Where are you in the bay area? Maybe I should come over and help! I am on the coast south of half moon bay!
no power to anything - battery charged (solved)
- Thread starter Kschep
- Start date
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So, Ive been following along, but have been reluctant to chime in, because of the possibilty of "too many cooks". I'm glad you seem to have satisfied most of the questions that were ask. I feel confident I could have predicted the results. IMO, there are a couple of post you have posted that should point you in the direction of the problem and I'm surprised nobody picked up on them. Your post #27 and #79. You state you are getting power to the fuse box except for the circuits that require the key to be in the ON position. Power to the other fuses in the box confirms the fusible link is ok. The fuses that are not working are the ones that require the key to be "ON", like ING(blk/yellow) , wipers(blue/red), start wire(blk/white), etc. 1st I would check the plug going to the ING switch. Then, is there power going to the ing switch, according to your wire diagram the White/blue wire would be supplying power to it. If the wire is hot to the switch then it is most likely the switch itself. The ING switch supplies power to the fuses that currently do not have power with the key on.
You have a couple of misconceptions about the starter solenoid. It doesn't really distribute power thru out the harness. It has the large battery lead, the ing switch activates the solenoid thru the blk/white wire and connects the large wire to the starter internally and the starter cranks.
The 4th wire sends 12volts to the coil while the starter is cranking, to help boost the voltage at the coil.
You have a couple of misconceptions about the starter solenoid. It doesn't really distribute power thru out the harness. It has the large battery lead, the ing switch activates the solenoid thru the blk/white wire and connects the large wire to the starter internally and the starter cranks.
The 4th wire sends 12volts to the coil while the starter is cranking, to help boost the voltage at the coil.
- Thread starter
- #123
what ? they macth up exactly...maybe your not seeing the pictures correctly... soid white to positive and white/blue to negative - thats what i said - thats what the picture shows. move past
- Thread starter
- #124
im right over 92 in san mateo - it would be easy for you to get to me
- Thread starter
- #125
i know my mind is on the starter solenoid and i need to get off that - but can someone tell me or not that if the starter went out -would this be a result of that? meaning is it possible? i just wanna know if the starter solenoid went bad or something would this be gettting caused
and yes i know the starter set up doesnt control the power to the loom - but all roads stop there and when i jump the power to the ign coil output post - everything lights up...so my mind cant take me away from that..
maybe someone could explain how the starter receiving power and not outputing power could be caused by something else other than it being bad...
and yes i know the starter set up doesnt control the power to the loom - but all roads stop there and when i jump the power to the ign coil output post - everything lights up...so my mind cant take me away from that..
maybe someone could explain how the starter receiving power and not outputing power could be caused by something else other than it being bad...
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- Thread starter
- #126
when i previously jumped the starter positive to the starter to ign coil stud - all the sudden i got volt readings at ign plug and at coil
Sorry, yes you are correct. I was looking at your pic @ it appeared to me that you had that red cover on the white/blue wire. Took another look. Carry on.
the ignition switch in the start position activates (sends 12 volt to the soleniod) the starter solenoid, the solenoid with the supplied 12volts pulls the plunger inside it and connects the big cable to the starter motor.
@Kschep
PLEASE use the solenoid terminal designations (30, 50, C, ign coil) to describe what you speak of.
Obliviously, The coil got the 12 volts from your jumper wire which came from the big lead on the starter which is connected to the battery. When operating correctly Power should be come from the ing switch with the key in the start position, thru the blk/white wire to activate the starter solenoid. All power for the ignition system has to go thru the ing switch. When you turn the key to ON, it powers the other curcuits in the fuse box, and in turn powers the coil, then turn the key to start, which supplies power to the starter soleniod and the engine cranks. Your tests confirm the soleniod is working.
???
I didn't see where Kyle turned the key to "on".
lF he jumped power to the solenoid 50 terminal, the solenoid is energized, and as long as the solenoid remains energized, the "to ign coil" will feed 12V positive directly to the + coil terminal. The feed is interupted when the solenoid is de-energized.
But I'm not certain what Kyle wrote in post 126.
I don't understand this infatuation with the starter solenoid, when he doesn't have keyed power to fuse box. Which means no keyed power to the coil and most likely no start power from the start wire leading to the starter solenoid.
- Thread starter
- #133
when i jumped from the 30 terminal to the (to ign coil) terminal is what i meant sorry for not using correct language
- Thread starter
- #134
so I put key in ignition and turned to "on" - when i do that the fuse box readings all go to 0 ... when i take the key out i get readings so that should tell us something too
@pb4ugo
Look, Kyle in post 125 is still hung up on what the solenoid and starter have to do with feeding power into the system.
Also in the post, he states, "when i jump the power to the ign coil output post - everything lights up...so my mind cant take me away from that.." We learned in his post 133 that he jumped from the battery cable connection on the solenoid to the "to ignition coil" on the solenoid, effectively bypassing the solenoid. BUT, by backfeeding power to the coil, it appears it must have backfed power to the "ON" circuit, if that's what "everything lights up". means.
@Kschep , just to be certain, what does "everything lights up" mean?
Look, Kyle in post 125 is still hung up on what the solenoid and starter have to do with feeding power into the system.
Also in the post, he states, "when i jump the power to the ign coil output post - everything lights up...so my mind cant take me away from that.." We learned in his post 133 that he jumped from the battery cable connection on the solenoid to the "to ignition coil" on the solenoid, effectively bypassing the solenoid. BUT, by backfeeding power to the coil, it appears it must have backfed power to the "ON" circuit, if that's what "everything lights up". means.
@Kschep , just to be certain, what does "everything lights up" mean?
- Thread starter
- #136
sorry, good question, meaning all the sudden i get a volt reading at ign coil where there was none before, i get volt reading to the ign line at the switch where there was none before, i get volt readings on all fuses when there were none without....let me do it again and see what happens and then i can describe it better with exact numbers and correct language for you guys
refer back to post 40
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Your "fuse block" response in the 1st quote I have referenced and your latest response are not consistent. If both are true, I would look for a bad ground. Inconsistent readings are typically grounding issues. If I recall there is a ground wire under the dash near the fuse block.
- Thread starter
- #138
ok heres some VOLTAGE info to recall from previous and that I just did again now to verify:
*when i jump power from the 30 terminal to the Ign Coil out terminal on starter I get voltage:
KEY-OFF position
-Ign Coil - YES + YES -
-Ign plug end for switch: -Black/Yellow - YES
-White/Blue - YES
-Blue/Red - NO
-Black/White - NO
-Fuses: 1,2,3 - YES
4 - NO
5,6,7,8 - YES
-Ammeter - YES + YES -
KEY-ON position
-Ign Coil - YES + YES -
-@ Ign Switch (past plug) - B/Y - YES
- W/B - YES
- B/R - YES
- B/W - NO
-Fuses: ALL YES !
-Ammeter - YES both
*when i jump power from the 30 terminal to the Ign Coil out terminal on starter I get voltage:
KEY-OFF position
-Ign Coil - YES + YES -
-Ign plug end for switch: -Black/Yellow - YES
-White/Blue - YES
-Blue/Red - NO
-Black/White - NO
-Fuses: 1,2,3 - YES
4 - NO
5,6,7,8 - YES
-Ammeter - YES + YES -
KEY-ON position
-Ign Coil - YES + YES -
-@ Ign Switch (past plug) - B/Y - YES
- W/B - YES
- B/R - YES
- B/W - NO
-Fuses: ALL YES !
-Ammeter - YES both
- Thread starter
- #139
im looking for that ground...but volt at the fuse block would lead to think its fine even though i dont se it? - but can you be ore specific im looking right now. Also everyone please remember i bought this car with the previous owner doing all sorts of adding himself and he didnt do it professinal-like .. more like your crazy uncle does it..SO ASSUME NOTHING, lol ... yes looking for that ground...
Kyle,
Okay, first thing is don't backfeed the circuits anymore through the solenoid "to ign coil" terminal. That isn't the way your system is designed to get power, and it is NOT protected by any fuses or fusible links.
You have proven that power is not getting from the battery through the fusible link to the ignition switch, or FROM the ignition switch. However, when power is backfed to the ignition switch in the ON position, it backfeeds power through your fuse box to circuits not even connected to the ignition "ON" circuitry
You now have to figure out (from your wiring diagram) where the problem is.
Note that normally the headlights/running lights/horn and cigarette lighter should all have power with the key off. If they don't, I would trace that problem first.
Since your initial issue was a blown 25 amp fuse, I'd suggest looking for a bad wire. I'd start at where the wire loom goes through the firewall, 2nd picture in post 45, for a rub through insulation. Also, since a butcher was the P.O., any of his splices into the wires feeding the fuse block.
Okay, first thing is don't backfeed the circuits anymore through the solenoid "to ign coil" terminal. That isn't the way your system is designed to get power, and it is NOT protected by any fuses or fusible links.
You have proven that power is not getting from the battery through the fusible link to the ignition switch, or FROM the ignition switch. However, when power is backfed to the ignition switch in the ON position, it backfeeds power through your fuse box to circuits not even connected to the ignition "ON" circuitry
You now have to figure out (from your wiring diagram) where the problem is.
Note that normally the headlights/running lights/horn and cigarette lighter should all have power with the key off. If they don't, I would trace that problem first.
Since your initial issue was a blown 25 amp fuse, I'd suggest looking for a bad wire. I'd start at where the wire loom goes through the firewall, 2nd picture in post 45, for a rub through insulation. Also, since a butcher was the P.O., any of his splices into the wires feeding the fuse block.