Builds POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise (1 Viewer)

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Working on the back seat seemed like a good time to button up the details on the rear wheel wells...

I got the vinyl back in place (a few tears, but not bad looking at all), then the trim rings that screw in to hold down the vinyl humps, plus the little metal covers that cover where the wiring harness goes from the cargo area to the back seat area. Finally the latches that hold rear seat back in the upright position.

Other than the interior panels, cargo area is looking all buttoned-up!

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PTO Winch

The rest of the Pig as coming along well, so I thought I better lean up the PTO winch and get it back on the Pig. This would prove easier said than done!

I had taken the winch off when we started prepping Pig for paint, back in 2009. I thought I better get a solid set of pictures to see how everything bolted together, so I could re-assemble correctly. So these first pictures will just be documenting how the winch was bolted together.

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Everything on this Pig came apart pretty nicely. That changed when I went to take apart the PTO winch. I was able to get it apart except for the bottom roller. It would not come off the long shoulder bolt that the roller rides on. This bolt also holds the fairlead frame together.

So I brought it into work to pound on it in the vice. I was dribbling in different penetrating oils. I tried heating the roller with a torch. I started putting the assembly into a minus 80 degrees C freezer, and then heating the roller and pounding on it. No dice.

I brought the assembly to my buddy's shop and he put it in a 20 ton press and the bolt screeched loose. As soon as it got even with the roller, it siezed up again. So back into the vice and my friend put a long punch on it and pounded on the little f*@ker until it came out. That is when we saw that the punch got off center and mashed the threads down.

Bummer...

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Of course, that bolt for the roller fairlead is NLA from Toyota, so I tried to find a die locally for the threads. No luck. So I ordered a die. It shows up and does not match. I give up and take it to a machine shop for them to un-fuq the damage my friend and I had done. They fix it up.

In the meantime, I took the pieces of the fairlead to the powder coaters for some treatment.

Everything looks good and I go to put everything back together, only to feel that one of the upright rollers bolts wants to strip on me. WTF?!? This thing is pissing me off now! That was all just to prepare me for the fun of getting all the pieces of the winch to fit all the holes on the frame rails, extensions, and bumper. Oh Mylanta - if I were a drinking man, I would have drank a LOT getting this back on the Pig. Ugh.

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Very nice Pablo, well worth the effort. Taking all the pictures and posting them, helps a tremendous amount. We all have to go through the steps and it's always nice to see what someone else has done.

Thanks,

Ron
 
Very nice Pablo, well worth the effort. Taking all the pictures and posting them, helps a tremendous amount. We all have to go through the steps and it's always nice to see what someone else has done.

Thanks,

Ron

Thanks!
I hope these posts & pics can help others. I tried to document what I could to help me put everything back together.
I'll be off for a few days, taking the boy to Moab for a little Cruise Moab action. Not in the Pig, just a last minute chance to ride shotgun with someone else.
 
Very nice work. I like the final touch w/ the winch. What did you do for the "spiders" in the u-joints on the winch since the OEM's are NLA?

Luckily my u-joints felt solid, so I did not have to fret over these. I thought I remembered reading that these are the same as the u-joints used in the steering column for a 55? In which case they are the same as the drive shaft for an early Corolla...
 
Some of my photos are a little out of order. I took pictures on a few different cameras, and they name the files differently, and organize differently on the computer. Some of them show "Date Modified" as the actual day I took the image, some have "Date Taken" field left blank :confused:

Anyway, I found these pictures where we sealed up the rain gutter before shooting the roof cap.

One other item I missed posting in order of when things happened was sealing up the lower "A" pillar.

If you look at the lower portion of your A pillars, around the front door hinge areas, you can see that the seams are open. This allows water and dirt to enter and then run down into the rockers. No Bueno!

So when we were applying the seam sealer or caulking, I made sure to seal up these openings on the lower A pillar.

If you have your doors off for hinge repair and/or paint, take a look at this area and think about sealing!

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Getting in the time machine yet again to go back to some detail that I forgot to post...

Ron (ScrapDaddy) was posting about welding in plate to mount 3-point seat belts.
Pablo,

On the seatbelt mount, I'm using a plate made for that. It will be welded in. I'll fish it up with the wire and weld the holes. If you look at the rear seatbelt mount, it is only spot welded up there. We can do better than that!

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I did not do the plate up high on the B-pillar like he did, but I did weld in plate at the bottom of the B pillar to mount a retractable unit. My thought at the time was that I would use the retractable units I got out of various Pigs and mount the upper point above the rear door at the factory mount.

More on seat-belts later...

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IH8 leaks! I had a leak on the transmission that was a small drip.

I had the skid plate off and cleaned the transmission with a pressure washer to try to locate the source of the leak.

I traced the leak to this cover on the side of the transmission. I am not sure what exactly the purpose of this cover is on the transmission, it looks like maybe you could have run a PTO off the transmission? This cover is listed on the transmission from 9/73 (beginning of the 4 speed) to 4/76.

So I pulled it off, cleaned the gasket surface, got a new gasket and put it all back together. No leaks.

Everything looked good in the transmission.
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Okay, now on to the 33s.

Back in the day I bought Charles Wirrell's (cruiser_guy) 33x9.5R15 BFG MTs.
These were the ones he ran on his Pig for a while: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/september-potm-cruiser-guy-guatemala.174972/
By the time I was actually ready for them, I had second thoughts about using them based on wear and age. My friend owns a shop and was going to mount and balance the tires. He was not in favor of the old MTs if my goal was to drive the Pig over the road to Moab, etc. Based on that we got a set of 33x10.5 BFG ATs.

I considered putting the 33s on the 60 wheels I had, but the allure of putting them on factory steel wheels was strong. I had my factory disc steelies that came on my 40, so I got those blasted and powdercoated. Pig came with some spoked wagon wheels that would not fit over the disc calipers. The steelies are a little narrower than the 60 wheels (I think 5.5" vs. 6"?), so I have heard folks say that the 5.5" wide steel wheel is about the limit for a 10.5" wide tire. To get a full contact with the tread, you need to run a lower tire pressure in the 33 (about 25 PSI). A little while back I drove up to WY on a very windy day (gusts up to 80 MPH) and it did not feel good. I was wondering if I had more pressure in the tires if things may have felt a little more stable.

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