Builds Old Landy: An HJ45 Story/Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[OGBeno]

Those are definitely nasty wear marks. A machine shop could grind them down evenly probably, but would need to be within tolerance per the FSM.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Those are definitely nasty wear marks. A machine shop could grind them down evenly probably, but would need to be within tolerance per the FSM.

Yep. New ones need to look like this. Touché. @beno thanks for clarifying. Do you carry these and lifters? I will get a more complete list of needs after complete tear down and drop you a line for an order.

 

[OGBeno]

Please contact me directly CD.



Thank you.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Will do. Let me get our “needs, not wants” list together so it is more efficient for you.

 

[gerg]

That is showing wear. Some folks have them machined smooth again but I would think they should be rehardened if you do that. Some of them don't look that bad but there are a few that look deep. Like most if the exhaust ones. I'd be hunting for replacements or looking at having them reground and hardened. Might be cheaper to source another assembly.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

That is showing wear. Some folks have them machined smooth again but I would think they should be rehardened if you do that. Some of them don't look that bad but there are a few that look deep. Like most if the exhaust ones. I'd be hunting for replacements or looking at having them reground and hardened. Might be cheaper to source another assembly.

On the list to buy arms.

 

[Cowboy45]

That is showing wear. Some folks have them machined smooth again but I would think they should be rehardened if you do that. Some of them don't look that bad but there are a few that look deep. Like most if the exhaust ones. I'd be hunting for replacements or looking at having them reground and hardened. Might be cheaper to source another assembly.

Like all of you are saying there seems to be some wear and tear, but we thought it just might be how it is. Thanks for the clarification every one.

 

[Cowboy45]

This is kind of a off topic question but I never know how to differentiate between the early and late model 2H's, and what is the difference, and, or preference.

 

[FJBen]

This is kind of a off topic question but I never know how to differentiate between the early and late model 2H's, and what is the difference, and, or preference.

One of the main difference with the early vs late 2H is early 2H had sleeves/liners where as the later didn’t.

I prefer a sleeved engine as you can just replace the sleeves and stay with the standard bore and piston size. Without sleeves you have to bore the cylinders out which there is a limit to. That said, you are usually fine boring it out as long as there are Pistons available for that size.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

One of the main difference with the early vs late 2H is early 2H had sleeves/liners where as the later didn’t.

I prefer a sleeved engine as you can just replace the sleeves and stay with the standard bore and piston size. Without sleeves you have to bore the cylinders out which there is a limit to. That said, you are usually fine boring it out as long as there are Pistons available for that size.

That’s our next thing. Bore measurements. It will define the next step on the rebuild.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

This is kind of a off topic question but I never know how to differentiate between the early and late model 2H's, and what is the difference, and, or preference.

@Cowboy45 look at thread below. It has good information on early vs late 2H differences

Identifying 2H engine

Pics at the end of the thread help a lot. Early type has liners.

 

[FJBen]

I took my rocker arm to the machine shop yesterday after this thread to just see what the machinist thinks about mine. He said absolutely no issues at all fixing them. I only have one that looks "deep" but he said no issues at all.

The worst one

@Cowboy45
You can save money at machine shop by just bringing the rocker arms rather than whole setup. The less take apart the shop has to do, the better for you. That said, make sure the arms aren't specific to the position, the 13BT all look the same although I'm going to take pictures and make sure its all back the same afterwards.

 

[Cowboy45]

One of the main difference with the early vs late 2H is early 2H had sleeves/liners where as the later didn’t.

I prefer a sleeved engine as you can just replace the sleeves and stay with the standard bore and piston size. Without sleeves you have to bore the cylinders out which there is a limit to. That said, you are usually fine boring it out as long as there are Pistons available for that size.

Can you add sleeves to the late models, or can they only be put on the early models?

 

[FJBen]

Can you add sleeves to the late models, or can they only be put on the early models?

You can, but you really only need to do that if the cylinder bore is too far out of spec.

Generally on a non-sleeved block, you bore it if there is damage/wear, then fit the appropriate sized piston. If you can't find a piston for the larger bore, or it's too far out of spec, you can sleeve it then run the standard size or maybe slightly oversize piston.

In your case, I wouldn't sleeve it unless you absolutely have to.

Best case: cylinders just need honed/cleaned. $
Next best: bore cylinders, use oversize pistons if need. $$
later option: bore/sleeve cylinders appropriate pistons $$$
last option: used block go through above process .

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

@lazylfarm thanks for the info. Need to check if a machine shop can do this while meeting FSM spec. Might see if they can harden as well. Will report back.

 

[FJBen]

@lazylfarm thanks for the info. Need to check if a machine shop can do this while meeting FSM spec. Might see if they can harden as well. Will report back.

I'm not sure there is a spec. At least I'm not able to find one for my 13BT in the FSM. It basically states to "Check the valve stem contacting surface of the rocker arm for wear. If the valve stem contact surface is worn, disassemble and replace the rocker arm."

How's that for vague? The only other specs are Rocker Shaft diameter, and then oil clearance on the rocker arm to rocker shaft.

As for the hardening, I'm not sure if thats needed either. I read so much information/mis-information about cast rockers, and hardening depth and etc, etc. A good machinist will have all those answers. I asked my machine shop about will there be any issues with hardening and he said nope. I have read that same response online about cast rockers. Grind and you should be good a long time.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Yea. Just checked on 2H/12HT engine manual. No spec.

Rocker arms have absolutely no play radially. We will disassemble (maintain order and sequence) and inspect shaft for peace of mind.

 

[Cowboy45]

You can, but you really only need to do that if the cylinder bore is too far out of spec.

Generally on a non-sleeved block, you bore it if there is damage/wear, then fit the appropriate sized piston. If you can't find a piston for the larger bore, or it's too far out of spec, you can sleeve it then run the standard size or maybe slightly oversize piston.

In your case, I wouldn't sleeve it unless you absolutely have to.

Best case: cylinders just need honed/cleaned. $
Next best: bore cylinders, use oversize pistons if need. $$
later option: bore/sleeve cylinders appropriate pistons $$$

Good to know! Thank you!

 

[Cowboy45]

Today was a huge step in the engine rebuild process. As you know we have taken the head, valves, and valve springs home to measure and see if the parts are up to spec. We started off the day by measuring the squareness and height of all the springs.

 

[Cowboy45]

We also measured each valve stem and made sure they were all up to spec...