Pig hunting (2 Viewers)

[PabloCruise]

Shafts should be similar, but the bolt pattern of the flanges on the t-case, shaft, and 3rd member likely will be different...

Looks like they went from 10mm bolts to 11mm as well:

 

[dogfishlake]

Looks like they went from 10mm bolts to 11mm as well:

Good info. Thank you. Since I will be putting new u-joints in, I might get lucky and be able to use the flanges from the '76 and the '70 shaft (?)

 

[dogfishlake]

I hope to get lucky here $$ wise because I'd rather save for an H55/split case swap, which will need driveshafts modded then.

 

[PabloCruise]

Good info. Thank you. Since I will be putting new u-joints in, I might get lucky and be able to use the flanges from the '76 and the '70 shaft (?)

Worth a shot! I do not now if the dimensions on the yolks changed? You could look up the u-joints and see what years they cross...

I hope to get lucky here $$ wise because I'd rather save for an H55/split case swap, which will need driveshafts modded then.

I feel you bro! I would like to acquire the same.

 

[dogfishlake]

feel you bro! I would like to acquire the same

The sickness doesn't stop there. Ideally would be a Holley super sniper with a blow through turbo (cute little fella sized) in front of the H55.
@FJ60Cam is ready. Just gotta fund it.

 

[wngrog]

The easiest thing it to reuse your 76 slip yoke on the 76 shaft

Then you can grab the flange off a third on your parts truck to match shaft or use the 76 pattern when rebuilding the ujoint.

 

[dogfishlake]

Doing prep for SSS19. Pig in the air.

There is so much to do but only so much time. This approach will be much like how I looked at vehicles when I was 17, fix what you must and drive it. A few alterations though, like the lift kit. But it MUST go on to look right so I want to do more to it.

 

[dogfishlake]

I went ahead and got 4° steel shims for the front expecting loose steering feel from too little caster. Unfortunately the pins don't reach up though the shims to lock the axle housing so I plug welded a 3/8" grade 5 nut on the top of the pin and ground it to perfect exacting tolerance to make it reach higher, then a quick powder coat job because I know a guy

 

[dogfishlake]

Sticks up there right proud now. Honestly I think all the pins from ARB ought to come this way because there is plenty of room for the extra if one doesn't need the shim.

 

[dogfishlake]

Back to the LX470 parts truck/storage truck for more pieces to the lift

 

[wngrog]

It’s a hell of a job

 

[dogfishlake]

Front lift is done, except for the steering stabilizer which I'll do with the tie rod kit. I broke all of the bolts free in the back and reapplied penetrating oil on them. I cut off the exhaust because the wizzards I hired to do the exhaust how I wanted and not to a price point did it "really cheap for you man" and not how I wanted. I will weld it back together exiting behind the wheel and not out the back.
Coming along well so far, just need to find some more hours!

 

[dogfishlake]

I only got one side of the rear lift done this weekend. Was hoping for both but that is some butt kicking work. Moving the rear spring mount was tough, as I knew it would be. Those rivets are in there good. Torch, bfh, air chisel, cut off grinder, more torch, more bfh and I got it.
The real test was getting that spring up in there. That sucker is massive. I will be shocked if I don't have to remove a leaf or three but I need to know so together it goes. That kicked my butt so much that one side is all I got tonight.
Still, it is a sweet lift.

Floor carnage

 

[wngrog]

Lived it. I feel you. I remember the second side went much faster

 

[dogfishlake]

Lived it. I feel you. I remember the second side went much faster

I can see it happening.

 

[Ol Yeller]

I have that same beefy spring pack on the floor waiting, will be interesting to see how many leaves you take out.

If you haven’t already removed the other rivets @J Mack recomended a great method...drill the rivet after grinding the head to release some tension then it’ll pop right out with the air chisel, works good.

 

[J Mack]

If you haven’t already removed the other rivets @J Mack recommended a great method

I've removed more than one rivet and if you use a good quality sharp drill bit and drill the rivet first this isn't a hard job, less than 30 minuets to remove both my rear hangers.

 

[wngrog]

I took 3 out and put 2 back in after my 55 Gallon tank

Leave em.....

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I am so glad the PO had the ARB springs done before I bought mine.

 

[dogfishlake]

I have that same beefy spring pack on the floor waiting, will be interesting to see how many leaves you take out.

If you haven’t already removed the other rivets @J Mack recomended a great method...drill the rivet after grinding the head to release some tension then it’ll pop right out with the air chisel, works good.

I'll try that, thanks.