Builds Oman -> SoCal 1995 FZJ75 Troopy (3 Viewers)

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Thanks Juan. I will look for those threads. Any idea on the part numbers for the battery cabling? Partsouq was showing no longer available.
Hello,

As mentioned above, ToyoDIY.com is a good resource for parts.

Many 75 Series parts are discontinued. Check parts for a 78 Series, if you cannot find an available one. Most parts fit.

Part number for a post-1999 positive terminal: 82675-60030.

Part number for a post-1999 negative cable: 82123-60092.

Disclaimer: these part numbers are for a post-1999 model year truck.






Juan
 
Welp, my drivers side foot well has some rust. Quite a bit it would seem. How difficult will this be to correct?

Last two are the underside, I have no idea what is going on in pic 3, that's under the vehicle looking up at the footwells near the running board mount.

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Spoke too soon. Passenger side has some additional pinholing, but in better shape than the drivers.

Luckily, the bed and back of the truck seem rust free for now.

My previous owner seems to have added something electrical as well to the vehicle.

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i think its looking pretty good if that the brunt of the rust, repair is to cut and weld in new patches, alternative is to simply try a rust stop product and cross your fingers.
 
Continued to try and find more rust on the floors, whoever found out the dry ice trick to remove the OEM sound dreading is a damn genius.

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With the sound dreading gone, was able to find what I think is all the rust.

Quite a bit of rust on the drivers side floor, and looks like it starts creeping up the firewall. Believe this can be fixed with a small patch though.

Passenger side has far less, but still some concerns including the portion right below where the passenger seat mounts.

Is it worth it to buy an entire floor pan to replace? One currently available from Japan online.


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Replacing the entire floor pan would be a big task and shipping one would cost more than the part. I'd go with something like this, not sure if there's a domestic supplier, these are from Aus but description says that they'll ship to the U.S. I need to do mine too, but have to fix the windshield frame/leak first as that's the source for the water in my floor pans. Take a close look around your windshield too, these are notorious for leaking there.
 
Replacing the entire floor pan would be a big task and shipping one would cost more than the part. I'd go with something like this, not sure if there's a domestic supplier, these are from Aus but description says that they'll ship to the U.S. I need to do mine too, but have to fix the windshield frame/leak first as that's the source for the water in my floor pans. Take a close look around your windshield too, these are notorious for leaking there.
Thanks for this! Do you have any pics of where to look around the windshield?
 
Continued scrubbing and discovery has found this hairline Crack with some pinholing near the drivers side body mount. Will I need the entire body removed from the frame to fix this? Looks like a relatively easy patch.

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My temperature gauge in my dash cluster isn't working. Not sure if the sender/probe is bad or something larger is afoot with my cluster.

Not sure which probe I would need:

8342016040: Gauge Assembly Water Temperature Sender
OR
8942860080: Switch, Temperature Detect

I cannot a cable that connects the temp to the dash cluster. I'm surely missing something here.

Anyone got any ideas?

Website here: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...rc5zg==$&vid=0&cid=&uid=366202&q=FZJ750027904
 
Should be this one: 83420-16040 Gauge Assembly Water Temperature Sender.
The wiring diagram I have shows a Yellow/Green wire going into plug B pin 11 on the gauge cluster.
 
New floor pan rust panel replacements from Australia arrived. Great fitment and the excess from the good parts of my pans should be able to help extend up the firewall. Thickness is just over 1.0mm so 18 to 20 gauge it would seem.

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I'm planning to do one big order tomorrow from megazip in Japan for some final parts. My belts in my engine bay are starting to dry rot, is there a recommended kit, etc to do when changing the belts?

Any recommendations for things people think I'm going to need that I'm not thinking about right now?
 
I'm planning to do one big order tomorrow from megazip in Japan for some final parts. My belts in my engine bay are starting to dry rot, is there a recommended kit, etc to do when changing the belts?

Any recommendations for things people think I'm going to need that I'm not thinking about right now?

Belts are stupid cheap from Toyota.

90916-02353-83 (2 belt set)
99332-10910-83 (if you have AC).

I'd also change the idler pulley: 16604-66010 and the AC pulley: 88440-26090

Again, all available globally.
 
Belts are stupid cheap from Toyota.

90916-02353-83 (2 belt set)
99332-10910-83 (if you have AC).

I'd also change the idler pulley: 16604-66010 and the AC pulley: 88440-26090

Again, all available globally.
@OGBeno will the belts/pulley differ from a 1FZ-F vice 1FZ-FE? I have AC.
 
So I'll post up a full parts list here this weekend, as quite a few have been trickling in.

However, this bad boy arrived from Japan today. In one piece despite the lackluster packaging.

I wanted the older style that said TOYOTA on the grille vice the current sombrero grille I have.

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