1996 Land Crusier, check engine light is on. I take it to Advance Auto for diagnostics. The guy looks at the reader and says O2 Sensor, Bank 1. So, where is that located and can I do that myself? Also, how much should I be paying for the part. He gave me a price of $123 for the part. Thanks for reading!
O2 sensor, bank 1??????
- Thread starter kino1161
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Sensor 1, bank 1? That is the sensor in front of the cat. Should be fairly easy unless you are dealing with rust.
That is about the price you will pay for a Genuine Toyota O2 sensor from CruiserDan. I would not use an aftermarket O2 sensor. Probably should do both at the same time.
The nuts will be rusted and difficult to remove. You might need a dremel w/cut-off wheel or a Craftsman bolt-out or some way to remove the corroded nuts.
-B-
X2 on the CDan OEM parts. The aftermarket ones don't work and you will probably end up buying OEM down the road when the aftermarket ones fail.
The bolt outs work very well with a lot of heat from a propane torch and possibly some PB blaster. It just takes some time. You can also source bolt outs from harbor freight on the cheap.
I would pony up and do both at the same time. OEM all the way!
If they are rusted like mine, to the point I couldnt tell they were nuts, use soak them in pb blaster a couple of times a days for a couple of days. I think I used vise grips to get mine off, replaced the nuts stainless steel nuts from ace hardware.
I am always wondering why some people advise to do both o2 sensors at once. I admittedly don't know for sure, so please correct me. I thought the first one told the computer how much oxygen is left in the exhaust stream, and the computer uses the data to increase or decrease fuel trim. I thought the second one simply told the computer that there is still less o2 in the exhaust stream compared to the first. This means that the catalitic converters are doing their job and futher oxidizing the unburnt fuel componets. For this reason, the first one is more "important" because it effects the entire fuel trim. While the second one is used for comparison purposes only and only tells the computer that the catalitic converters are working. Therefore, as long as the second one is not causing a code to be thrown, it is still working good enough, and can go alot longer without being replaced and causing any problems.
O2 sensors are "wear" type of devices. Unlike some parts, they have a finite life; ~100k miles is what I have read. Two that are the same age will have seen virtually the same variables over the years; mileage, type of fuel, fuel additives, heat cycles, and all the things that cause them to wear out. Therefore, if one is bad from normal wear, then it seems logical that the other is not far behind. If one were somehow damaged, then I would recommend replacing just that O2 sensor.
I don't have any empirical evidence to back up this theory but that is the reason that I recommended to this guy that he should replace them both at the same time.
-B-
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
I replaced both of mine when I bought the 80 with 113K because I was doing quite a bit of PM and they had never been replaced. As already mentioned, 100K is the suggested lifetime IIRC.
Mine failed one month apart, so I am sold on your theory.
Just wanted to point out to to you, kino, that if you end up using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to just cut the nut, not the stud; you'll need to preserve the stud to install the new O2 sensor.
x2 on the use of the Craftsman Bolt outs. I used them on my O2 sensor nuts and they worked great (see post #22 here)
I also agree with Beowulf's theory; mine went two months apart.
Bank 1 is the exhaust manifold on the front of the L6.
Bank 2 is the exhaust manifold on the rear of the L6.
Sensor 1 is before the cats and sensor 2 is after the cats.
Bank 2 is the exhaust manifold on the rear of the L6.
Sensor 1 is before the cats and sensor 2 is after the cats.
start at the cats and follow the pipe forward. When you find this thing sticking out of the pipe with wires on it, that's the front O2 sensor.
Now start at the cats and follow the pipe rearward. When you find this thing sticking out of the pipe with wires on it, that's the back O2 sensor.
Now start at the cats and follow the pipe rearward. When you find this thing sticking out of the pipe with wires on it, that's the back O2 sensor.
