Builds Oman -> SoCal 1995 FZJ75 Troopy

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why are you doubling up on the solar controller?
I am running 2x 200W solar panels in parallel on the roof. The other Anderson connector will be for a solar blanket that I can plug into the utility vent on the side of the vehicle.

The MMPT is just an added bonus for the Renogy DCDC charger, hence why I am running another MMPT controller from Victron for the roof solar.
 
so your a gadget freak,,,, same reason your running both HAM and GMRS, nothin wrong with that. i'm not critiquing your setup, i'm just observing the build of a TROOPY!!!

carry on my man.
 
so your a gadget freak,,,, same reason your running both HAM and GMRS, nothin wrong with that. i'm not critiquing your setup, i'm just observing the build of a TROOPY!!!

carry on my man.
Only the best gadgets in my troopy!

Currently trying to figure out which nespresso machine uses the least amount of current...
 
Only the best gadgets in my troopy!

Currently trying to figure out which nespresso machine uses the least amount of current...
Can’t see a downside to running both.
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wouldnt that be an Aeropress? have you seen the new one? all glass and stainless.
I have several aeropresses. The nespresso machine looks like the picture attached.

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I am running 2x 200W solar panels in parallel on the roof. The other Anderson connector will be for a solar blanket that I can plug into the utility vent on the side of the vehicle.

The MMPT is just an added bonus for the Renogy DCDC charger, hence why I am running another MMPT controller from Victron for the roof solar.
For what it's worth, I decided against putting solar on the roof - for a couple reasons.
1. Limits what else I can carry up there e.g., paddle/surf boards, roof top storage box, etc
2. Angle of the roof when open is not optimal for solar gain, unless you keep clocking it towards the sun.
3. When possible, I try to park in the shade and run a solar blanket to the sun and chase the sun with the blanket throughout the day. Went with a Made in the USA Overland Solar Bugout 130w. Bugout™ 130 Portable Solar Charger - https://www.overlandsolar.com/collections/portable-solar-panels/products/bugout-130-rugged-solar-charger
4. When you will be best suited for solar gain is with the roof stowed and likely traveling down the road, in which your alternator will out perform a roof full of panels all day long.
 
For what it's worth, I decided against putting solar on the roof - for a couple reasons.
1. Limits what else I can carry up there e.g., paddle/surf boards, roof top storage box, etc
2. Angle of the roof when open is not optimal for solar gain, unless you keep clocking it towards the sun.
3. When possible, I try to park in the shade and run a solar blanket to the sun and chase the sun with the blanket throughout the day. Went with a Made in the USA Overland Solar Bugout 130w. Bugout™ 130 Portable Solar Charger - https://www.overlandsolar.com/collections/portable-solar-panels/products/bugout-130-rugged-solar-charger
4. When you will be best suited for solar gain is with the roof stowed and likely traveling down the road, in which your alternator will out perform a roof full of panels all day long.
This is a good assessment and definitely something I hadn't fully considered. Appreciate your input and personal experience!
 
Just curious your travel plans that made you decide on the 85l upright fridge?
You know, I just hate the idea of a chest fridge. Stuff stacks on things, etc.

I'm not planning on doing a ton of crazy wheeling in this troopy, this fridge is designed for boats, vans, semi's, etc. I have seen several troopy builds with an upright fridge and figured I'd give it a shot.

I may regret it, but I don't think I will.
 
I'm starting to do my fitout build.

Lots of 80/20 on the way to my location. I'm using this on the floor : Luxury Liner Pro™ Sheet - MLV + Foam - https://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-blocking/luxury-liner-pro

What is everyone using for flooring? And how are you attaching it to the vehicle floor?

Left side will be a slide out kitchen on a 60" long slider. Right side will have the fridge. Not sure if I should have the bench seat in the back on the right or left side.

Need to incorporate a trelino toilet, but not sure if I should do the U shape or have an aisle to the front seats.

Electrical cabinet will be behind the passenger seat

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I used 1/2 inch plywood, which I sealed, then used a single sheet of vinyl flooring glued to the plywood. The intent was to create as much of a sealed interior floor as possible, with only the holes through the vinyl and plywood being only place for water intrusion from above.

I used stainless steel 1/4-20 riv-nuts sealed around the edges with Sika 291 sealant. Anti-seize used on the stainless steel bolt threads for anti-galling protection. The 1/4-20 bolts went through my extruded aluminum cabinet framework to securely attached the framework and plywood to the Troopy floor.

For sound deadening I used Second Skin sprayed on the floor and inside the walls. Walls were then filled with Havelock wool batts for added sound deadening and insulation. For the floor, I also added strips of Luxury Liner Pro for added insulation value, but left gaps in the flooring for breathability in the event moisture was to form, it had a means to ventilate (hopefully).

18 months post build completion and I wouldn't change a thing. Cabinets have been rock solid, no rattles or loose junctions. Vinyl floor is soft and comfortable to walk or kneel on and the clean-up is easy and practical.
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You know, I just hate the idea of a chest fridge. Stuff stacks on things, etc.

I'm not planning on doing a ton of crazy wheeling in this troopy, this fridge is designed for boats, vans, semi's, etc. I have seen several troopy builds with an upright fridge and figured I'd give it a shot.

I may regret it, but I don't think I will.
Copy that! I know a lot of Aussie's have been going the way of the upright.

I have a National Luna 52L chest that has supported 2x adults and 2x kids for 7-day remote trips and have found the best way to keep the fridge running efficiently is to have it filled. So, for example when you remove something like a drink in a can, fill the void with another warm can and the fridge will be able to maintain the temperature with more efficiency versus having gaps or voids in the fridge and the fridge trying to maintain the temp without the mass. That was the benefit I saw with a chest fridge, you can pack the voids whereas upright its more difficult.
 
Copy that! I know a lot of Aussie's have been going the way of the upright.

I have a National Luna 52L chest that has supported 2x adults and 2x kids for 7-day remote trips and have found the best way to keep the fridge running efficiently is to have it filled. So, for example when you remove something like a drink in a can, fill the void with another warm can and the fridge will be able to maintain the temperature with more efficiency versus having gaps or voids in the fridge and the fridge trying to maintain the temp without the mass. That was the benefit I saw with a chest fridge, you can pack the voids whereas upright its more difficult.
Also stands to reason that when you open the door on a vertical fridge much of the cold air escapes, whereas with a top-opening fridge the cold air stays trapped when the lid is open.
 
I used 1/2 inch plywood, which I sealed, then used a single sheet of vinyl flooring glued to the plywood. The intent was to create as much of a sealed interior floor as possible, with only the holes through the vinyl and plywood being only place for water intrusion from above.

I used stainless steel 1/4-20 riv-nuts sealed around the edges with Sika 291 sealant. Anti-seize used on the stainless steel bolt threads for anti-galling protection. The 1/4-20 bolts went through my extruded aluminum cabinet framework to securely attached the framework and plywood to the Troopy floor.

For sound deadening I used Second Skin sprayed on the floor and inside the walls. Walls were then filled with Havelock wool batts for added sound deadening and insulation. For the floor, I also added strips of Luxury Liner Pro for added insulation value, but left gaps in the flooring for breathability in the event moisture was to form, it had a means to ventilate (hopefully).

18 months post build completion and I wouldn't change a thing. Cabinets have been rock solid, no rattles or loose junctions. Vinyl floor is soft and comfortable to walk or kneel on and the clean-up is easy and practical. View attachment 3762796View attachment 3762797View attachment 3762798View attachment 3762799View attachment 3762800
Thank you for this! Looks terrific!

How do you like having the full U shape vice a spot where you can get through from between the two front seats?

Are you willing to share your cabinet dimensions, etc with me? I'm also building using extruded aluminum.

Also, how did you make the drawers flush to the face of your extrusion? I'm also looking to design mine like this.
 

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