pengfinn
dead set
This is awesome!
Possible bolt in 140-145a alternator (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter toyotaspeed90
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
That depends on your viewpoint of "true bolt in".
It will require some grinding of the stock lower bracket.
It will require a new/different longer bolt with nut on the bottom bolt.
You will have to do something about the wiring as stock cannot handle the 140 amps. Might be possible to run a second higher gauge in tandem with stock but I'm not an electrical engineer and don't know. My truck is getting a 3' 4ga quality cable swapped in, I already have upgraded grounds, and a new main lead to the starter.
Excellent! The alternator puts out a shade over 100 amps at only 2000 rpm!
- Thread starter
- #24
That's alternator rpm, given the pulleys it would be a lower engine rpm that delivers 100 amps.
I have success. haven't driven it, but belts track well, no noises, and the Christmas lights on the dash are off, with my voltmeter showing 14.2 at idle (higher than the old one).
I have success. haven't driven it, but belts track well, no noises, and the Christmas lights on the dash are off, with my voltmeter showing 14.2 at idle (higher than the old one).
Hornd
SILVER Star
I love that it's Denso! The quality is already proven
I will do this for sure when mine dies.
I will do this for sure when mine dies.
What do you mean the stock wiring can't handle the amps? What wiring did you Upgrade?
Oh good, British electricals... 
I was just looking at a Mechman 240A yesterday for a 2003 Sequoia, but it's $400.
I was worried when the sheet posted here said "tested at 12.8V". The stock Alt in my '97 won't even put out that low! It starts at around 14.8 at idle normally and drops to 13.3 or so after 20 minutes of driving. I'd like to keep it up there for my two 100+Ah AGM's.
I saw the OP's post at 14.2V which is better, but still not ideal.
Still watching and interested though.
.
I was just looking at a Mechman 240A yesterday for a 2003 Sequoia, but it's $400.
I was worried when the sheet posted here said "tested at 12.8V". The stock Alt in my '97 won't even put out that low! It starts at around 14.8 at idle normally and drops to 13.3 or so after 20 minutes of driving. I'd like to keep it up there for my two 100+Ah AGM's.
I saw the OP's post at 14.2V which is better, but still not ideal.
Still watching and interested though.
.
- Thread starter
- #28
There main lead from the alternator to the battery.
I opened the stock harness, the main lead on the alternator has 2 wires on it - 1 that leads to the battery and one that leads into the vehicle harness. I cut the wire to the battery and into the harness, and essentially connected the "vehicle" side to the battery (AM box). Ran a 4ga lead (3 ft) from the alternator to the battery. I know most won't do/like that and may want to consider a larger fusible link.
However, 4ga should only be used at an alternator with this amperage at no more than 5 ft, or at least according to the chart used at the battery shop.
The stock 3 wire connector reached without modification.
If you're talking about the charge cable then 4awg is fine. But I thought it was 4awg already. No?
I haven't opened the loom on it (yet) but reached down there and it sure feels like there's 4awg in there, along with a couple smaller primary wires.
I haven't opened the loom on it (yet) but reached down there and it sure feels like there's 4awg in there, along with a couple smaller primary wires.
- Thread starter
- #30
Went rootin' through the garbage, in the rain for ya.
It's typical for Toyota to either do this or split it within a foot of the alternator connector.
In the photo the connector on the right goes to the alternator, and on the left to the black box just before the battery (I think it's the AM connector... or at least that's what toyota calls that fuse on other toyotas). From the box to the battery is the stock fusible link (I personally bypassed it).
The cut wire was instead cut at the length so I cold put a terminal on it, connect it to the black box just before the battery, and wrap the stock wiring back up.
Theven primary wire appears to be 6 if not 8awg. I will, however, admit that the 2nd wire might be able to absorb some of the amperage and in tandem act as a higher gauge wire, but again - not an electrical engineer and unsure if it suffices.
4awg up to but no more than 5ft was the recommendation from alt to battery. I had mine made at 3ft.
It's typical for Toyota to either do this or split it within a foot of the alternator connector.
In the photo the connector on the right goes to the alternator, and on the left to the black box just before the battery (I think it's the AM connector... or at least that's what toyota calls that fuse on other toyotas). From the box to the battery is the stock fusible link (I personally bypassed it).
The cut wire was instead cut at the length so I cold put a terminal on it, connect it to the black box just before the battery, and wrap the stock wiring back up.
Theven primary wire appears to be 6 if not 8awg. I will, however, admit that the 2nd wire might be able to absorb some of the amperage and in tandem act as a higher gauge wire, but again - not an electrical engineer and unsure if it suffices.
4awg up to but no more than 5ft was the recommendation from alt to battery. I had mine made at 3ft.
- Thread starter
- #31
The old alternator never read higher than 14.2, and read mid 13s at idle 
14.2-14.3 steady at all rpm's driving around. Works well, I'm happy, no noises. High beams seem brighter too.
14.2-14.3 steady at all rpm's driving around. Works well, I'm happy, no noises. High beams seem brighter too.
Any updates? Anyone else tried this? My alternator is acting up and if it's just a little grinding I'm thinking about going this way.
Anyone know who actually makes the alternator? Putting Jaguar electrical parts on my Toyota just sounds wrong.
Anyone know who actually makes the alternator? Putting Jaguar electrical parts on my Toyota just sounds wrong.
pengfinn
dead set
I think someone said it's a Denso earlier in this thread.
- Thread starter
- #36
It's a Denso unit which is why it can plug right in.
Truck is running game great, nothing going to report negatively. Would do it again...
Other updates? Uh, it snowed and I got new tires....
Truck is running game great, nothing going to report negatively. Would do it again...
Other updates? Uh, it snowed and I got new tires....
Nice find. Going on the to do list!
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
You say it's a Denso unit but give an AC Delco part number on your Rock Auto link.
Noticed that as well.You say it's a Denso unit but give an AC Delco part number on your Rock Auto link.
