rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
So #3 is a blown fuse?
no power to anything - battery charged (solved)
- Thread starter Kschep
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
....
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I'm glad to see all the circuits are getting power. Try to find the plug in the pic below. These wires go to the ING switch. White blue is hot all the time. With the key in the on position blk/yellow and blue/red are hot. You can test them but because the keyed fuses are hot confirms it. With the key in the start position, the blk/white wire should be hot. Be sure the 40 is in neutral. The pic is from a 75 40. Fyi
- Thread starter
- #164
its not blown its intact - the metal line in middle is not blown no
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
It's a bad connection or blown. Fuses can blow/melt at the ends and still have the metal intact.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
You have voltage on one side of the fuse but not the other?
Bad fuse.
Bad connection.
One of the two.
whitey45
SILVER Star
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Last edited:
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Always remove fuses to check continuity, exceptions can be made, but the best practice is to remove it and place it on a non conductive surface and check resistance. Without touching it with your fingers.
More of an industrial thing as voltage can be backfed from control transformers and such in 3 phase systems. Which will fool the amateur electrician in a heartbeat.
More of an industrial thing as voltage can be backfed from control transformers and such in 3 phase systems. Which will fool the amateur electrician in a heartbeat.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I think it's l r when looking at the box. It makes sense. Im pretty sure the power side is on the left.
- Thread starter
- #171
Yes that’s Left and Right - sides of fuse block.. meaning left side of fuse clip and then right side of fuse clip (with fuses in the clips obviously)
Ok so I’m googling what “open circuit” means now lol
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Open circuit means just that. The circuit needs to be closed in order for current to flow. It's just like turning off your light switch, it opens the circuit.
Last edited:
“You have much to learn Grasshopper”
Don’t worry, we were all there at one point. I had fuse that kept melting the solder out at the end. It looked intact, but would no longer pass current through it. There was too much resistance at one of the connections at the fuse panel which created heat thus melting the solder and creating an open circuit.
Some terms:
Open Circuit: Off (break in circuit)
Close Circuit: On (current will flow through)
Current: Amps = Coulombs/second
Coulomb: _______ electrons (don’t remember the number… and it’s not super important)
Voltage: Electrical “Pressure” moving the electrons.
V=I R: volts = Amps x Resistance.
There’s a direct relationship between the amount of energy that goes through the circuit and the resistance. As the resistance increases (bad connections etc) the amount of energy (amps) that gets to what you’re powering goes down. I’m not going to get into it in more depth as I’m not an instant teaching a course, but merely trying to help you know enough.
Every poor connection adds resistance. To make things work correctly, you’ll need to clean all the connections you can to ensure all (at least most of) the power gets through to what you are trying to power.
Clear as mud?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #174
best explanation ive read - clear and concise. and of course thats what open circuit means - duh ... im just learning the semantics i guess.
- Thread starter
- #175
SO, the thrilling conclusion...
I have figured it out and everyone, it did have to do with the starter, but not necessarily what you think. After calming myself down by talking to one of my best mud bud's ToyotaMatt - he recentered my thought and I went back to where I started which was voltage flow starting at battery - then fusible link- then starter ....AND remember how voltage was going in but NOT coming out...? that was the biggest clue but we all went past that because we "thought" we had tested and the problem must be somewhere else....No it wasnt, it was merely that the previous owner had a sensor style wire tip female spade style connection (which spring style female connection had worn a bit and wasnt placing enough downward pressure on the male end to make connection) on my black/white which was not sending voltage to the ign coil. ... for some reason we went past that instead of checking that connection better (all bec the plastic housing covered the blunder).
ANYWAYS long story short i switched the tip to the correct female spade terminal and now the connection is tight and good. It was hard to notice because of the plastic housing covering the previous owners male wire end (and the incorrect style housing for the connection type as well)....moral to the story when doing electrical work use the correct things dont just use what you have because it ends up causing a problem thats hard to find. if your gunna do it, do it right with the correct materials...correct tip right , incorrect on left which was used. Already tossed the one off the truck so that one pictured looks fine but that slide style female metal just got worn & wasn’t making right connection).
Thank you to ALL who helped me through this and im sure ill be needing some help somewhere down the line ... and of course learning so much throughout this process of my "electrical nightmare" to this problem solving issue, I have learned plenty adn will be able to help someone else.
again thank you especiall to all but Whitey, Pb, RK, and finally ToyotaMatt especially. you guys make mud awesome
I have figured it out and everyone, it did have to do with the starter, but not necessarily what you think. After calming myself down by talking to one of my best mud bud's ToyotaMatt - he recentered my thought and I went back to where I started which was voltage flow starting at battery - then fusible link- then starter ....AND remember how voltage was going in but NOT coming out...? that was the biggest clue but we all went past that because we "thought" we had tested and the problem must be somewhere else....No it wasnt, it was merely that the previous owner had a sensor style wire tip female spade style connection (which spring style female connection had worn a bit and wasnt placing enough downward pressure on the male end to make connection) on my black/white which was not sending voltage to the ign coil. ... for some reason we went past that instead of checking that connection better (all bec the plastic housing covered the blunder).
ANYWAYS long story short i switched the tip to the correct female spade terminal and now the connection is tight and good. It was hard to notice because of the plastic housing covering the previous owners male wire end (and the incorrect style housing for the connection type as well)....moral to the story when doing electrical work use the correct things dont just use what you have because it ends up causing a problem thats hard to find. if your gunna do it, do it right with the correct materials...correct tip right , incorrect on left which was used. Already tossed the one off the truck so that one pictured looks fine but that slide style female metal just got worn & wasn’t making right connection).
Thank you to ALL who helped me through this and im sure ill be needing some help somewhere down the line ... and of course learning so much throughout this process of my "electrical nightmare" to this problem solving issue, I have learned plenty adn will be able to help someone else.
again thank you especiall to all but Whitey, Pb, RK, and finally ToyotaMatt especially. you guys make mud awesome
Last edited:
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Did you replace the blown fuse, #3?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Good question.
- Thread starter
- #178
yes
Skreddy
SILVER Star
What is fuse 3 for in your truck?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
It would be a good idea to trace out that #3 circuit to see if you can find the reason that the fuse was blown.
