Possible bolt in 140-145a alternator

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samiam09 said:
i Have not as of yet but did replace fusible link and need to update the charge lead.
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You can just piggy back the factory one by adding a ~4ga cable ontop of the factory one at the alternator and run it straight to the positive battery terminal
 
samiam09 said:
I purchase this on and installed it 2 months back, works great, 220A High Output Alternator for Toyota Land Cruiser, 1993 - 1997 4.5L L6 - 13497-220-HD1-2 | PowerBastards.com - https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=13497-220-HD1-2
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sorry if you already answered, i am still reading, but was this a drop in replacement? no mods to tensioner or brackets? thanks for sharing this.

EDIT: ah nevermind, you already answered. direct bolt on, no mods, sweet! i didn't want to lose my place. thanks again!
 
I recently installed the Jag alternator upgrade and replaced all the appropriate cables as well. However, I’m still running into issues at idle when using my accessories. I had a good-condition 80A Denso alternator before this, and it had the same issue. I assumed the Jag swap would fix the idle performance.

Typical Accessories:
  • LED Morimoto retrofits
  • 20A Victron DC-to-DC charger to charge an Ecoflow
  • Hardwired live rear-view camera
  • Dash cameras
  • Seat heaters
  • Inclinometer
When running the DC-to-DC charger at maximum output, I start to see flickering on my rear-view display. One of my accessories measures voltage, so I’ve used that as a quick reference:
  • 13.6V while driving
  • Drops to around 12V at idle
I also measured voltage directly at the battery terminals at idle with all accessories off, and it showed a healthy reading. But when I turn everything on, it drops significantly. Unfortunately, I don’t have the exact numbers handy right now.

So my questions are:
  1. Is it possible the alternator is defective, and should I pull it for testing?
  2. Or would a smaller pulley help maintain higher voltage at idle?
If I give it a bit of throttle, the voltage comes back up and everything works fine. I’ve ordered a hand throttle, but ideally, I’d like a solution that doesn’t rely on that.

Any ideas or experiences with similar setups would be appreciated!
 
Darkstar909 said:
I recently installed the Jag alternator upgrade and replaced all the appropriate cables as well. However, I’m still running into issues at idle when using my accessories. I had a good-condition 80A Denso alternator before this, and it had the same issue. I assumed the Jag swap would fix the idle performance.

Typical Accessories:
  • LED Morimoto retrofits
  • 20A Victron DC-to-DC charger to charge an Ecoflow
  • Hardwired live rear-view camera
  • Dash cameras
  • Seat heaters
  • Inclinometer
When running the DC-to-DC charger at maximum output, I start to see flickering on my rear-view display. One of my accessories measures voltage, so I’ve used that as a quick reference:
  • 13.6V while driving
  • Drops to around 12V at idle
I also measured voltage directly at the battery terminals at idle with all accessories off, and it showed a healthy reading. But when I turn everything on, it drops significantly. Unfortunately, I don’t have the exact numbers handy right now.

So my questions are:
  1. Is it possible the alternator is defective, and should I pull it for testing?
  2. Or would a smaller pulley help maintain higher voltage at idle?
If I give it a bit of throttle, the voltage comes back up and everything works fine. I’ve ordered a hand throttle, but ideally, I’d like a solution that doesn’t rely on that.

Any ideas or experiences with similar setups would be appreciated!
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Since the Jag alternator can output 220A you definitely need to upgrade the power and two ground wires or risk those wires burning up. Look up big 3 upgrade and that should have the info you need. This is a power and ground wire issue almost certainly

For context on my truck, I have about the same accessories and I just replaced my alternator with a reman 80A Toyota (died the day before a leaving and a friend had one on the shelf and saved my trip). I had similar issues to you but threw on an additional power wire and 2 grounds. Idle charging voltage went from 12.4V with Etaker charger running at 300W to my Ecoflow and nothing else on in the car on to 13.8V once I upgraded those three wires with Etaker, plus stereo, headlights, and HVAC fan on high. I'd start there
 
captainva said:
Since the Jag alternator can output 220A you definitely need to upgrade the power and two ground wires or risk those wires burning up. Look up big 3 upgrade and that should have the info you need. This is a power and ground wire issue almost certainly

For context on my truck, I have about the same accessories and I just replaced my alternator with a reman 80A Toyota (died the day before a leaving and a friend had one on the shelf and saved my trip). I had similar issues to you but threw on an additional power wire and 2 grounds. Idle charging voltage went from 12.4V with Etaker charger running at 300W to my Ecoflow and nothing else on in the car on to 13.8V once I upgraded those three wires with Etaker, plus stereo, headlights, and HVAC fan on high. I'd start there
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Sorry I should have been more clear. I have upgraded all the cables from jeepcables.com. I got the largest size as well to coincide with the Jag alts increased output. It idles so much smoother now but im still not seeing enough output at idle from the alternator.
 
Darkstar909 said:
One of my accessories measures voltage, so I’ve used that as a quick reference:
  • 13.6V while driving
  • Drops to around 12V at idle
Click to expand...
Made me curious and its a beautiful day to avoid work so I just went outside to measure.
I installed about a year ago and upgraded wires. probably 5k on the alternator. Stock pulley.
  • resting state of battery was 12.73 (Group 31 Odyssey AGM)
  • shortly after startup with all switchable accessories off: 14.4 at idle about 800 RPMs
  • about a minute later with higbeams on, to LP6s (about 16a), front and rear fans on high: 14.37 at same idle
  • going between idle and 3,000 rpms voltage did not change.
captainva said:
Since the Jag alternator can output 220A ...
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The early 200's Jaguar spec Denso Aleternator I used and I think the only one people use is rated to 140 AFAIK
 
According to some additional research online, the Bosch AL9433X alternator is more likely 150A
 
I recently installed the Acdelco alternator 334-1501 as shown in post 78 of this thread. Some notes:

  • I chopped up the bracket and filed down a section of the alternator housing to get it to fit well.
  • The OEM belt was too tight, and I found that the Gates 7450 worked well.
  • And then found that the belt only barely touches the pulley below. I'm still looking for a slightly bigger pulley to use.

After all that, if I could do it again, I'd go with a high output rebuilt OEM alternator that is actually bolt in.

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samiam09 said:
I purchase this on and installed it 2 months back, works great, 220A High Output Alternator for Toyota Land Cruiser, 1993 - 1997 4.5L L6 - 13497-220-HD1-2 | PowerBastards.com - https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=13497-220-HD1-2
Click to expand...

This alternator still working for you? This seems like a great product, but I wonder how they managed to get 220A out of the stock alternator housing-- and if there is a resulting sacrifice in reliability/longevity.

I always thought I would use the photoman kit (that you can get from DeltaVS) that uses a presumably reliable late model toyota alternator but it is also significantly more expensive by the time you buy everything.
 
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