Pole Barn Build Thread (Only took 30 years) (1 Viewer)

[Drake2]

I HEAR YA.
I discovered Menards when my daughter lived in Milwaukee.. Man do I miss that store. I'm in VA.

Back to the shelves you would be wise to put a solid bottom on those shelves. speaking from experience.
loose parts will fall though and cable ends will get stuck when your trying to pull a motor/fan/electrical component off the top shelf.
Even putting some heavy cardboard, thin plywood or those vinyl shelf covers that come in the roll fro Lowes-etc.
Looks great!
Bobmo

I almost for got, arent you worried about the roof sweating? I dont see any insulation on the roof panels.

Hi Bob, sorry I did not get back to you sooner. I do have plans to line the shelves that have items that could fall through or get stuck. I am just putting things on to figure out spacing and how much shelf space I need to dedicate to product categories right now. It will probably all get moved around a few more times before finalizing the layout.
Regarding the roof sweating.......I was told by the building manufacturer that this was not an issue as long as I have the concrete floor in. They did say roof sweating was an issue if the floor was gravel or dirt. I have not done any insulation yet partially for this reason and the cost being the other reason. This summer we will be able to verify condensation, leaks, etc...and then hopefully do some insulation before next winter rolls in.

 

[Drake2]

What is the insulation plan now?

Sorry for the delay in responding to your question. The cost of insulation (batts, sprayfoam) was too much to incorporate this year. Hopefully, before next winter and after we verify no more leaks this summer, some insulation will get installed.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I am following along. I have a weird spot I am going to put a shop and my first project is to excavate it to see if my hopes and dreams can be achieved. For tgis I bought a Kubota tractor which in itself has been a lifetime dream. If successful, then I have to decide on pole barn v stick built v metal kit and then there is the issue with onslab or slab poured after. If I try to auger in a 5 foot post hole the possibility of hitting a boulder derailing the entire plan is real.

 

[PAToyota]

A little late now, but stopping the beam over the column reduced the load. If you staggered the joints and bolted everything together (construction adhesive between boards as well would be even better) it would have made for a much stronger assembly by making it a continuous beam. I've included the basic loading diagrams for each condition.

 

[Drake2]

A little late now, but stopping the beam over the column reduced the load. If you staggered the joints and bolted everything together (construction adhesive between boards as well would be even better) it would have made for a much stronger assembly by making it a continuous beam. I've included the basic loading diagrams for each condition.

View attachment 2529198

Very good point. I was winging this construction thing and probably could have done a few things better. Net barn I guess

 

[Drake2]

Got a few more lights up and finished all outlets and switches that are currently installed. Tested the lights in the clean room and I just need to route the wire in a more professional manner.

 

[bkfj40]

I was in the same boat 12 years ago on my 32x40 pole barn. One thing I skipped was insulation. I still kick myself for that. Now everything is on the walls and I wish that I would've done it earlier.

Everything looks great!

 

[Drake2]

More clean room progress. Wall plywood and some initial insulation before R-19 batts go on.

 

[Drake2]

Finally had a chance to put up some long overdue wall art. I think it helps to make the space feel a little less industrial. Even have room for 1 or 2 more. Have to decide between AC/DC, Black Sabbath, DIO, & Judas Priest

 

[PAToyota]

You probably want a pressure treated sill plate there where it is on the concrete. You'll get condensation on the cooler concrete that will rot the wood over time. Another option is the foam sill sealer under the sill plate.

 

[Drake2]

You probably want a pressure treated sill plate there where it is on the concrete. You'll get condensation on the cooler concrete that will rot the wood over time. Another option is the foam sill sealer under the sill plate.

I thought about that after the fact unfortunately. The bottom plate is already anchored to the concrete. Have to see how well it holds up.

 

[bkfj40]

Sad that you go through all that work and didn't use a treated plate. In reality though, houses were built for years without pressure treated wood in contact with concrete and masonry. If it stays dry, you'll most likely be ok.

 

[PAToyota]

Unfortunately, the difference is in the wood that was used years ago... The top 2x4 is from the 1960's while the bottom is from 2019. With all those rings, the top is a lot denser while the bottom one sucks up moisture like a sponge.

 

[Goebeler]

Just remodeled a lower level that was build by a handy man over 20 years ago. They didn’t use pressure treated plates and th basement flooded quite a few times over the years and the lates wer like new, Just stained..

Your shop is high and dry so guessing the plates will last as long as you do. YOur kids may bitch but that’s their problem bud.

Love the build out project.

Goebs

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I know this post is ancient, but thanks for covering this build. This is in my 5 year (ok, 5+) plan if all the cards fall into place. My
Short term memory sucks and I was reading this at like 2am. Did you wind up at 15 or 16ft sidewalls? What kind of ceiling height do you have upstairs and downstairs (over the steps where the trusses come down). I’m not sure ordinances around here will let me get away with much more than a 14ft wall but a mezzanine would be super convenient.

I’m limited to about 28x38, but this makes me want to find a way to squeeze in a clean room.

 

[Drake2]

I know this post is ancient, but thanks for covering this build. This is in my 5 year (ok, 5+) plan if all the cards fall into place. My
Short term memory sucks and I was reading this at like 2am. Did you wind up at 15 or 16ft sidewalls? What kind of ceiling height do you have upstairs and downstairs (over the steps where the trusses come down). I’m not sure ordinances around here will let me get away with much more than a 14ft wall but a mezzanine would be super convenient.

I’m limited to about 28x38, but this makes me want to find a way to squeeze in a clean room.

Hi Rick, my side walls were 15' and IIRC we used scissors trusses to increase the height in the middle. I built the mezzanine so the headroom under it was like 8 ft. The mezzanine materials were like $1500 at the pricing of the day. Hope this helps.

Drake

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Hi Rick, my side walls were 15' and IIRC we used scissors trusses to increase the height in the middle. I built the mezzanine so the headroom under it was like 8 ft. The mezzanine materials were like $1500 at the pricing of the day. Hope this helps.

Drake

Thanks!

Ideally I’d like to keep one bay (roughly 12x28) for woodworking, wall it off from the two garage/car bays. In a perfect world I’d build a mezzanine over the wood shop bay with a 8.5-9ft ceiling below to allow for a (tall) dust collector in the wood shop. I’ve also got 8ft ceilings in my basement (where the shop currently is) and I can’t tell you how many light fixtures I’ve smashed trying to rotate a board… Of course if I go too high on the ceiling, I’ll lose head space in the mezzanine. Scissor trusses would help there, but the way I have things laid out I’d have a similar situation to yours, with the stairs coming up into the trusses. How’s the clearance at the steps under the truss? Do you get 6-7ft over at the wall at the top of the steps or do you need to duck under a truss? If I add a foot of ceiling below, and lose a foot on the wall height, I’d probably be ok at the middle but I’d have to crawl up the last few steps!

 

[Drake2]

Thanks!

Ideally I’d like to keep one bay (roughly 12x28) for woodworking, wall it off from the two garage/car bays. In a perfect world I’d build a mezzanine over the wood shop bay with a 8.5-9ft ceiling below to allow for a (tall) dust collector in the wood shop. I’ve also got 8ft ceilings in my basement (where the shop currently is) and I can’t tell you how many light fixtures I’ve smashed trying to rotate a board… Of course if I go too high on the ceiling, I’ll lose head space in the mezzanine. Scissor trusses would help there, but the way I have things laid out I’d have a similar situation to yours, with the stairs coming up into the trusses. How’s the clearance at the steps under the truss? Do you get 6-7ft over at the wall at the top of the steps or do you need to duck under a truss? If I add a foot of ceiling below, and lose a foot on the wall height, I’d probably be ok at the middle but I’d have to crawl up the last few steps!

Hi Rick, with the scissors trusses I just cleared them at the top of the stairs without having to duck and I'm 6ft.....but shrinking . I'd clear even better today if I had not sold the place

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Hi Rick, with the scissors trusses I just cleared them at the top of the stairs without having to duck and I'm 6ft.....but shrinking . I'd clear even better today if I had not sold the place

Got it, so I’d have to figure out a way to get my stairs a little closer to center if I get capped at a 14ft side wall…

Appreciate the insight!