Pole Barn Build Thread (Only took 30 years) (1 Viewer)

[1911]

Isolated 6"-8" thick pad for the 2-post lift (brand to be determined yet but has to be soon)....probably Bendpak or Atlas because the USA made ones are simply too expensive .

Not sure what your budget is, but have you considered Dannmar? You can get their 10,000 lb. asymmetric two-post lift for less than $3,000 and free shipping: Dannmar D-10/ACX ALI-ETL Certified Two Post Car Lift 10,000 lb. formerly Brigadier 10ACX

 

[Drake2]

Not sure what your budget is, but have you considered Dannmar? You can get their 10,000 lb. asymmetric two-post lift for less than $3,000 and free shipping: Dannmar D-10/ACX ALI-ETL Certified Two Post Car Lift 10,000 lb. formerly Brigadier 10ACX

I looked into them but they are now charging sales tax which adds a couple hundred bucks. Still considering them but I have to keep the taxes implication in mind. If I can find equal value and quality without the taxes, bonus....

 

[Drake2]

Blankets laid out to help break any frost that is left before concrete.

 

[D21FJ60]

How are you heating it? Massive wood stove would be cool but probably inefficient?

 

[Drake2]

How are you heating it? Massive wood stove would be cool but probably inefficient?

Insurance companies around here do NOT like wood burning stoves in pole barns and they let you know this by the high rate for insurance so I am probably going with gas but it will probably have to wait until next next year. They are pouring concrete today.....in about 30 minutes and I am having them install and pour around a couple access boxes for water, gas, & electric. Boxes came from Lowes for about $22.00 each (19" x 14" x 12"). Concrete will be flush to the top outside edge. Comes with a removable access panel top lid.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/NDS-19-in-L-x-14-in-W-x-12-in-H-Rectangular-Irrigation-Valve-Box/3133533

 

[Drake2]

Concrete time....

2-post lift pads and the trench drain

Utility access boxes ready for flush to the top burial

 

[Drake2]

More

 

[Drake2]

Smoothing the inside to a finish between polished and broom along with pouring the apron. The yard was soooooo wet that they could not get the concrete truck all the up to the barn so they had to use these concrete buggies. I have never seen these before....hmmmm, still learning new things I guess

 

[Drake2]

More pics and yard damage. Next year we will try to put in the gravel drive from the blacktop to the shop so the damage is only temp.

Ruts are about 10" deep.....I think that cement truck needs some TSL Boggers

 

[Ol Yeller]

Great to have a floor down! Your conc trucks are super different to what we use, I’ve never seen a front dump.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Awesome man. It'll take some work to repair that approach, lol.

 

[1911]

Awesome man. It'll take some work to repair that approach, lol.

Good excuse to buy a tractor and a box blade, if he doesn't have one already.

 

[Drake2]

Great to have a floor down! Your conc trucks are super different to what we use, I’ve never seen a front dump.

@Ol Yeller I think we have had them like that for a decade or more. We still have the rear dumpers as well. Maybe 50/50 ratio of each.

 

[Drake2]

Good excuse to buy a tractor and a box blade, if he doesn't have one already.

@GLTHFJ60 and @1911 that is where the gravel drive will go next year so no worries on my end.

 

[Drake2]

Saw cutting today

 

[PAToyota]

I hate to say it, but that much moisture in the base along with freezing temperatures and light gauge mesh without any chairs is a good recipe for cracks and settlement. There are two types of concrete contractors - those that tell you all concrete cracks and settles and those that do it right.

 

[Drake2]

Small update.....Finally got the new OH door installed.

Amarr 16 x 14
2" thick, polyurethane filled (R-19.4 value)
(4) 12 x 24 windows
Heavy duty angle mounting track with 15" radius
Received quotes from $5200 - $3200 installed.....it pays to shop around

Still have not decided on the opener yet but getting the building closed up and secure was the priority at this point.

 

[1911]

Still have not decided on the opener yet but getting the building closed up and secure was the priority at this point.

I really like the wall-mounted jack-shaft openers on my shop doors. They take up almost no space and you don't have a motor, rail, and chain or belt hanging from the ceiling in your way. I have the LiftMaster 8500 units on mine, but my doors are only 10' high so I'm not sure the 8500 would be enough hp for your door.

Wall Mount Garage Door Openers | LiftMaster

 

[Drake2]

I really like the wall-mounted jack-shaft openers on my shop doors. They take up almost no space and you don't have a motor, rail, and chain or belt hanging from the ceiling in your way. I have the LiftMaster 8500 units on mine, but my doors are only 10' high so I'm not sure the 8500 would be enough hp for your door.

Wall Mount Garage Door Openers | LiftMaster

Thanks for the suggestion @1911 .......would you be able to PM me a couple snaps of how your setup looks?

 

[1911]

Thanks for the suggestion @1911 .......would you be able to PM me a couple snaps of how your setup looks?

There's not an easy way of attaching photos to PM's, but I don't mind posting them here. There's a ton of sh!t in the way; my shop is currently being used to store all our worldly goods in, until the house is finished.

The motor directly drives the jack shaft above the door. A coiled torsion spring on the jack shaft provides a counter-force to help lift the weight of the door. The only disadvantages that I can see are the higher initial cost, and that the torsion spring has to be adjusted exactly right, so that you probably won't want to install it yourself.