no power to anything - battery charged (solved)

[Kschep]

You don't have to buy another battery. If you want to absolutely eliminate the battery as an issue then remove the leads from your Odyssey, connect your jumper cables to them (make sure the positive isn't touching a ground) and connect that to your Tacoma.

Edit: I'm not an Odyssey hater; I have owned more than one. But AGM batteries do funny things sometimes.

wait its AGM? i have been having my battery charger on Standard...is that why its not fully charging it? - and guys i did jump from my tacoma. and my plug in charger stops charging and says "fully charged" when its done...maybe becuase i have it on AGM and not STD its not doing the job i think its doing when i "charge" it...and my car started just fine that day on the way to the shop and about 4 other times when idrove it around the block testing certain things. the battery hasnt been a problem ... but like i said im willing to entertain that idea and just swap batteries

 

[Kschep]

Kyle,

It may help if you had the chance to school yourself on the circuits you are dealing with.

In the details below, this is how to identify the different connections on the starter solenoid:

50 - energizes the solenoid. From your picture, the blade under the connector you identified "take that one off?" at 9 o'clock. It is energized when the ignition switch is turned to "Start", or if a jumper is connected with 12V positive. When this is energized, even if the starter doesn't turn, you should here a "click" from the solenoid being energized.

30 - positive cable from the battery.

Note the starter is supposed to have a heavy ground cable connected directly to the frame, to complete the circuit back to the negative terminal on the battery. The negative cable from the battery should be connected to the frame, as well. The fasteners and washers and frame need to be polished clean to ensure no resistance in the circuit path.

C - power to the starter motor, only when the solenoid is energized by supplying 12V positive to terminal 50

To ignition coil - only energized when the solenoid is energized, supplies power directly to the positive coil terminal, on some models

You've been directed (above) to jump 12V positive to terminal 50 to rule out any problems with the wires running through the ignition switch. Make certain the transmission is in neutral. The engine won't start unless the ignition key is in the "run" position.


From the service manual:
View attachment 2908962

View attachment 2908963

View attachment 2908964

i have all the manuals - literally all of them so yes I have my book open to that exact page ou took those pic off

 

[Kschep]

OKAY !
BOOM it turned - put jumpers to correct position and yes turn so battery fine thank you very much

 

[Kschep]

" to jump 12V positive to terminal 50 "

THANK YOU for that - thats why i posted the pics of what i did because i wasnt sure i jumped the right ones but finally i did it right. thank you thank you...sorry for my novice-ness ... for some reason when i was reading that I didnt see "terminal 50" because i was trying to read everyones things and just got lost in the minutia - sensory overload with all the different posts from members trying to help. and i thank everyone again.

so the battery is good when i jump it correctly at starter it turns engine...
next step for me now that we cleared that up ? (because now im really out of whack because i got all stressed out that people were getting frustrated that i wasnt doing what they wanted so I was trying to do what everyone wanted....

 

[firefighterjed]

OKAY !
BOOM it turned - put jumpers to correct position and yes turn so battery fine thank you very much

Thank goodness! Now you can move past that.

 

[bikersmurf]

OKAY !
BOOM it turned - put jumpers to correct position and yes turn so battery fine thank you very much

Excellent news.

AGM : Absorbed Glass Mat (more durable, vibration resistant, etc).

FLA : Flooded Lead Acid (regular car battery with water/acid in it).

There are also Sealed Lead Acid that don’t need the water topped up (usually smaller batteries in backup power supplies, lights, etc).

Have you figured out what has been the problem?

Ignition switch? Wiring?

 

[firefighterjed]

You have a good battery.
You have voltage past the fusible link.
Next stop is the ammeter (AMP) on the back of the cluster.

Disconnect the battery before pulling the cluster.

Pull the cluster

Remove wires from ammeter and position them so they’re not touching anything

Reconnect battery.

Test for voltage. Expect full voltage at one. Zero on the other. Keep track of which wore goes where. The ammeter cares. Both are white, One has blue stripe, but I can’t remember off the top of my head which one has the stripe.

Before reinstalling the cluster, consider trimming the bottom tabs a little shorter so it’s easier to remove without marring your dash paint

 

[Kschep]

You have a good battery.
You have voltage past the fusible link.
Next stop is the ammeter (AMP) on the back of the cluster.

Disconnect the battery before pulling the cluster.

Pull the cluster

Remove wires from ammeter and position them so they’re not touching anything

Reconnect battery.

Test for voltage. Expect full voltage at one. Zero on the other. Keep track of which wore goes where. The ammeter cares. Both are white, One has blue stripe, but I can’t remember off the top of my head which one has the stripe.

Before reinstalling the cluster, consider trimming the bottom tabs a little shorter so it’s easier to remove without marring your dash paint

Cluster is off so I could test ammeter earlier - got a solid reading - per a previous post that I’m sure got lost in the mix…I can do it again though now that we had success on starter.

ONE THING I JUST NOTICED LOOKING AT MY WIRING DIAGRAM…

In the picture I have the black wire correctly in place , BUT I DO NOT HAVE a Red wire going from igniter to distributor….it’s never been there now that i noticed - so car Has started in past and it wasn’t there

And no, that is an optical illusion that is not the same wire going to positive and negative leads on same part (igniter)

 

[firefighterjed]

Edit to add: mine is a ‘76 and that year white came from the battery and the white with blue strip goes to the rest of the harness,

 

[firefighterjed]

if it ran before without that red wire, don’t get distracted by it. Often times the ignitions system has been upgraded. My is an DUI HEI, so I’m not familiar with OEM ignition, or other upgrades. I’m sure someone can tell what you’ve got by looking at your pics.

I think it’s unlikely that your problem is there. More likely something related to you digging in the dash.

Re-Connect your ammeter. Make SURE it’s not backwards and secure it so that it can’t fall against something metal and short across the ammeter posts.

Follow your wiring diagram to the next item you can test ( working toward the fuse block).

 

[Kschep]

Edit to add: mine is a ‘76 and that year white came from the battery and the white with blue strip goes to the rest of the harness,

Correct / & white with blue tracer is coming from alternator to the ign switch

 

[Kschep]

if it ran before without that red wire, don’t get distracted by it. Often times the ignitions system has been upgraded. My is an DUI HEI, so I’m not familiar with OEM ignition, or other upgrades. I’m sure someone can tell what you’ve got by looking at your pics.

I think it’s unlikely that your problem is there. More likely something related to you digging in the dash.

Re-Connect your ammeter. Make SURE it’s not backwards and secure it so that it can’t fall against something metal and short across the ammeter posts.

Follow your wiring diagram to the next item you can test ( working toward the fuse block).

Connected properly - not backward - covered to be safe .. pretty sure I’m good there

 

[firefighterjed]

I like the rubber boots. That’s smart!
Who did the refurb on your rig?

 

[Kschep]

So not having that red from distributor to ign coil I shouldn’t worry about? My previous owner ****ed with this so much I assume the stuff he did is incorrect. (As i basically redid the entire wire loom because of his nasty job. I cleaned it all up extremely well and maticulously. Started up , drove to shop, fuse blow - now here… so I don’t know what to think about that red wire

 

[Kschep]

I like the rubber boots. That’s smart!
Who did the refurb on your rig?

Muah (well not the refurb - the fixes to all the supposed refurbs) … meaning after the previous owner tried whatever he was trying (he died so I can’t ask him) I’m now fixing mistake after mistake … I have about three of these wiring diagrams all lit up with highlighters etc and I took my time and spoke to ToyotaMatt Coolerman and others throughout that process and I did it right (meaning - no sloppy anything - if it looked bad I replaced with OEM color code wires too for future reference. So yeah

 

[Kschep]

If you wanna see what it looked like before I started working on it check out my thread “electrical nightmare”

 

[73FJ40]

@firefighterjed .

" to jump 12V positive to terminal 50 "

THANK YOU for that - thats why i posted the pics of what i did because i wasnt sure i jumped the right ones but finally i did it right. thank you thank you...sorry for my novice-ness ... for some reason when i was reading that I didnt see "terminal 50" because i was trying to read everyones things and just got lost in the minutia - sensory overload with all the different posts from members trying to help. and i thank everyone again.

so the battery is good when i jump it correctly at starter it turns engine...
next step for me now that we cleared that up ? (because now im really out of whack because i got all stressed out that people were getting frustrated that i wasnt doing what they wanted so I was trying to do what everyone wanted....

Looks like your suggestion paid off!

 

[TheHardWay]

I must say, the quality of your close up pix is excellent.

 

[4Cruisers]

So not having that red from distributor to ign coil I shouldn’t worry about? My previous owner f***ed with this so much I assume the stuff he did is incorrect. (As i basically redid the entire wire loom because of his nasty job. I cleaned it all up extremely well and maticulously. Started up , drove to shop, fuse blow - now here… so I don’t know what to think about that red wire

The red wire (on diagram) is there, on your vehicle it just happens to be black - no big deal. On most of the distributors I've been through recently (more than a dozen) that wire is black.

 

[John McVicker]

Look @ your post 69…your words in this post do NOT match your picture in your posts 112 & 113.