Oil leak found (2 Viewers)

[jerryb]

mine looks like this, it doesn't drip on the floor. This is the best thread for pictures or the area when I was searching a few months ago. rear main seal?
Personally I'm not doing anything about it at the moment except switch to m1 high mileage in a week or two.

 

[xenon]

Looks like the rear main oil seal. Have you tried to use the seal modifier? ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

I've been told it works for minor oil leaks from any oil seal.

To replace the seal you'll have to drop the transmission. If you have a transmission jack the job is bit easy.

My steering rack began dripping significantly; would drain the reservoir in 2 days.
Decided to try a stop leak product. Checked out Blue Devil, Lucas, and AT-205.
Went with the 205 because of the large number of favorable reviews on Amazon.
The amount to add is proportionate; I went with 2 ounces.
Continued leaking for 3 days. Added another 2 ounces.
On fourth day stopped leaking and hasn't lost a drop in the last month.
That said, I think I would be hesitant to use it for an engine oil leak.

 

[ibrahim83]

don't use any stop leak products in your car unless you're trying to unload it (dick move) it'll swell all the gaskets up and once the swelling is over, oil will leak from everywhere. Just don't do it.

I'd rather leak up to a quart every 8500 miles (my oil change intervals, it never goes lower than full with the leak) than to use a stop leak product. It's a temporary band aid fix at best.

 

[2001LC]

Thought I'd post some more info on seal conditioner vs seal modifiers I've learned from rooting around.

Most if not all modifiers in high mileage (HM) oils are a petroleum distillate product that swell rubber. In the case with M1 HM oil they (mobil techs) stated must continue use, if have used for minimum of two oil changes (as I noted above). I spoke with a few M1 tech which all read from same data base, giving same statement. This is not good, as it must then do harm as was stated above "junky" if continued use is required!

ATP is a seal manufacturing company that offers their proprietary rubber Plasticizer AT-205 re-seal. They use this same conditioner in their seals manufacture processes. Over time plasticizer leaches/drys out of rubber seal(s). IMHO this happens more often in certain condition: 1) Vehicle not used regularly, setting long spells where seal dry out. 2) Gunk build up on seal from conventional oil, drying seals. Then switching to synthetic cleans gunk off seals, that have dried and they leak. You every hear don't switch to synthetic oil in high mileage rigs! it cleans off/out gunk and they leak!

I've not used AT-205 in engine's, transmission and such, but will now without fear of damaging seals. If I find leaks after switch to synthetic or in rigs that have been sitting more than driven having leaks it makes sense to try this first. I'm not taking about head-cover gaskets or dip stick tub o-ring that are easy to change. Rather main seals, cam & crank seals, differential when bearing are still good etc... ATP is very specific on amount to use and not too reused for a long period of time (many years) as it may over condition rubber which is damaging according to them. It will not repair damaged seal, nor damage health ones according to ATP techs I've spoken to if used as directed. Not damaging only putting back what was there as they claim makes sense. Do no harm is first rule of thumb.

 

[reznunt]

So whats the consensus on using stop leak? The hate to use it and make it worse.

I'm a believer. Sprung 3 leaks on my last trail ride because of lots of muddy water and I don't have the time or funds to fix everything immediately. I tried to clean everything out as best I could but the leaks remained. I put AT-205 in my transfer case and it stopped the leak at the front output shaft seal. I put it in the power steering reservoir and it stopped the leak at the top seal at the shaft. I also put it in the front diff to stop the passenger side oil seal leak but it didn't really help. This was an attempt at a temporary fix until I can properly tackle one leak at a time. Last time I used it in a power steering rack was on my Tundra and it's been 15k miles leak free. So for now I'm going to do the front diff seals (and reboot the CV's), and then do the transfer case seal and a new steering rack later.

 

[bucfl]

thanks!

 

[HRTROB]

Has anybody used AT-205 to fix a leak in the engine? I just discovered a leak in my ‘02 from what appears to be the rear main seal. I have an almost full bottle of AT-205 that I used in my power steering (only used 1 ounce and worked great - stopped the leak on both rack ends) and was wondering if it’s safe to use on the engine.

 

[2001LC]

I would certainly give it a try. Making sure to use, amount specified.

 

[TXMeatball]

Remember seeing a post about a stop leak a month ago. Mine's a little wet too but not dripping.

What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

Swapped out tired old 865 coils for some 866, which added 3/4” to the rear height. Added new OEM rear rotors and adjusted the e-brake to “Black Bear Pass” tight.

forum.ih8mud.com

@OEMGUY0720 any update?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Remember seeing a post about a stop leak a month ago. Mine's a little wet too but not dripping.

What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

Swapped out tired old 865 coils for some 866, which added 3/4” to the rear height. Added new OEM rear rotors and adjusted the e-brake to “Black Bear Pass” tight.

forum.ih8mud.com

@OEMGUY0720 any update?

Still clean and no leaks at this point. Already performed an oil change using 0W-16 last week and no signs of leak.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Still clean and no leaks at this point. Already performed an oil change using 0W-16 last week and no signs of leak.

0W-16, I've not heard of this spec before?

Edit: A quick google search educated me.

 

[turbotoyz]

Oil leak just popped up and overnight. Popped the transmission cover and inside looks dry, from my quick inspection. I am not looking forward to replacing rear main seal. @2001LC would you use AT-205?

 

[2001LC]

I can see it's not coming down DS of engine from outside and above. I can't see the PS side. I make sure it's not and clean, than watch for recurrence to narrow down leak point.

If it than still appears to be rear main seal. Yes, I'd try 9.5 oz of AT-205. I'd also make sure PCV system working properly.

 

[spressomon]

Ditto ^: Check the PCV valve (and hose fitting). No need to replace the PCV valve. Just thoroughly clean it in brake cleaner or similar and put it back. If it rattles without damping effect of oil sludge, its OK.

If it indeed is the main seal, be sure to thoroughly check the flex plate. Mine was badly cracked, as most are since Toyota didn't do a SSP on the flex plates. Good time to swap in a new one if you're replacing the main seal.

 

[ticoman]

As been stated here your looking at a potential rear main leak. How big and issue depends on how bad it's leaking. No leak is acceptable to me.

I just thought I'd point out your slide yoke & spider joint (AKA u-joint) "look" dry, nor do I see grease slug from them. Indicating they're not being lube as recommended by factory.

My thoughts exactly. doesn't look like they have ever seen any

 

[Slimm]

I have this as well and have not yet determined whether or not the upper oil pan or the rear main is the culprit. Interested to see what you find if you start digging, as symptoms are apparently similar for both.

 

[turbotoyz]

I can see it's not coming down DS of engine from outside and above. I can't see the PS side. I make sure it's not and clean, than watch for recurrence to narrow down leak point.
View attachment 2384815
If it than still appears to be rear main seal. Yes, I'd try 9.5 oz of AT-205. I'd also make sure PCV system working properly.

PS has grease staining from the driveshaft but no wet oil. I could look up at the backside of both heads and they look dry. Inside the bell housing looked dry. I will clean up the area, test PCV and report back.

Thanks

 

[turbotoyz]

I have this as well and have not yet determined whether or not the upper oil pan or the rear main is the culprit. Interested to see what you find if you start digging, as symptoms are apparently similar for both.

Initial inspection inside bellhousing looks dry and maybe my upper oil pan gasket is leaking. I'll let you know what i find later this week.

 

[Texasforever87]

Initial inspection inside bellhousing looks dry and maybe my upper oil pan gasket is leaking. I'll let you know what i find later this week.

Did you ever figure this leak out? I have it too and can't find it. I changed the valve cover gaskets and the spark plug tube seals and it doesn't seem to be helping.

 

[turbotoyz]

Did you ever figure this leak out? I have it too and can't find it. I changed the valve cover gaskets and the spark plug tube seals and it doesn't seem to be helping.

I can't find a leak above so it's either rear main or upper oil pan near the rear. I added ATP AT205 and the leak is still there. I'm looking to schedule a weekend and drop the transmission and swap the rear main seal.