Possible bolt in 140-145a alternator (8 Viewers)

[clx16]

I have a 130 amp alternator from a tundra in mine, with NO wiring upgrades. The alternator won't put out more than is needed and I have not added any additional demands to the system. I likely will have to upgrade if I start winching etc I guess, but unless you just want to do it all at once, I wouldn't consider that an hindrance to getting back to being reliable.

 

[SeanLX]

Adding a larger wire while your in there is easy insurance.

Much easier to do it while the alternator is out than the side of the road because that new gadget or lights drew enough to melt the wire.

My Jag alternator works well to charge my dual batteries even with a good amount of added loads.

I did have to grind the case / adjustment bracket some to get it to move that last little bit to put tight new belts on.

 

[Fattyeighty]

Just got this done and only the car running for a minute to test it out.
Do you see a drop on the voltage meter with lights and AC on while lowering both front windows? At idle (800ish rpm)?
Did not measure with multimeter yet.

 

[Dave 2000]

I have a 130 amp alternator from a tundra in mine, with NO wiring upgrades. The alternator won't put out more than is needed and I have not added any additional demands to the system. I likely will have to upgrade if I start winching etc I guess, but unless you just want to do it all at once, I wouldn't consider that an hindrance to getting back to being reliable.

Whilst you may not have additional loads have you considered the load the alternator would see if you jump started your car after finding the battery flat one cold morning? The alternator would soon see the demand from a flat battery and perhaps run up the amperage and exceed standard (read old) cable and connectors now only capable of carrying perhaps 60 amps?

The hindrance of another hour or so of running the correct cable might well save an under bonnet fire?

Regards

Dave

 

[clx16]

Whilst you may not have additional loads have you considered the load the alternator would see if you jump started your car after finding the battery flat one cold morning? The alternator would soon see the demand from a flat battery and perhaps run up the amperage and exceed standard (read old) cable and connectors now only capable of carrying perhaps 60 amps?

The hindrance of another hour or so of running the correct cable might well save an under bonnet fire?

Regards

Dave

Yes it is true that the alternator will put out more to get a flat battery back up to the correct operating voltage. It would be good to verify your cables can still handle the extra amps. As you noted the danger is identified unfortunately by how warm the cables get. Mine are still in very good condition and did not get noticibly warmer the two times it has gone flat and been jumped. I say noticibly because you will always see that cable getting warmer than no load cables using a thermal camera (which i have). The cables are well capable of handling the extra load in good condition from my experience however mine is a southern truck with no green crusties in the wire(on this particular truck) my tundra on the other hand needs a new cable since it does have green crusties that were allowed to form by the previous owner in to the cable.

One additional thing you can do once starting an engine from a flat battery is to just let it idle for a while and not rev the engine to allow the alternator to give it full potential.

Also @Photoman i believe did some testing with winching draws and the stock fusable link (and his upgraded alternator setup) and was able to get it hot but it took some considerable load if i remember correctly. I believe I am still fairly protected from overheating the wires by keeping the fusable link in play. I do have an extra link as a spare though.

 

[Dave 2000]

Yes it is true that the alternator will put out more to get a flat battery back up to the correct operating voltage. It would be good to verify your cables can still handle the extra amps. As you noted the danger is identified unfortunately by how warm the cables get. Mine are still in very good condition and did not get noticibly warmer the two times it has gone flat and been jumped. I say noticibly because you will always see that cable getting warmer than no load cables using a thermal camera (which i have). The cables are well capable of handling the extra load in good condition from my experience however mine is a southern truck with no green crusties in the wire(on this particular truck) my tundra on the other hand needs a new cable since it does have green crusties that were allowed to form by the previous owner in to the cable.

One additional thing you can do once starting an engine from a flat battery is to just let it idle for a while and not rev the engine to allow the alternator to give it full potential.

Also @Photoman i believe did some testing with winching draws and the stock fusable link (and his upgraded alternator setup) and was able to get it hot but it took some considerable load if i remember correctly. I believe I am still fairly protected from overheating the wires by keeping the fusable link in play. I do have an extra link as a spare though.

Still not the right way to do it, but of course it is your rig.

Regards

Dave

 

[motormayhem]

Anyone know where to get a reman denso unit? Looks like RockAuto doesnt have reman denso in either this or the factory alt.

 

[jonheld]

Anyone know where to get a reman denso unit? Looks like RockAuto doesnt have reman denso in either this or the factory alt.

Amazon product ASIN B000C5RW2C

 

[motormayhem]

Amazon product ASIN B000C5RW2C

I was initially straying from random amazon sellers, but I guess its not a bad option. So does rockauto no longer carry them?

 

[audi2nr]

they might just be out of stock. i got a denso starter 2.0kw, sequoia 130a alternator and an a/c compressor from them just a few months ago.

 

[chbrow10]

My friend bought a jaguar alternator and when comparing the bolt holes and connector locations to the OEM 80 amp alternator, can anyone confirm that the 3 wire connector has to go on the opposite side of the alternator when installed? It looks like that in one of The OP’s pictures.

Also, it doesn’t look like the bolt threads are the same. Do you have to drill out or re-tap any of the holes in the ears of the jag alternator?

It’s entirely possible I’m confused here, so I would love some clarity from someone that has done this.

 

[gummycarbs]

can anyone confirm that the 3 wire connector has to go on the opposite side of the alternator when installed?

...

Also, it doesn’t look like the bolt threads are the same

Both are addressed in the first post.

It’s entirely possible I’m confused here, so I would love some clarity from someone that has done this.

It's been awhile since I've read the thread, but I think you're the first person to actually try it.

 

[Fattyeighty]

My friend bought a jaguar alternator and when comparing the bolt holes and connector locations to the OEM 80 amp alternator, can anyone confirm that the 3 wire connector has to go on the opposite side of the alternator when installed? It looks like that in one of The OP’s pictures.

Also, it doesn’t look like the bolt threads are the same. Do you have to drill out or re-tap any of the holes in the ears of the jag alternator?

It’s entirely possible I’m confused here, so I would love some clarity from someone that has done this.

If its the same part number as in the original post, you can reuse the original pivot bolt which is what I did, works fine and holds the torque spec (cannot remember)

The lower ear (for the bolt tension bracket) is not threaded like the original alternator , at least it wasn't for mine. I simply used a washer spring washer bolt combo after all belt tensioning was done. Requires some gymnastics but can be done.
The lower ear hole is larger than the original Toyota alt so kind of difficult to tap threads unless you install a thread insert (highly recommended because installing a nut on the back of the bolt is quite uncomfortable)

The 3 pin connector is not in the same location as the original alternator but it's no issue just plug it in.

I did need to grind the case to fit it in but no big deal, still works 2 years on and is an upgrade over the original Toyota alt
Did find another Jaq alternator with more amps but is physically larger which is disconcerting to anyone installing it but will try it someday
Good luc

 

[chbrow10]

If its the same part number as in the original post, you can reuse the original pivot bolt which is what I did, works fine and holds the torque spec (cannot remember)

The lower ear (for the bolt tension bracket) is not threaded like the original alternator , at least it wasn't for mine. I simply used a washer spring washer bolt combo after all belt tensioning was done. Requires some gymnastics but can be done.
The lower ear hole is larger than the original Toyota alt so kind of difficult to tap threads unless you install a thread insert (highly recommended because installing a nut on the back of the bolt is quite uncomfortable)

The 3 pin connector is not in the same location as the original alternator but it's no issue just plug it in.

I did need to grind the case to fit it in but no big deal, still works 2 years on and is an upgrade over the original Toyota alt
Did find another Jaq alternator with more amps but is physically larger which is disconcerting to anyone installing it but will try it someday
Good luc

Thanks for the info. Very helpful.

 

[Inukshuk]

Great thread!

 

[Outsane]

I have had the jag alternator in for a few months. It's been great, the bcdc pulls more amps then the old alt could put out and drain the main battery. This is the bracket I ended up with, @landtank Would have been an easier solution but was not in stock at the time.

 

[Inukshuk]

Did the Mod yesterday to @LongCruiser. I did a different thing with the bracket. Just drove 150 miles and worked great. I'll post up next few days.

 

[Inukshuk]

Thank you @toyotaspeed90 for getting this started and everyone else for write-ups and experiences.

I read the 27 page “Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp” thread to see what people were doing. Wow, that was a lot. I concluded this was the easiest and a very good way to go. This truck managed on 80A for 26 years. But the stock alternator was struggling. It would drop below 12V when at idle. It would be just above 13 at speed. I have 2 aux blowers for the passenger area. The interior lights are all LED so a nominal load. Still, with everything full blast, the stock alternator was at 82 amps. I have three batteries.

60A additional should be good. I'm adding about 40A of lights and maybe another amp.

I have R&R alternators on my other 80 before, so removal was straightforward. Since I was not sure what I’d need to do for install I removed the battery and box, cap & rotor, unbolted the PS reservoir to move it out of the way, moved the throttle cable out of the way, removed the idler pulley, and unbolted the bracket for the grey connector above the alt to move it aside. That all gave me easy access. I did not remove the oil filter.

When installing the Jag alternator:

1. I purchased the alternator from Rock Auto. More Information for ACDELCO 3341501 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1000815&pt=2412&jsn=1 Took the pulley off with an impact and swapped on the 80 pulley.
2. I made a 4GA sister wire for B terminal to the battery + with a 150A Mega Fuse in a holder (take your pick, there are many on Amazon)
3. I drilled a new but overlapping hole on the adjustment bracket that allowed the bracket to pivot downward on the stud mount and thus clear the alternator with only a tiny additional bit of grinding – 1/8 inch ish – at the top of the bracket. I did not grind the alt case. The force of the belts on the alternator are downward towards passenger side and the slot is below the mountng bolt. It won't move.
4. I slid the stock belts (good so I did not replace) over the pulley while the alt was free and then put the Alt into the bracket. Easy. When I need to replace belts the 1/2 longer ones would be a good idea, or I'll just pull the alternator out of the bracket.
5. For reference, the bolt I used for the lower alternator hole (through the adjusting block) is the same length and size as the bolt that goes through the now slotted hole driver’s side in the bracket. But since it now has a nut on the back, whatever fits will work. It was easy to get a socket on the nut.
6. The wire harness was plug and play.

I have driven about 200 miles this way. A scan gauge says I am now getting more than 13 at idle and 13.7 – 14.1 (depending on load) during normal driving. Right after startup I see 14.4 for a few minutes.

I plan to remove the factory B terminal wire bundle from the back of the alternator and attach it to the post of the 150A fuse block (on the non-fused side) so I can use my clamp gauge to see what amperage I pull when all accessories are on.

Thanks again for all who came before me and I hope this helps in the future.

 

[jaymar]

they might just be out of stock. i got a denso starter 2.0kw, sequoia 130a alternator and an a/c compressor from them just a few months ago.

Denso P/Ns by any chance?

 

[Outsane]

@Inukshuk that's way easier then what I did!

Fantastic work