no power to anything - battery charged (solved) (1 Viewer)

[Kschep]

ok heres some VOLTAGE info to recall from previous and that I just did again now to verify:

*when i jump power from the 30 terminal to the Ign Coil out terminal on starter I get voltage:

KEY-OFF position

-Ign Coil - YES + YES -
-Ign plug end for switch: -Black/Yellow - YES
-White/Blue - YES
-Blue/Red - NO
-Black/White - NO

-Fuses: 1,2,3 - YES
4 - NO
5,6,7,8 - YES
-Ammeter - YES + YES -


KEY-ON position

-Ign Coil - YES + YES -
-@ Ign Switch (past plug) - B/Y - YES
- W/B - YES
- B/R - YES
- B/W - NO
-Fuses: ALL YES !
-Ammeter - YES both

when you look at this info above ... its the Black/White That doesnt change and still has No volt whatsoever when everything else does...which is why i said previously everything lights up when i jump terminal 30 to ign coil out on starter

i checked continuity from starter all the way to key switch for B/W and I get tone so in pic I highlighted my B/W with orange and then I also highlighted a missing wire btw distributor and igniter in pink. I mentioned this earlier about that missing red wire

to answer your previous question 73FJ40 - yes they have voltage with key off

 

[pb4ugo]

ok heres some VOLTAGE info to recall from previous and that I just did again now to verify:

*when i jump power from the 30 terminal to the Ign Coil out terminal on starter I get voltage:

KEY-OFF position

-Ign Coil - YES + YES -
-Ign plug end for switch: -Black/Yellow - YES
-White/Blue - YES
-Blue/Red - NO
-Black/White - NO

-Fuses: 1,2,3 - YES
4 - NO
5,6,7,8 - YES
-Ammeter - YES + YES -


KEY-ON position

-Ign Coil - YES + YES -
-@ Ign Switch (past plug) - B/Y - YES
- W/B - YES
- B/R - YES
- B/W - NO
-Fuses: ALL YES !
-Ammeter - YES both

For get about the starter solenoid!!! As @73FJ40 said, by adding a 12volt jump wire to terminal #30 you are backfeeding power thru the harness. When the harness is acting correctly, the Blk/white wire will only have power when the key turned to the start position, it activates the starter. Ill look at my 40 tonight to see if I can ID where the grd is under the dash. What is the history of your wiring harness? A lot of it looks newer.

 

[bhsdriller]

For get about the starter solenoid!!! As @73FJ40 said, by adding a 12volt jump wire to terminal #30 you are backfeeding power thru the harness. When the harness is acting correctly, the Blk/white wire will only have power when the key turned to the start position, it activates the starter. Ill look at my 40 tonight to see if I can ID where the grd is under the dash. What is the history of your wiring harness? A lot of it looks newer.

Lots of it is probably new.

Electrical nightmare?

So it’s time to tackle this rats nest that the PO left me. How do I go about this? where should I start? Anyone got any good ideas for a checklist as I start this? And then how do I replace this alternator plug - the wires at connection are fraying a bit and it’s shorting. My fuse blows so I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Kschep]

i re-did all s***ty splices and took out added incorrect color wires to do correct colors - and i did it right, meaning meticulously as ****..and everything was fine electrically until this ****ing annoying ass happening...i just covered everything too - and now im sure im about to uncover everything and make sure its all good but testing continuity and everything - wires are good i get tone

when i did the harness - i fricken used dual wall shrink on everything and butt spliced everything to perfection because I NEVER wanted to do it again lol...and here we are...again when i connect everything as soon as i try to turn car on it all stops....so i must have a short or a bad connection or something touching? i covered everything though - no bare wires...
but here i go im going to uncover and start looking

 

[pb4ugo]

OK, we need you to check your fuses again, without any jump wires anywhere connected. We need solid info. I question your last results. Connect any disconnected stk wiresc as they should be. Have the bat hook up as it should be with the key on. Check them from top to bottom. Check both sides of the fuse. I don't care about wire colors, just location in the box. I don't know what year your 40 is, but the fuses in the box should be similar to below.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Connected properly - not backward - covered to be safe .. pretty sure I’m good there

View attachment 2910909

View attachment 2910910

View attachment 2910911

When checking the AMP meter, you measured full volts on the W+ wire and zero on the WL wire, correct?

Did you disconnect the W+ and WL wire from the cluster and measure continuity of the AMP meter?

Is the instrument cluster a stock 1976 with the 30 AMP meter?


As shown in the image below, a blown AMP meter will cause everything to go dark. Given your first post explaining the fuse blowing prior to installing the proper ‘fuseable link’, maybe the AMP meter is blown.

 

[Ackcruisers]

W+ Is the left post on the AMP meter and WL is on the - side. Set multimeter to OHms and measure resistance.

 

[John McVicker]

@Ackcruisers might be on to something.

 

[Kschep]

When checking the AMP meter, you measured full volts on the W+ wire and zero on the WL wire, correct?

Did you disconnect the W+ and WL wire from the cluster and measure continuity of the AMP meter?

Is the instrument cluster a stock 1976 with the 30 AMP meter?


As shown in the image below, a blown AMP meter will cause everything to go dark. Given your first post explaining the fuse blowing prior to installing the proper ‘fuseable link’, maybe the AMP meter is blown.

View attachment 2911682

wow - let me check great thought

 

[whitey45]

You can also bypass the amp meter for test purposes ..

 

[Ackcruisers]

You can also bypass the amp meter for test purposes ..

Yes. By connecting the W+ ring terminal to the WL ring terminal (you can use small bolt and nut with some electrical tape). This will bypass the AMP meter as shown.

 

[Kschep]

ok getting back at it. so my grounds...battery to frame - check
starter to frame - check
Where do I check the point where the body is grounded? or is there even a specific place? im sure ill just have to find that one myself considering this PO moved plenty of things that i have had to put back in correct placement

i will be coming back with numbers for the volts on the fuse block in a bit
and I will check the ammeter also again to see if blown etc as Ackcruisers suggested.

 

[John McVicker]

If this was mine I’d check the amp meter first, before thinking about doing anything else. Good luck.

 

[MOTOV8R]

When I started reading this electrical murder mystery on page one and saw all the remaining pages I was certain I would get to read about the thrilling conclusion of this who dunnit. Sorry to hear you haven’t gotten to the bottom of this wiring gremlin, hope you figure it out soon, ammeter sounds highly plausible. Good luck!

 

[pjohnson]

I have kept up with this mystery also, hoping for an easy end. I've kept my .02 out as there have been a few cooks in the kitchen already.

I had a 72 briefly that had an intermittent no power condition. After many hours of tracing and testing and pulling the loom apart behind the cluster, it turned out that an OEM crimp in the connecter on the back of the ignition switch was to blame. Hope yours is that simple.

 

[Kschep]

pulling ammeter now...be back with conclusion of that idea (praying it is...)

is it wierd that i get full volt reading (12.35) on my White (maing power ling from battery)
and then I also get Volt readings on my White/Blue on the neg post on ammeter? - for some reason i remember someone saying i should 0 on that side? maybe im remembering incorrectly. the reading like 4-6 volts

 

[firefighterjed]

When Disconnected from the ammeter the white/blue should be 0v. And everything else should be dead too. (Except the big post on the starter solenoid.)

 

[Kschep]

When Disconnected from the ammeter the white/blue should be 0v. And everything else should be dead too. (Except the big post on the starter solenoid.)

yea i meant all connected and everything hooked up the way it "should" be

 

[Kschep]

ammeter looks ok i think
continuity tone
here is my Ohmz:

 

[Kschep]

OK, we need you to check your fuses again, without any jump wires anywhere connected. We need solid info. I question your last results. Connect any disconnected stk wiresc as they should be. Have the bat hook up as it should be with the key on. Check them from top to bottom. Check both sides of the fuse. I don't care about wire colors, just location in the box. I don't know what year your 40 is, but the fuses in the box should be similar to below.

ok its a 76 so yes similar
everything hooked up as normal no jumps no nothing except correct connections
Fuse Box Readings:
KEY ON: L R
1. 11.78. 11.78
2. 11.78. 11.78
3. 11.78. 0.00
4. 11.78. 11.78
5. 11.61. 11.61
6. 11.63. 11.62
7. 11.6. 11.57
8. 11.77. 11.77

KEY OFF All 12's except 0.00's for those that need key on obviously

Continuity-wise:

black/yellow from coil to ign switch - yes
ammeter - yes
White (ammeter to B+) - yes
White/Blue - ammeter to Alt - yes
- ign switch to Alt - yes
- ammeter to ign switch - yes (so that line with the splices in the loom is good to go, so i dont need to tear that splice apart to
check)

Black/White - ign switch to starter - yes



still working through other continuity numbers (specifically at the fuse block out) but i wanted to post what i had so far