Builds Oman -> SoCal 1995 FZJ75 Troopy (1 Viewer)

[Owyhee Jackass]

Here's what I did when I installed an 80 booster.

Builds - Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal

40-50 cfs, that's bony. Bet 5-mile was interesting at that flow too.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[AirheadNut]

The pushrod was perfect on mine, but I don’t know if the Prado pedal setup is different from a 75.

 

[svsisu]

@Owyhee Jackass has a nice, simple way of extending the clevis to the brake pedal, but if you don't have the parts @cruisermatt has an elegant machined clevis that solves the problem:

Extended Brake Clevis for Booster Upgrade

Extended clevis for upgrading to an 80 series booster in your 70 series. Made in USA

cruisermatts.com

I ordered an ADVICS 1" bore master BMT051 (BMT-051) for a T100 about $68 from Rock Auto. @cruiseroutfit sells the bigger 1 1/16" bore master BKN34031 (ADVICS 47201-34031 BMT 081). Both of these masters have a larger bore than the 75 series. They may have different electrical connections for the fluid float compared to yours, but that is pretty easy to rectify, and depending on which one you go with @cruisermatt has an adapter that will help sort you out:

60 Series Brake Master Cylinder Upgrade Harness

Installing a T100 or 80 Series brake master cylinder in your 60 series to go along with a brake upgrade? This harness adapts and extends the brake fluid level switch wiring seamlessly. If you have any questions about compatibility or installation, please do not hesitate to reach out to us for...

cruisermatts.com

Don't forget to get new gaskets for between the master and booster, and booster and firewall. You will need to check/adjust the pushrod depth between the master and booster. An inexpensive plastic pushrod depth tool can be found online, ebay I think? City Racer may have one on their site, but they definitely have a good write up on how and why this needs to be adjusted. And, @landtank has free push rod adjustment tool (and some other cool stuff) on his site:

Brake Booster Pushrod Adjustment tool

This tool is used to set the booster push rod position to interface with the master cylinder. Free, just pay shipping

landtankproducts.com

 

[prwillard2]

In theory it should as it just gives the system more pressure, but it might create some bias from inherent differences in the drums/disc that may not be fully mitigated with proportioning valves. If you are going to take something like that on, best to convert to discs as part of it all. If you're rear axle is full float, parts from other 70 series with disc brakes will cross over fairly easily.

I'll shoot you a message!

 

[prwillard2]

So have ordered/have on hand the following:

Brake Booster: 44610-60822
Master Cylinder: ADVICS BMT008 from Rock Auto - now out of stock as I bought the last one.
Extended clevis: Extended Brake Clevis for Booster Upgrade - https://cruisermatts.com/products/extended-brake-clevis-for-booster-upgrade
Master Cylinder Gasket: 47275-24010 47275-24010 Genuine Toyota Gasket, Brake Master Cylinder - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~brake~master~cylinder~47275-24010.html
Brake Booster Gasket: 44785-35020 44785-35020 Genuine Toyota Gasket, Brake Booster - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~brake~booster~bracket~44785-35020.html
Pushrod Adjuster Tool: Brake Booster Pushrod Adjustment tool - https://landtankproducts.com/products/brake-booster-pushrod-adjustment-tool

Will need a new hose to connect from the different vacuum inlet on the 80 series to my 75, pics attached.

 

[locklaw]

Just to clarify, is this a general statement about BBK's/larger caliper upgrades? If so, do you have any experience with the PowerBrake BBK specifically?

Reason I ask, is eveything I have read on reviews of PowerBrake's BBK and also speaking with Delon with PowerBrake the pedal feel remains unchanged and its due to the design of the caliper to the specific vehicle with stock/OEM components e.g., brake boost cylinder and master cylinder, etc. Whereas most other manufactures take a 'one size fits all' approach and the caliper internals are not designed specifically for the vehicle it's mounted on.

We buy from Powerbrake South Africa so it's no guarantee that the calipers are the same. They use pads from a Maserati Quattroporte and come in redor grey if that helps. 17" or larger wheels are required. We exclusively make use of Powerbrake components.

I own 2 VDJ79's with Powerbrake's BBK kits and we do 2/3 per month commercially (vs 9+ with "regular slotted/vented disc/pad combinations), but all are now coupled with booster upgrades purely for how well it works. Braided lines up front between the frame and front axle make a difference, the rear not so much. Setting the proportional valve makes a far greater difference.

The shops (which I own) go through roughly 60 70 series' per month and I'm primarly in the workshop or with clients, so I think I see, drive and work on more 70 series Cruisers than many vendors do. We are transparent that they are very prone to squeals also, especially the Hilux variants for some reason. We don't really do other vehicle brands' brake upgrades and leave that to others.

Keep in mind, we do not live in a nanny state so we drive at excessive speeds with very heavily weighed down vehicles and/or trailers making far greater power numbers than stock.

 

[JoeMama]

We buy from Powerbrake South Africa so it's no guarantee that the calipers are the same. They use pads from a Maserati Quattroporte and come in redor grey if that helps. 17" or larger wheels are required. We exclusively make use of Powerbrake components.

I own 2 VDJ79's with Powerbrake's BBK kits and we do 2/3 per month commercially (vs 9+ with "regular slotted/vented disc/pad combinations), but all are now coupled with booster upgrades purely for how well it works. Braided lines up front between the frame and front axle make a difference, the rear not so much. Setting the proportional valve makes a far greater difference.

The shops (which I own) go through roughly 60 70 series' per month and I'm primarly in the workshop or with clients, so I think I see, drive and work on more 70 series Cruisers than many vendors do. We are transparent that they are very prone to squeals also, especially the Hilux variants for some reason. We don't really do other vehicle brands' brake upgrades and leave that to others.

Keep in mind, we do not live in a nanny state so we drive at excessive speeds with very heavily weighed down vehicles and/or trailers making far greater power numbers than stock.

Thanks so much for the detailed response, it is greatly appreciated.

 

[locklaw]

Thanks so much for the detailed response, it is greatly appreciated.

Happy to help and good luck with your brake upgrade. Ultimately, everything helps a bit and with the right combination you get a significant improvement.

 

[prwillard2]

2 inch mattress pad and down duvet fit with no issues on the "high roof" version.

 

[prwillard2]

Installed the upgraded booster and new master cylinder this weekend.

Relatively straight forward, booster only installs one way through the firewall.

For the master make sure you "bench bleed" the master to get out any air bubbles.

Make sure you measure how far out to have the rod from the booster that pushes into the master cylinder. I set mine too short and was getting poor brake performance and a "whooshing sound" pressing the brake pedal. Once I adjusted it, brakes work much better now and immediate response upon pushing the brake pedal.

You'll need to get the extended clevis linked above to get the right length with the 80 series booster.

 

[prwillard2]

I also moved my LPSV down a 1/4 inch after my 2 inch lift.

My bolts were not frozen, so lucky me.

Loosen two bolts, move down 1/4", retighten.

I also bled mine after adjustment.

 

[prwillard2]

Started working my fit out!

Upright 85L fridge on the right hand side.

Planning to do a pull out kitchen on the left side.

 

[prwillard2]

I'm starting to do my fitout build.

Lots of 80/20 on the way to my location. I'm using this on the floor : Luxury Liner Pro™ Sheet - MLV + Foam - https://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-blocking/luxury-liner-pro

What is everyone using for flooring? And how are you attaching it to the vehicle floor?

Left side will be a slide out kitchen on a 60" long slider. Right side will have the fridge. Not sure if I should have the bench seat in the back on the right or left side.

Need to incorporate a trelino toilet, but not sure if I should do the U shape or have an aisle to the front seats.

Electrical cabinet will be behind the passenger seat

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I'm not sure what the 'standard' is for floor/cabinet mounting, but I put riv-nuts in my vehicle's floor and attached a sheet of plywood to the riv-nuts. I also added some track down the center to tie stuff down. I've yet to build any cabinets, just a support/platform for my fridge.

 

[prwillard2]

I'm not sure what the 'standard' is for floor/cabinet mounting, but I put riv-nuts in my vehicle's floor and attached a sheet of plywood to the riv-nuts. I also added some track down the center to tie stuff down. I've yet to build any cabinets, just a support/platform for my fridge.

Thanks brother!

Did you put any sort of sealant, etc around your rivnuts to prevent water intrusion, etc?

 

[Felde]

Hi
I did same like @Owyhee Jackass . Birch plywood coated with a transparent boat enamel is durable, easy to fix (scratches) and looks really nice.
I drilled the holes for the rivnuts, put some paint on the bare metal, and dipped the rivnut in grease before installing it.
Cheers Ralf

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

No sealant, just used anti-seize on the bolts. I did have to pull it up after a few years and ended up replacing it with new pieces that I treated with some outdoor Varathane. And every one of the bolts came out with no issue. I had water damage from putting my snowboard away with snow on it and the snow melted down into the bottom of the wood...need to transport my board differently this season.

Now that I have some left-over Sikaflex as well as some seam sealer from my gutters, I may use some of it on future exterior riv-nut installations. Probably good insurance.

 

[prwillard2]

As I begin to design my electrical system, I'm curious what others think in terms of "must haves" and "nice to haves" in their troopy.

I know I need to add USBs in the rear, up in the pop top, and also some cigarette lighter outlets.

I'm using the Egon DC Hub as the base of my system.

 

[Loober]

Not familiar with the Egon, but a system like the Spod or switchpros is the way to go these days for controlling circuits. They are solid state, so no relays are fuses to worry about. Lots of features integrated for monitoring and controlling through an app. Best part is no needing to run wires inside the cab for switches, everything is through one ethernet cable.

It works good for 24v vehicles that use 12v accessories, it takes both, so you can use 24v switched power to activate 12v accessories that are fed from your 12v battery system.

 

[prwillard2]

Not familiar with the Egon, but a system like the Spod or switchpros is the way to go these days for controlling circuits. They are solid state, so no relays are fuses to worry about. Lots of features integrated for monitoring and controlling through an app. Best part is no needing to run wires inside the cab for switches, everything is through one ethernet cable.

It works good for 24v vehicles that use 12v accessories, it takes both, so you can use 24v switched power to activate 12v accessories that are fed from your 12v battery system.

This is not a switching system for turning on lights, etc.

This is the development of my house electrical system for my build out in the rear to incorporate my house battery, inverter, solar, etc.