Builds Paul R's BJ73 (Milo) Restomod Build (1 Viewer)

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That is one nice washing bay. Wish I had that.

Cheers

Luckily I have been able to work on it after hours at work. We fix large electric motors and generators so there are a lot of resources that have been nice to use. The only major pain is having to move stuff around a lot to keep it out of the way.
 
Cool Paul. I don't think there is anything necessarily that needs to be done to the head, pre-turbo. Depending on past usage, maintenance, and mileage, you might toast the HG or crack some pre-cups after forcing induction. The cooling system overhaul is a great first step. Valve adjustments are essential for this engine-- 10-15K miles consistently.

In terms of fuel: I'd have injectors at a minimum rebuilt with nozzles to accommodate fuel flow for a turbo. Ideally, IP should be rebuilt but not a necessity.

Cool projects. Looking forward to the outcomes.

I ended up pulling the head off and definitely already have cracked precups (anyone have some hidden away?) possibly a small crack in the head as well that I will need to address

I also pulled the injectors to get tested and rebuilt, but the place I took them too doesn't have any options for a higher flow nozzles. Have others with a turbo 3B used the regular ND nozzles or is there a higher flow option?

On a positive note, frame is blasted and ready for a few mods before getting galvanized. I am also about done assembling the axels.
 
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Frame blasted. Need to make some provisions to mount the toybox so I'll weld on some angle iron to add a bit of flexibility with transmission and tcase frame mounts.

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It's gonna take a bit to make work (need to check through the transmission and rebuild my tcase). But, I'm excited to get a third shift knob :cool: I loved it in my old mini truck.

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Nice to have freshly powder coated parts and really happy with the knuckle rebuild kit from @cruiseroutfit and huge thanks to @bryson for helping me figure out how to get the ARB airlines in the third into the housing.

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Knuckles and all packed and sealed up with longfield birfs. Should be able to finish up the front and rear hubs tomorrow. They will be already to go under the frame when it gets galvanized and painted.
 
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Frame blasted. Need to make some provisions to mount the toybox so I'll weld on some angle iron to add a bit of flexibility with transmission and tcase frame mounts.

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It's gonna take a bit to make work (need to check through the transmission and rebuild my tcase). But, I'm excited to get a third shift knob :cool: I loved it in my old mini truck.

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Nice to have freshly powder coated parts and really happy with the knuckle rebuild kit from @cruiseroutfit and huge thanks to @bryson for helping me figure out how to get the ARB airlines in the third into the housing.

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Knuckles and all packed and sealed up with longfield birfs. Should be able to finish up the front and rear hubs tomorrow. They will be already to go under the frame when it gets galvanized and painted.

Looking good Paul.

Is that Full Blown Coatings? Had them do some work for me. Top notch.
 
Wow, you are going all out!

Looks great!

I have some 1PZ precups but don’t think they are the same.

Cheers

Thanks! I would guess that the precups are different. Thanks though!

Looking good Paul.

Is that Full Blown Coatings? Had them do some work for me. Top notch.

Thanks. Yep, I had Full Blown do all the powder coating they do a great job.
 
Need some advice on the head. I thought I was good to go until I cleaned the carbon build up and saw the cracks between the valves. I am going to have it magnafluxed to see if the cracks are into the valve seat journals yet. Has anyone had luck with repairing a head in similar condition?

If that is a bad idea, where can you still find 3B heads? I have read that it is near impossible to track down an OEM. I also seem to remember reading that people that tried the Alibaba route ended up with the older casting with smaller exhaust valves.

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Not too many updates. I did get the frame back from being galvanized and finished up the axles minus steering and brake lines.
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Had some great help cataloging a bunch more brackets and hardware to take to get cadmium plated (I'm afraid it is a bit addicting, but it looks so good when its done!).
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Still looking for the best option for a 3B head. If anyone has a lead on a good option, please message me!
 
Not too many updates. I did get the frame back from being galvanized and finished up the axles minus steering and brake lines.
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Had some great help cataloging a bunch more brackets and hardware to take to get cadmium plated (I'm afraid it is a bit addicting, but it looks so good when its done!).
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Still looking for the best option for a 3B head. If anyone has a lead on a good option, please message me!
@Onur
 
Also, I finally dropped out the pistons and took a gander at the bearings. Halloween revealed some spooky things. Glad I took the time to get here as It looks like a full rebuild is in order (I was basically planning it since I am spending so much on the head at this point).

Hard to tell from this pic, but you can see some slivers of babbitt in the oil pan screen. Pics below show where it came from.
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Bearing 3 looks totally fubard (I'm sure this is where the babbitt in the screen came from). Bearings 4 and 5 were definitely on their way to issues as well.
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I'll get the crank out soon and measure it all up to see how bad it is. Grind it if needed and get some new bearings, pistons, rings, sleeves (if needed) and get everything rolling back together. It definitely won't be fast though. I have been really busy lately and not getting much time to dedicate to it.

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Also split off the oil cooler. It definitely looks pretty nasty on the coolant side just like everything else has so far. I also worked on cleaning up many bolts. Anything outside the engine will get cadmium plated. Anything internal will either be replaced or cleaned up really well.
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Happened across your build and checking in for any updates.
 
I have been stalled out for a little while, but still have big things in store.

Over the past year as things opened up more from Covid, my business took more of my time and I didn't have as much time to work on it. But I did make progress.

I have continued to spend time cleaning and revamping the 3B engine and it is close to being able to get going back together. I spent significant effort cleaning, prepping, and cataloging nuts, bolts, and misc items to get cadmium plated or replaced as necessary.

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The end result is worth the effort
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Since we have a sand blaster and multiple ovens around the shop I started to pick up powder coating for smaller items, and have been very happy with the results so far.

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I also spent time getting the block wire wheeled, re-sleeved, honed, and painted ready to be reassembled. After paint, I chased all the threads with a tap to ensure it's ready to rock and roll.
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I also got my head back from repair and it painted and in preparation to hopefully protecting it from being damaged in the future, I had it ceramic coated by gasket matching the head gasket. I also had the piston crowns coated with the same coating and the sides coated with a moly. I'm hoping it will help the motor last a long while when reassembled with the turbo.

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And right as I was about to start putting everything together, I had a momentary lapse of sanity and ended up purchasing a 1HD-FT to stuff inside the engine bay instead of the 3B. So plans are changing quite a bit right now. The 1HD variant has always been what I would want to have in the engine bay so after always kind of wishing I went that way, I finally decided to make it happen. Thank you to @jomelo and @SNLC.

The current parts that are on order or planned for the new drive train are as follows:
  • 1HD-FT engine rebuild currently sitting with @SNLC who will be helping to build it and has been incredible in helping identify needed parts and sources
  • Gturbo Red Wheel Turbo
  • Rebuilt and upgraded Injection Pump (targeting 200HP+)
  • Rebuilt and upgraded Injectors (+30%)
  • PDI Intercooler for the narrow nose 70 series to hopefully keep EGTs inline
  • PDI high flow air box
  • Safari Armax snorkel (SS70HP) for the narrow nose 70 series to allow higher airflow than a regular snorkel
  • ARP head studs for the 1HD-FT
  • All new valves and springs for head
  • New injector lines
  • HZJ7X frame side and motor side mounts
Right now, I'm planning to move forward on an H152F for the transmission and will need to piece together a PT case. I really think the beefier transmission and taller OD gear are going to be right for the new motor and how I want to use it.

If you need 3B parts hit me up as I will be selling it (still trying to decide whether to build it and sell as a whole or piece it out). I'll also have a couple H55Fs and a Marlin Toybox that I'll part with. While I put a lot of time, sweat, money and tears into the 3B H55 setup, I am really excited to move forward with the 1HD-FT.
 
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I also spent time getting the block wire wheeled, re-sleeved, honed, and painted ready to be reassembled. After paint, I chased all the threads with a tap to ensure it's ready to rock and roll.
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I also got my head back from repair and it painted and in preparation to hopefully protecting it from being damaged in the future, I had it ceramic coated by gasket matching the head gasket. I also had the piston crowns coated with the same coating and the sides coated with a moly. I'm hoping it will help the motor last a long while when reassembled with the turbo.

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The FT/FTE peer pressure is too strong in the 70-Section :D

A shorty 70-series with a Red Wheel FT is going to be bananas fast.
 

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