit on the highway.
That's a beauty!! I'd flip the bezel, power wash it and start buffing that thing out. You'd be surprised how good it will come back.
I'd also ditch the red roof. Try some lacquer thinner and a scotch brite on a tiny section and see if that cuts it out. It should since you can see the white under all the flaking red paint.
Cheers. I don’t really understand why it has a red roof, if the original colour was white with a red body... I take delivery in a couple of weeks.
I bet you feel like a little kid at Christmas. Definitely post of some pics when you get it. That looks like a REALLY nice rig!!!
