Need help figuring out this leak. Back side of the engine.... how big of an issue is this?
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Add me to the list. I haven't been able to figure out how to post pictures from my phone here, but i'm in the same boat. All indicators point to the rear main seal, which is a PITA on all cars. Surprisingly, there's no info that i could find of our engines having this issue.
Mine will leave a drop if parked for more than three days. No loss in oil in at all between my 8500 mile oil change intervals. but my shield is wet, and has been since i bought it last june with 139k. i'm at 153k and it hasn't gotten better or worse.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic btw. Not high mileage or any special formulation.
Mine will leave a drop if parked for more than three days. No loss in oil in at all between my 8500 mile oil change intervals. but my shield is wet, and has been since i bought it last june with 139k. i'm at 153k and it hasn't gotten better or worse.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic btw. Not high mileage or any special formulation.
Looks like the rear main oil seal. Have you tried to use the seal modifier? ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal
I've been told it works for minor oil leaks from any oil seal.
To replace the seal you'll have to drop the transmission. If you have a transmission jack the job is bit easy.
I've been told it works for minor oil leaks from any oil seal.
To replace the seal you'll have to drop the transmission. If you have a transmission jack the job is bit easy.
I'm in the same situation. I've been using regular Mobil 1, but next oil change I'm going to switch to the High Mileage variant, hoping it will help with the seal. Good news is that it's not making old puddles on the ground, so it's more weeping than leaking. I'm at ~110k miles.
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I will try that resealer out and see if it works
Don't try any re-sealer. They are the worst thing you can do unless it's a $1500 clunker car you need to sell. They Swell the rubber seals to stop the leaks like rice absorbing water. This affect works short term but it also swells other seals. Then they lose their puffiness after a little time and the leak will come back twice as bad and you'll likely develop more weeps in other areas
Recently purchased an 04 and it has 263k miles on it now, I've noticed the same problem. Wiped it clean and a week or so later looks almost identical to your pictures. I was fearing the rear main seal. I guess I'll just deal with a drop of oil here and there.
Same here. This and a leaky CAM Seal. Have not wanted to use a stop leak either. Odd thing is that my oil level has not moved. Or if it has i can barely tell...
Is there a major concern aside from the oil leak? I dont see drops on the drive way yet.
Is there a major concern aside from the oil leak? I dont see drops on the drive way yet.
Mine is the same. Leaks enough to keep it wet but not enough to drip. If it starts to drip, I'll change it but I'm not dropping the transmission if I donlt have to.
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Maybe a drop or 2 on the driveway, but wanted to see if others had this issue, if they fixed it or have just went about their merry way. Don't want to put off fixing something that needs to be done if it is going to cause a major headache later.
That's absolutely a rear main leak. If you want to solidify your diagnosis, take that plate off and look up into the bell housing with a flash light.
Oil leaks only get worse. But that doesn't look bad at all. No one likes to fix rear main leaks because it's the cost of R&Ring a transmission.
I would keep an eye on it. Once it starts using oil or bathing the underside of your truck, then it's time to worry.
This is coming from a Technician
Oil leaks only get worse. But that doesn't look bad at all. No one likes to fix rear main leaks because it's the cost of R&Ring a transmission.
I would keep an eye on it. Once it starts using oil or bathing the underside of your truck, then it's time to worry.
This is coming from a Technician
HM oils like Mobil 1 High Mileage have seal modifiers added in. So are you also saying don't use these? Can you point/link to any research/evidence of this?
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#1: If you haven't checked/cleaned/replaced your PCV valve now is a good time to it. Increased bottom end pressure will only exacerbate the main seal leaking issue.
#2: Had the same leak at ~245k. Robbie, while I was in the Denver area a couple years ago, put a new main seal in along with a new flex plate (ticking time bomb on the 2UZ-FE).
You might get away with running thicker viscosity oil to slow the leak. For awhile.
#2: Had the same leak at ~245k. Robbie, while I was in the Denver area a couple years ago, put a new main seal in along with a new flex plate (ticking time bomb on the 2UZ-FE).
You might get away with running thicker viscosity oil to slow the leak. For awhile.
I was talking about concentrated products such as "Lucas Oil - Stop Leak". I cannot speak for high mileage oil.
What sort of evidence are you hoping for mate? I can only give you my personal experiences as a former used car manager and common sense. When using products like that it targets all the seals, not just the weeping one. The seals swell, even though they may have been completely fine, all in the aim of stopping one particular weep because it was either A; financially unviable or B; The owner is a cheapskate.
After a period of weeks and sometimes months the weep comes back again, equal or worse than before and often times other seals now begin to give way because they have been exposed to the product. Temporarily swollen and now once again deflated.
You begin to have to use the stop leak more frequently, like a person addicted to botox or steroids. Let's face it, if you're using a $15.99 bottle of Lucas stop leak to fix a rear main seal on a cruiser instead of ponying up to get it done, you should probably be looking to drive a camry.
These are precision instruments and require the maintenence their durability is beholden too. If not, it's a slippery slope downhill.
But that's just my two cents. Take it or leave it as you will. I'd be interested to see if anyone else has some good reading on the stop leak products.
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I've been rooting around looking for some solid evidence of what these seal conditioner/modifiers do long term, I'm not finding much hard research. I've spoken with ATP tech support, they state run with AT-205 for minimum of 5 hours. After which you never need again and can leave in or flush out. Mobil tech states; you need to keep using the M1 High Mileage oil if you done two or more changes (~8K to 16K miles) with it.
I'm in the camp of replace seals that leak. That said; in cases where say steering rack, differential or like my hydraulic floor jack a seal conditioner can buy some time until seals can be sourced and repair/replacement done. In case where there are many seals in a system like an engine I've refrained from use altogether out of concern.
I agree keep PCV valve in good working order or you'll blow oil from weakest spot.
I've not heard of much flex plate issues "ticking time bomb". I've only read of a few incidences (vibration) with Flex plate being an issue. Is this something Robbie said?
As been stated here your looking at a potential rear main leak. How big and issue depends on how bad it's leaking. No leak is acceptable to me.
I just thought I'd point out your slide yoke & spider joint (AKA u-joint) "look" dry, nor do I see grease slug from them. Indicating they're not being lube as recommended by factory.
i removed my plate and yes, two tiny drops starting to form. I'll look into the PCV valve and switch to high mileage mobil 1