Builds Oman -> SoCal 1995 FZJ75 Troopy (3 Viewers)

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So I got the drivers side all built with 80/20 and went to fit it into the back of the troopy.

Fit really well, most of my "guesstimates" ended up working out!

I've got 20.5" left to play with on the right side, unfortunately I had everything built for a 21" right hand side 🤦🏻‍♂️

Will trim down the aisle to be 13.5" wide vice 14" wide and call it good.

Makes me only have to cut down the 4 pieces of 80/20 vice at the end of the aisle versus the 50 on the passenger side.

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Do you have any vertical supports mid-span for the upper portion of the bench?
 
Currently no. Figured with 1/2" baltic Birch on top I wouldn't need it.

You think I should add one?
It might help to tighten up the frame structure and prevent some squeaking down the road. I prolly went over-kill on mine.
 
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Finally got both sides assembled. Need to make a minor adjustment to the right side by moving one leg back and giving the wheel well a good smack withthe dead blow, but fits well now.

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Before finishing the build out, figured it was smart to get the LRA 40 gal spare installed.

However, it says I need to put a T into the OEM filler hose. Will I need to drop the main tank to get to this? I also have no idea where rhe main tank vent line is.

I already chopped off my exhaust behind the right front wheel 🤣 so I have plenty of access now.

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Check out my thread for some insight into the tee. I purchased a new section of factory hose where I put the tee to transfer fuel as the old hose was not very pliable.

As far as the main tank vent, I think it goes to atmosphere via a fitting that plugs into the frame, so not sure your really need to tee into the main tank vent. I just vented to atmosphere at the rear tank.
 
So after reading your thread @Owyhee Jackass I went ahead and bout and entirely new neck filler assembly and the other parts from mega zip.

Diving into the pictures on partsouq helped me realize where I needed to connect to.

I think I'm going to still drop the main tank and put in a new fuel float, mine only works half the time.

Contemplating not cutting a hole in my rear quartpanel but rather seeing if I can put a dual filler in the single OEM spot like they do for the 200 series LRA tanks.

If not, will ha e to figure out how I want to cut into my rear panel, the LRA has a filler that is farther back than the OEM sub tank.

Where did you source the fuel filler sheet metal from?

I will probably run a vent line somewhere via a check valve as well with some sort of cap/filter on it. Seeing the 200 installs their charcoal filters get clogged a lot.
 
I went through Dave at Japan 4x4 for the fuel filler box. Be forewarned, it took a loooong time (like a couple months) and several emails and I ended up with some extra parts. Not sure if that's typical or not, but he did get what I needed and I couldn't find it elsewhere.
 
Didn't want to cut into the Toyota blank plate to the right of the steering wheel for mounting the aux tank gauge and pump button.

Spent a couple hours designing and 3d printed a replacement that seems quite sturdy.

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Dropped off the troopy yesterday for some of the final work that I didn't feel comfortable with doing myself - slider step build, sniper install, and rebuilding/dramatic shortening of the exhaust to dump out in front of my passenger front tire.

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Sliders going to powdercoat on Monday!

These won't be used for rock crawling, but will provide significant body protection.

Sniper complete as well, should be able to pick up the truck Monday!

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Those sliders look great!
Thanks! I've been discussing with the builder the fact that no one stateside makes them for 70 series. He may be able to make more for a decent price!
 
Thanks! I've been discussing with the builder the fact that no one stateside makes them for 70 series. He may be able to make more for a decent price!
Yes!
 
Sniper install complete! Mess of vacuum hoses removed.

Need to work where the gauge sits inside the cab, but for now I wait on sliders headed to powdercoat. Pickup delayed to next week unfortunately.

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Wondering if you’ve considered rattle can on the sliders over powdercoat? Our Power Wagon sliders came raw metal and we opted for rattle can, which worked out great because we’ve already had to touch up the paint a few times. My wife likes OC shoes with big gaps in the sole that gravel gets stuck in and scratches them up ☠️
 
Wondering if you’ve considered rattle can on the sliders over powdercoat? Our Power Wagon sliders came raw metal and we opted for rattle can, which worked out great because we’ve already had to touch up the paint a few times. My wife likes OC shoes with big gaps in the sole that gravel gets stuck in and scratches them up ☠️
My wife doesn't ride in this vehicle, so don't need to worry about that. Powdercoat currently in progress so too late now.

I get what you're saying, but I've got powdercoat on my dissent steps on my 200 and it's held up great. I think a lot of it depends on the powdercoat thickness.
 
Please post up what you think of the Sniper on that engine. I had one on my FJ40, and it was great. Now I'm on the fence about installing it on the FZJ75 because the new carb performs well and isn't grumpy like the carb on my old 40.
 
Please post up what you think of the Sniper on that engine. I had one on my FJ40, and it was great. Now I'm on the fence about installing it on the FZJ75 because the new carb performs well and isn't grumpy like the carb on my old 40.
Absolutely! I needed a carb rebuild on mine, but never got around to it. I'm hopeful the sniper will improve on my 9.5mpg number.
 

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