no power to anything - battery charged (solved)

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So heres the story, I went in to get smog tested and drove it there with an in-line fuse where my fusible link should have been, long story short the fuse in the in-line kept blowing thus prompting me to ask you guys wtf, and then I was enlightened on the fact that I wasnt supposed to have an "in-line fuse" , I needed a "fusible link" at that spot.

So...

Got the fusible link from coolerman, installed, decided to make new battery cable in the meantime, and on accident didnt buy auto grade cable (but that shouldnt really matter - should still transmit the power)...also got these cable heads with multiple leads for my accessories...

Now I just hook everything back up and literally nothing, not even lights turn on...so there is literally no power being transferred.

thoughts?

I have a volt meter - heres my reading when i just stick the leads on the battery terminals - so theres plenty of power in the battery

What is my next step? or what do I try now? this shouldnt be too hard to figure out but im stumped on my next step here...

IMG_2660.jpg
 
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Voltage from positive to the frame?

At your fuse block, voltage from anything to the frame-body-metal?


so if i hooked it up correctly i did get a reading ... although lower its something... certain times it still showed 0.00 though unlesss i played with the negative lead but ultimately yes i got a reading here. still turn of key no response whatsoever...

IMG_2663.jpeg


IMG_2666.jpeg
 
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so im getting voltage to the fuse block bt the lights wont ven turn on ... huh ... everything is plugged in correctly - i just put it back together. i guess i did have to shove everything in...but then why absolutely nothing has power?
 
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because i get a voltage reading at the fuse block its safe to say that the ground at the battery cable is actually okay then? even though i will clean it up a bit..
 

rkymtnflyfisher

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so if i hooked it up correctly i did get a reading ... although lower its something... certain times it still showed 0.00 though unlesss i played with the negative lead but ultimately yes i got a reading here. still turn of key no response whatsoever...

View attachment 2908259

View attachment 2908260
9 volts is telling me you have a bad connection somewhere, you could take a jumper wire and use it to get a voltage reading from the positive post on the battery and the fuse block. You should have minimal voltage between the 2. Also use the same jumper to go from the negative post to to fuse block.


Using your meter of course.



We still need to establish positive post to the frame voltage measurement.
 
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you could take a jumper wire and use it to get a voltage reading from the positive post on the battery and the fuse block. You should have minimal voltage between the 2. Also use the same jumper to go from the negative post to to fuse block.

Using your meter of course.

so im trying to understand how to do that - take my red prong on the meter to positive battery post andthen take black prong to any part of fuse block and see reading? then same for negative battery post..

or do you mean a seperate wire when you say jumper wire
 

rkymtnflyfisher

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so im trying to understand how to do that - take my red prong on the meter to positive battery post andthen take black prong to any part of fuse block and see reading? then same for negative battery post..

or do you mean a seperate wire when you say jumper wire
If your meter leads will reach from the fuse block to the battery, yes.

What we're trying to find is where the circuit is broken.

So take a voltage reading from the positive on the battery to the fuse block.
Then take a voltage reading from the negative on the battery to the fuse block.


I'd still like to see a solid voltage reading from something like the engine, frame, or bolt somewhere, to the positive post. Start there, then work towards the fuse block.
 
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well for what its worth i took a reading on the positive post behind the dash cluster on the ampmeter and got 10.something
where the solid white wire runs to off the battery+
 
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so i cleaned up the cable negative to frame area quickly with my dremmel - and put a new stainless steel washer on the bolt side so that has a nice side too...so that should be good to go

before and after shots showing cleaned frame area connection

IMG_2667D.jpeg


IMG_2668D.jpeg
 
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tried to get a reading off my black/yellow ignition line wire and couldnt get one for the most part but when i ran/slid the ground prong along the metal it would jump some numbers but basically nothing there if im doing it correctly which i am but i question myself because this is my first real run with this meter
 

Green Bean

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When doing electrical testing, I've found these jumpers to be incredibly handy in combination with a multimeter and a simple 12v test light.
Amazon product
Good luck.
 

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