- Thread starter
- #21
Am I impatient? Yes. Was it worth dropping in an engine in the dark? Probably not. I'll look at clearances and whatnot tomorrow.
Old Faithful - LX450 2UZ Swap
- Thread starter DirtSniffer
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Back from a trip to glacier, already getting post mountain depression. Here's just a taste...
Started looking at motor mounts and having trouble getting the front of the engine over enough. It appears the hundy ac compressor is larger than the tundra/Sequoia compressor by a good bit and is interfering with the steering box. I could mount the engine at a slight angle, but that would forever bother me. I will probably try and stop at a U-Pull some time soon to rob some parts off a tundra before proceeding.
Here's is my setup with a hundy compressor:
And here is someone else's with a tundra/Sequoia compressor:
Started looking at motor mounts and having trouble getting the front of the engine over enough. It appears the hundy ac compressor is larger than the tundra/Sequoia compressor by a good bit and is interfering with the steering box. I could mount the engine at a slight angle, but that would forever bother me. I will probably try and stop at a U-Pull some time soon to rob some parts off a tundra before proceeding.
Here's is my setup with a hundy compressor:
And here is someone else's with a tundra/Sequoia compressor:
- Thread starter
- #23
Played around a bit more before too dark. I removed the compressor and am just going to hope and pray the smaller tundra compressor will fit. I don't need it too much further over than I can get with the hundy one. Worst case, I could probably make a spacer for the steering box. Would prefer not to though. I then found the dipstick hits the motor mount, I have removed it and will bend it to fit with the mounts bolted up on the stand. I then had issues getting the engine level. Found the cause, tcase actuator is hitting the floor. Will need some massaging with a BFH to fit. I'll have to decide how to most easily deal with this for the time being without removing everything.
suzuguru
SILVER Star
I also have the steelies, and I'm not enthused about how vulnerable the valve stems are. I've been thinking about moving them to the inside of the wheel. A whole heck of a lot harder to get to, but much more protected.
- Thread starter
- #25
Ended up just dropping the belly pan and was able to hammer out the floor for the actuator. It actually deformed pretty easily, small hammer did the job. Didn't have time to stop at a junk yard so just ordered a compressor off eBay, it's tested so should hopefully work. Bolted up, it just barely touches the steering box with engine centered. I may hack off the end of that lug or whatever you want to call it and use a shorter top bolt to make more room. Should be able to make mounts this weekend.
Nice 
man and i thought those A/C bolts were in a tough place in the 100 series, I don't envy your next timing belt job. Sweet work.
We're flying in from UT to visit my in laws in Corcoran over the holidays, I would love to check this out in person if you're down
We're flying in from UT to visit my in laws in Corcoran over the holidays, I would love to check this out in person if you're down
- Thread starter
- #28
AC bolts and lines will suck to work on, may require removing the steering box to access. I'll be doing timing belt among a bunch of other things before I put it in for good. Shoot me a PM when you're in town and we'll see if we can meet up.
Anyways, since I'm here I got the tube pieces cut for the mounts, will be tacking up tomorrow. Not sitting exactly where they will end up but close. Next step is to rip everything back out.
Anyways, since I'm here I got the tube pieces cut for the mounts, will be tacking up tomorrow. Not sitting exactly where they will end up but close. Next step is to rip everything back out.
Speaking of which Dan. It'll never get easier than now.
Never mind. You're on it. Proud of you.
- Thread starter
- #30
See above, it's on the list
Don't think I'll have room for twin turbos, though.
I saw. Just after I originally posted.
Twins per bank.
Quad turbo.
- Thread starter
- #32
I do want to try fit JBA headers. Maybe cut off the flange and TIG on a V-band. But it's a bit tight on drivers side. Hoping they will fit.
I was able to fit some Doug T. without any cutting. I had to do some crafty maneuvering to get them installed but they landed without any issue.
Hopefully that saves you some work...
- Thread starter
- #34
I've looked at those as well, they just cost almost twice what the JBA ones do. They do route the one front tube up and over on the driver's side, maybe for steering clearance. I'll have to look at them some more. Either way I'll want them bolted up when I drop the engine back in, driver's side will NOT be fun to squeeze in there.
Haven't made up my mind. Seems semi retarded to drop $20k on an engine for a $5k pos vehicle..... and I'd still need a tranny.
Plus. I still owe Proffitt probably $40k on paint. So that engine will be sitting in the rack a mine
Plus. I still owe Proffitt probably $40k on paint. So that engine will be sitting in the rack a mine
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A little thicker frame brace will space that steering box out a bit. May as well do it now. Much easier to do with the motor out.
@DirtSniffer question for ya! I'm doing research on a 2UZ swap too. couldn't you have just re-used your 80 transmission by swapping the bellhousing? From what I've been reading the past few days, the A343F was used in Land Cruisers from 1996-2002 between both engines with a different bellhousing. The bellhousing should be removable and you should just need to swap to the one from the 100 series transmission.
Is it easier with the ECU if you have the newer transmission or something? Thanks ahead of time!
Is it easier with the ECU if you have the newer transmission or something? Thanks ahead of time!
- Thread starter
- #40
Yes and no, the 80 a343f uses a TV cable for line pressure, and the newer a343f used with the 2UZ controls pressure electronically via the ECU and has an additional sensor. It is possible to retrofit, just more work. You would also need to swap valve bodies from a donor tundra/Sequoia etc. It's just a lot easier to use the 100 trans the way it is, if you can find one. Check This thread for some more info on using the 80 trans.
