Builds Oman -> SoCal 1995 FZJ75 Troopy (2 Viewers)

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Thank you for this! Looks terrific!

How do you like having the full U shape vice a spot where you can get through from between the two front seats?

Are you willing to share your cabinet dimensions, etc with me? I'm also building using extruded aluminum.

Also, how did you make the drawers flush to the face of your extrusion? I'm also looking to design mine like this.
Thank you! I put a lot of thought in to the layout and how best to make the space work for how I anticipated us using it, with the focus being 2-People and 4-Seasons. Spent many months using the Troopy without the interior build out, playing around with the space to see how we would use it in real world use.

The U-Shape works very well for us. The Lagun table is taken only when we want to bring it along, otherwise can be removed and left at home. Most of the warmer months, it is left at home and we do most everything outside of the Troopy. Colder months we move indoors and the U-shape and the Lagun table allows for additional space and the ability to swing a table between two people for meals or games, etc. It also allows for additional prep space for meal prep and swings out of the way with ease.

The U-Shape also allows us to use the 'downstairs' for sleeping space. Not shown in the earlier photos is the additional cousins and folding out bed platform. My 16yr old son and I regularly take trips and he sleeps 'downstairs' and I sleep 'upstairs' - it's amazing use of such a small overall space. My wife and I have slept downstairs as well, in one particular high wind event. Closed up the top and slept below - was far a better sleep than getting battered all night in the wind.

I never had the intention to leave the isle open to the front cabin area. Storage is at such a premium for two people, that I wanted to capture and utilize every bit I could. 2x 100Ah LifePO4 batteries sit on the LH side floor behind the seat (with space to add a 3rd battery - if needed) and the wiring crosses over to behind the RH seat to the Redarc components and inverter. Photo show before with batteries installed and wired up - after is all inclosed with paneling.

As you will notice, I kept the cabinet high to a minimum, with the RH side being higher, but topping out below the height of the sliding window latches. I wanted the light, unobstructed view out of all windows (no blind spots) and airflow for the warmer months.
I also elected to have all the drawers open to the isle. This again was intentional for 4-season use. If it's cold or wet outside and we're inside, drawers open in and is completely accessible. They are also 100% accessible from the outside, without having to climb in. Drawer height was all optimized for certain common dimension for induction burner width, cutting board storage, canned goods, etc.

I hand built the drawers out of aluminum. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade and hate wood! Therefore, there is only three pieces of wood in the whole build - Plywood for the subfloor, a wood cutting board that is supplied in the Front Runner barn door drop down table and a teak cutting board we mounted on top the Lagun table. The cabinets are 100% aluminum and are wrapped in 3m vinyl. Counter tops are Stainless Steel.

I have a 10 liter DC hot water heater, indoor faucet and outdoor shower tap. Water is filtered through a Guzzle H20 system. I elected to bypass having a built in (fixed) sink to save the wasted space a sink takes up, but rather use collapsable sinks when necessary. The faucet swivels over the back of the cabinet with the back door open to fill larger items or water bladders, etc. I also connect a silicone hose to the faucet and wash dishes on the drop down table on the barn door.

We went single fuel (diesel) and all electrical for hot water, DC oven and induction cooking, etc - no propane. Multiple A/C outlets for induction cooking inside, back barn door or MaxTrax table.

I would highly recommend buying a chop saw for cutting your extruded aluminum with. I found it cheaper to buy the extrusion from Tnutz.com and shipping was cheapest in shorter lengths. Therefore I tried to have the dimensions I needed already cut from Tnutz, but inevitably you will likely tweak parts of the build our add things as you go. Having the chop saw with a blade for aluminum made a huge difference in doing it right. Linked below is the saw and blade I used. Cuts are clean and no filing/de-burring is needed.


Anyway, one of these days when life slows down, I will do a build thread and do my best to lay out my build. As I stated in the last post, 18 months in to the completed build and I can say there is nothing I would change.

Feel free to DM and I can run you through some ideas on a phone call or video call.
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I replaced my OEM steering wheel with a Nardi today, but realize I didn't take a finish picture.

While I was in there...

I've been having problems with intermittent starting. Sometimes she fires right up on first key turn, other times it's click, click, click, finally fires up. I'd done some research and some had said it's the starter contacts, other said it was the ignition key assembly. So I installed a new ignition switch. Didn't make a difference unfortunately. I have a new rebuilt denso starter I'll replace eventually.

8445060261SWITCH ASSY, IGNITION OR STARTER

To get to this assembly, you'll also need to remove the headlight/wipers relay. Mine were super dirty/worn and had no labels from being 30 years old. I also replaced this.

8431060561SWITCH ASSY, TURN SIGNAL

The steering wheel adaptor for the Nardi is:

Steering Wheel Adapter HKB SPORTS Boss Kit 84-96 Toyota Land Cruiser 70 Serieshttps://www.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrder...=0&osub=-1~1&crd=20241015120053&segname=11400

The steering wheel I went with is:

Nardi Classic - 360mm (Black Perforated Leather / Black Spoke / Red Stitch)

Was good to get in there and get all this replaced, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the horn to fit in the space in the middle of the steering wheel.

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Finally got the horn button installed. I was just being too gentle, need to use a small pick to push in the retaining tab to enable the horn button to slide into the recess.

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Started working the install for my 270 awning, but first I need to add the awning brackets to the troopy.

Kind of unique how they install, will have a full writeup once I get all the stainless hardware in for the install.

Drilling more holes into my troopy is not high on my list but it must be done.

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Installed the OVS XD 270 awning on the Alu-innovations awning brackets.

Lots of swearing while installing the brackets, nearly impossible to put a good washer and nut on the bolts going through the roof of the truck.

Eventually got it there.

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Probably, as long as you use the right nutsert and get it to grip. One issue with these top installs, is there's a lip of the old top inside the flange of the new top (what you 'glue' the new top to) so you have that to deal with getting any hardware installed low on the new roof line. Even a nutsert might foul on the inner lip of the troopy's old top.
 
Would a nutsert be strong enough for that situation?
Probably, as long as you use the right nutsert and get it to grip. One issue with these top installs, is there's a lip of the old top inside the flange of the new top (what you 'glue' the new top to) so you have that to deal with getting any hardware installed low on the new roof line. Even a nutsert might foul on the inner lip of the troopy's old top.
This is exactly the issue I had. Bottom bolts required a stainless rivnut. The top mounting bolts I was able to get a nut in there for 3 of the 6 bolts, the other 3 got rivnuts.

Dropped about 10 stainless flanged bolts into the body panels so I'm sure they'll work their way down eventually.
 
I've been looking for a while and was able to finally find a 3d modeling software that allowed me to make rough drafts of things in 80/20 aluminum that didn't have a long learning curve. Ended up using the 8020 website modeling tool called IdeaBuilder, which is located at ideabuilder.io

For my build I've got an 18.5" high bench on the left side that will house a 60" pull out drawer that has my kitchen on it - similar to the ARB pullout kitchen. I'm sure we've all seen examples of this, seems to be the new hotness. The left side will also have storage behind the driver's seat, with a trap door opening for a large storage space that's about 14"x16".

The right side is storage for my fridge and my "dresser". 28.5" high with three large shelves in the middle of the troopy. Approx 30" wide, 8" tall, and 14"-18" deep. The large cutout is the fridge.

The first picture is the location of the drawers - they're in gray.

The second picture is what the insides of the system looks like using 8020. I'm 99% sure I used way too may brackets but at least it should be sturdy. The best part of the 8020 Ideabuilder is that it gives you the ability to do a bill of materials and import this BOM straight to their website. Plus, they'll cut everything exact for you how you have it built.

The Ideabuilder file if a JSON file if anyone wants to take a closer look or see if I messed up anywhere. Shoot me a DM and I'll share the file via google drive.

Thoughts? What am I missing or forgetting?

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This is pretty cool. One thing worth considering is locations where you may need to "trim to fit" actual dimensions. Rather than having them precut every single piece. Or buy some extra in uncut lengths so you can tailor the solution as you build it. It's one thing to draw things like this in CAD... it's another to fit it into an awkward interior like a Troopy.
 
This is pretty cool. One thing worth considering is locations where you may need to "trim to fit" actual dimensions. Rather than having them precut every single piece. Or buy some extra in uncut lengths so you can tailor the solution as you build it. It's one thing to draw things like this in CAD... it's another to fit it into an awkward interior like a Troopy.
Absolutely agree Joel. The curves on the troopy make me worried about the long runs all fitting in nicely.

I'll probably get all these precut by 8020 because of the precision, then see what doesn't fit and modify.

Will absolutely need to have some stock that is in reserve to make mods!
 
Absolutely agree Joel. The curves on the troopy make me worried about the long runs all fitting in nicely.

I'll probably get all these precut by 8020 because of the precision, then see what doesn't fit and modify.

Will absolutely need to have some stock that is in reserve to make mods!
Due to the height of your RH cabinet and the taper of the Aft RH interior corner, you will need to modify the aft RH corner of your cabinet for sure. The other bench height should fit pretty square, provided you don't exceed about 20'' (I don't have my Troopy in front of me to measure at the moment).

Depending how you intend to assemble the 80/20, you may also have to get creative on getting the structure inside without too much drama.

The Evolution chop saw is the way to go for cutting the extrusion. Clean cuts without the need to file burrs😊🤙🏽
 
Officially ordered the 80/20 to build my fitout. Expecting to have to make some slight modifications thanks @JoeMama and @Honger for the heads up. I have the Evolution chop saw, but hoping I don't have to make many cuts myself.

Doubtful I'll get this from 8020 that fast and then have time to get this installed before Overland Expo SoCal but will see what I can do.

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Officially ordered the 80/20 to build my fitout. Expecting to have to make some slight modifications thanks @JoeMama and @Honger for the heads up. I have the Evolution chop saw, but hoping I don't have to make many cuts myself.

Doubtful I'll get this from 8020 that fast and then have time to get this installed before Overland Expo SoCal but will see what I can do.

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You can easily trim the 80/20 with an all metal blade in a chop saw. Your extrusion will be like this anyway, i.e. Pre-anodized and post cut/threaded. If you buy a 2 flute tap for aluminum (McMaster Carr) you can tap your end holes deeper. Also, use Tap Magic for aluminum to make it a breeze.
All this, of course, if you need trimming at all.
Sweet work!
 
Parts I ordered up to 6 months ago have started to arrive!

Got the drivers side 80/20 about 95% assembled, now to see if I measured correctly in the back of the troopy.

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So I got the drivers side all built with 80/20 and went to fit it into the back of the troopy.

Fit really well, most of my "guesstimates" ended up working out!

I've got 20.5" left to play with on the right side, unfortunately I had everything built for a 21" right hand side 🤦🏻‍♂️

Will trim down the aisle to be 13.5" wide vice 14" wide and call it good.

Makes me only have to cut down the 4 pieces of 80/20 at the end of the aisle versus the 50 on the passenger side.

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