2w93-10300-ab
Pretty sure this is the part number
Pretty sure this is the part number
Possible bolt in 140-145a alternator (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter toyotaspeed90
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- Thread starter
- #42
That's because I was being nice and doing the research for a part number at Rockauto for you, the part number is an ACDELCO reman unit, original manufacturer is ND.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
So it's a Denso rebuilt by AC Delco? Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #44
That's the PN from rockauto. Mine is an ND unit rebuilt by the local company I used, so has nothing to do with ACDELCO...
Would someone mind detailing a little further what the wiring upgrade needs are? I'm seeking to upgrade my battery cables and I'd like to accomodate this mod... I'm not sure what needs to change on the wiring side. Any hints are appreciated. I read the description back in post 28 buuuut, without being familiar with the wiring already, it was tough to follow.
The OP replaced the piece of wire from the alternator feeding the battery. The wire is white, it probably came designed to support 95 amps or something from the stock alternator, the new one can supply 145 which is why he upgraded that small piece. If your not needing 145 amps or drawing a lot you won't need to initially, but should probably be done in the long term.
Again, white wire from alternator that feeds (connects to) the battery.
- Thread starter
- #48
You can piggy back the wiring - but until someone who is much smarter with electrical systems (an engineer) I would suggest going the route I did.
By 'piggy back' I mean leave the stock wiring as is, then run an additional 4ga from the alternator to the battery. That should take the load properly.... however.... I don't know how the stock wiring and fuses will take the upgraded alternator.
The easiest way to describe what I did is to first describe what is stock.
There is a cable, with a fusible link, that runs directly from the battery to the alternator. At the alternator end isn't 1 wire, but 2 that connect at the ring terminal (the main post). The 2nd cable feeds into the vehicle harness.
After unwrapping the harness (which I have done in the past for other upgrades/fixes) I cut the end that runs to the vehicle harness and instead ran it to the battery directly. A new high quality 4ga cable was then run from the alternator directly to the battery.
By 'piggy back' I mean leave the stock wiring as is, then run an additional 4ga from the alternator to the battery. That should take the load properly.... however.... I don't know how the stock wiring and fuses will take the upgraded alternator.
The easiest way to describe what I did is to first describe what is stock.
There is a cable, with a fusible link, that runs directly from the battery to the alternator. At the alternator end isn't 1 wire, but 2 that connect at the ring terminal (the main post). The 2nd cable feeds into the vehicle harness.
After unwrapping the harness (which I have done in the past for other upgrades/fixes) I cut the end that runs to the vehicle harness and instead ran it to the battery directly. A new high quality 4ga cable was then run from the alternator directly to the battery.
I might just put a Jaguar sticker on my 80 after doing this mod because I've always wanted a Jag....
Not really
Not really
What did you do for the pulley? Did they use your stock pulley or dead the Jag pulley work?
- Thread starter
- #51
Might as well put a jag sticker on your 80 since it too has a Denso alternator... has the same electrical plug even. Must be a Jaguar thing.
Maybe a Toyoda sticker.... or Aisin for a variety of mechanicals.... koito for the lenses...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #52
The place swapped the serpentine belt pulley for the same pulley the 80 uses. It wasn't from my old alternator but I did ask them and was stated was the same part, just cleaned up and painted.
Thanks for the reply toyotaspeed90 and thanks for the thread. I may be trying this soon. I need more juice!
So basically, if you upgrade the existing wiring to a thicker gauge, you're good? If stock wiring could handle the amps then none of the routing or fusible link or that mess changes?
Why not just upgrade factory wiring while you're in there?
Lots of guys upgrade their wiring anyways right?
Why not just upgrade factory wiring while you're in there?
Lots of guys upgrade their wiring anyways right?
@george_tlc im seeing you crush it in your responses on other electrical/alternator threads. Really informative and straightforward. Would you mind weighing in here? The question I have is:
If I replace stock wiring (fzj80) with @Fourrunner 's heavy duty kit, which includes:
Battery to starter cable
Negative to block (with 90 degree lug) cable
Negative to chassis cable
Ground strap from head to firewall
Ground strap from battery to fender
Then do I need to change any wiring to bolt this alternator in? With the updated wiring, do I need to do any additional work? Relays, fuses, etc? The way I'm reading this, it's just an issue of thickness of wire; that's it.
What do you think?
Much obliged
If I replace stock wiring (fzj80) with @Fourrunner 's heavy duty kit, which includes:
Battery to starter cable
Negative to block (with 90 degree lug) cable
Negative to chassis cable
Ground strap from head to firewall
Ground strap from battery to fender
Then do I need to change any wiring to bolt this alternator in? With the updated wiring, do I need to do any additional work? Relays, fuses, etc? The way I'm reading this, it's just an issue of thickness of wire; that's it.
What do you think?
Much obliged
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The alternator feeds through the fusible link assembly (one of the fusible links). So, massive current upgrade in alternator output could be an issue without considering fusible link size - especially if winching or battery(ies) are relatively discharged. Changing fusible link size is something that needs to be done with knowledge of the capability of the downstream wiring.
Basically, the fusible links are there to protect the harness/wiring, the fuses are there to protect the load from meltdown.
Upgrading battery/ground wiring in general is a good idea if you have winch loads etc.
cheers,
george.
Basically, the fusible links are there to protect the harness/wiring, the fuses are there to protect the load from meltdown.
Upgrading battery/ground wiring in general is a good idea if you have winch loads etc.
cheers,
george.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Anyone have a long term update? Been thinking of going this route or a smaller pulley I read about on another thread.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Anyone else use this alternator? Any longterm updates @toyotaspeed90
curious as well ^^^^
lumbee1
Native American
My alternator is shot and I'm close to purchasing the Jaguar replacement. @SeanLX is a close friend and has been running the jag alternator for some time with no drawbacks. My only holdup is upgrading the battery wire between the battery and alternator and modifying or replacing the fusible link.
