Next steps on leaking steering rack (1 Viewer)

[Trail Badger]

I have a leaking boot, passenger side, on what I’m guessing is the steering rack? Is this correct? It’s accumulating on my garage floor at a decent rate each day.

I just purchased a proper floor jack and stands after acquiring my ‘06 LX last year. 236,000 miles. I’m new to wrenching.

I found this link talking about trying to fix the leak by using Lucas power steering stop leak or ATP AT-205.

Passenger side steering boot damage

Think I caught a rock on the drive home from HIH7. Didn't notice any leak when I got home, when I moved the vehicle in the driveway the next day I noticed a trail of fluid on the driveway. Any tips or tricks for replacing this?

forum.ih8mud.com

What should be my next steps? Thank you.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I'd clean it up and inspect a little further. If the boot is torn no amount of stop leak is going to work. I will say, if you're new to wrenching and it looks like your truck has some rust on it, the rack is a bear of a job. If it's not your main vehicle and you've got time, then great, but if you need it back driving the next day, I'd think about it.

 

[T4R2TLC]

Definitely clean up is the place to start so that you can determine how quickly it is leaking and whether the boot is torn.

If the leak is minor and not gushing out, start with the ATP AT-205, it is cheap compared to a steering rack and will not harm the system.

If you can manage the leak via an additive but the boot has a hole, you will need to replace the boot. This be done without removing the rack, but it does require tie rod removal and an alignment. If the rack can be saved, this may be a good time to refresh the tie rod ends while addressing that boot.

Start simple, clean it up and monitor it for a week, then give the ATP a try and continue monitoring. If the boot is torn, that is a must replace because it will allow dirt and dust to get inside to your ITRE and the rack seal.

 

[2001LC]

I like to start, by getting pictures of all wet & oily areas. Removing engine cover and both #1 & #2 undercarriage-shields (skids), open all areas for viewing. After documenting all wet areas. I use de-greasers and clean best I can with power washer.

Working top down:
At 236K miles. Your suction hose and return line coming from PS reservoir, are both likely weeping/leaking. They leak onto this area on PS side. Reservoir likely needs a good internal cleaning also. Additional check the high pressure line and return line from rack & pinion.

Flush system with fresh ATF, is a very good idea. I use Mobil 1 MV full syn ATF. You can add AT-205 after the flush, and leave it in. Do not use a stop leak, ever. AT-205 revitalizes seal, it's not a stop leak. Unfortunately it does not repair damaged seals. Which if your leaks are come from with the rack inner TRE boots, the seals are damaged. Only good cure is a new rack & pinion.

You can also move rack boot outward, and take a peak inside. Trick is understanding how the boot clamp works. I made this video for a friend a few weeks ago. He pull boot and found inner TRE had come loose. We're actually find this a little to often.



These thread may help some.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

Coolant leak at water inlet and..

Thanks for the informative videos. Don't you think the repairs in this truck at 169K is little too much? Specially the rear diff oil leak? Mine at 225K and no oil leaks so far. The inner diameter and the outer diameter of the bearings inside the idler pulley and the tensioner are all same...

forum.ih8mud.com

Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

Installing vane pump (power steering pump) torquing 3 mounting bolts to 13ft-lbf. Attache HP line to pump with new gasket, torque union bolt to 37ft-lbf

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[shtbrwn86]

I like to start, by getting pictures of all wet & oily areas. Removing engine cover and both #1 & #2 undercarriage-shields (skids), open all areas for viewing. After documenting all wet areas. I use de-greasers and clean best I can with power washer.

Working top down:
At 236K miles. Your suction hose and return line coming from PS reservoir, are both likely weeping/leaking. They leak onto this area on PS side. Reservoir likely needs a good internal cleaning also. Additional check the high pressure line and return line from rack & pinion.

Flush system with fresh ATF, is a very good idea. I use Mobil 1 MV full syn ATF. You can add AT-205 after the flush, and leave it in. Do not use a stop leak, ever. AT-205 revitalizes seal, it's not a stop leak. Unfortunately it does not repair damaged seals. Which if your leaks are come from with the rack inner TRE boots, the seals are damaged. Only good cure is a new rack & pinion.

You can also move rack boot outward, and take a peak inside. Trick is understanding how the boot clamp works. I made this video for a friend a few weeks ago. He pull boot and found inner TRE had come loose. We're actually find this a little to often.



These thread may help some.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

Coolant leak at water inlet and..

Thanks for the informative videos. Don't you think the repairs in this truck at 169K is little too much? Specially the rear diff oil leak? Mine at 225K and no oil leaks so far. The inner diameter and the outer diameter of the bearings inside the idler pulley and the tensioner are all same...

forum.ih8mud.com

Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

Installing vane pump (power steering pump) torquing 3 mounting bolts to 13ft-lbf. Attache HP line to pump with new gasket, torque union bolt to 37ft-lbf

forum.ih8mud.com

That doesn't look too bad but when @2001LC ends a video with "Good luck" I get a little anxious lol

 

[shtbrwn86]

I'd clean it up and inspect a little further. If the boot is torn no amount of stop leak is going to work. I will say, if you're new to wrenching and it looks like your truck has some rust on it, the rack is a bear of a job. If it's not your main vehicle and you've got time, then great, but if you need it back driving the next day, I'd think about it.

I didn't think the boot mattered as far as leaks go. I thought the boot was just there to keep junk out, not keep grease/fluid in.

 

[jahawk]

Definitely clean up is the place to start so that you can determine how quickly it is leaking and whether the boot is torn.

If the leak is minor and not gushing out, start with the ATP AT-205, it is cheap compared to a steering rack and will not harm the system.

If you can manage the leak via an additive but the boot has a hole, you will need to replace the boot. This be done without removing the rack, but it does require tie rod removal and an alignment. If the rack can be saved, this may be a good time to refresh the tie rod ends while addressing that boot.

Start simple, clean it up and monitor it for a week, then give the ATP a try and continue monitoring. If the boot is torn, that is a must replace because it will allow dirt and dust to get inside to your ITRE and the rack seal.

I've replaced the steering rack boots on a 100 using this method twice. The last time was yesterday. It takes a bit of muscle, and I needed a screw driver on one of them help pry the boot over. Roughly 20 minutes per side, and no need for an alignment.

 

[2001LC]

Yes, the boot is just a dust cover. It is just to protect inner TRE & output shaft, it's gear teeth (on DS side) and seal from the elements.

I be clear. I was NOT suggesting the OP's boot be replaced at this point. Merely that OP can unclasp clamps and slide boot outward. So he can take a PEAK inside of boot. If inside the boot is wet (holding fluid) with A/T fluid. it's a 98% certainty, seal of rack is leaking. 2% chance fluid got in boot through a hole, from external source.

As stated above: "Leaks from above should be corrected first".

But for those wishing to reboot. That video in post #7 "How to replaced steering bellows boot". IS NOT the way I'd reboot.
The way I reboot, Simple put: Disconnect the inner TRE from outer and slide off old & on new OEM boot. No alignment needed, if you place TRE's, back on at same thread count! Easy!

 

[2001LC]

That doesn't look too bad but when @2001LC ends a video with "Good luck" I get a little anxious lol

No worries, it is easy.
Once you understand how clamp locks and where to pinch on clamp. "Good luck" was to a friend, as it can be awkward. Also what he may or may not find, once boot moved to view inner TRE. As he was making the decision on either new R&P or just inner TRE. He found TRE walking off! Yikes!

ALERT:
We're finding a very dangerous issue. 3 times now just recently, since we've been looking. Two on what we think are factory installs.

Inner TRE end, are coming loose. The lock washer are giving way for some reason. If, the inner TRE threads completely off R&P shaft. Steering is lost. Scary stuff and very very dangerous.

I will be putting out an Alert on this issue, once I collect more data. At this point, I've no idea on how wide spread the issue is, or if isolated, or if affected TRE had been off once before result in walk-off. The alert will include: clues on how to spot, how to inspect for and the fix!

 

[Trail Badger]

I like to start, by getting pictures of all wet & oily areas. Removing engine cover and both #1 & #2 undercarriage-shields (skids), open all areas for viewing. After documenting all wet areas. I use de-greasers and clean best I can with power washer.

Working top down:
At 236K miles. Your suction hose and return line coming from PS reservoir, are both likely weeping/leaking. They leak onto this area on PS side. Reservoir likely needs a good internal cleaning also. Additional check the high pressure line and return line from rack & pinion.

Flush system with fresh ATF, is a very good idea. I use Mobil 1 MV full syn ATF. You can add AT-205 after the flush, and leave it in. Do not use a stop leak, ever. AT-205 revitalizes seal, it's not a stop leak. Unfortunately it does not repair damaged seals. Which if your leaks are come from with the rack inner TRE boots, the seals are damaged. Only good cure is a new rack & pinion.

You can also move rack boot outward, and take a peak inside. Trick is understanding how the boot clamp works. I made this video for a friend a few weeks ago. He pull boot and found inner TRE had come loose. We're actually find this a little to often.



These thread may help some.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

Coolant leak at water inlet and..

Thanks for the informative videos. Don't you think the repairs in this truck at 169K is little too much? Specially the rear diff oil leak? Mine at 225K and no oil leaks so far. The inner diameter and the outer diameter of the bearings inside the idler pulley and the tensioner are all same...

forum.ih8mud.com

Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

Installing vane pump (power steering pump) torquing 3 mounting bolts to 13ft-lbf. Attache HP line to pump with new gasket, torque union bolt to 37ft-lbf

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for the response @2001LC! I’ve been lurking on the site for awhile and have noticed the high quality of info you provide… I was hoping to get a suggestion from you!

I will follow your instructions, take some photos, degrease, and monitor the situation. Then check the lines and do a flush. Appreciate the help!

 

[dealmaker]

No worries, it is easy.
Once you understand how clamp locks and where to pinch on clamp. "Good luck" was to a friend, as it can be awkward. Also what he may or may not find, once boot moved to view inner TRE. As he was making the decision on either new R&P or just inner TRE. He found TRE walking off! Yikes!

ALERT:
We're finding a very dangerous issue. 3 times now just recently, since we've been looking. Two on what we think are factory installs.

Inner TRE end, are coming loose. The lock washer are giving way for some reason. If, the inner TRE threads completely off R&P shaft. Steering is lost. Scary stuff and very very dangerous.

I will be putting out an Alert on this issue, once I collect more data. At this point, I've no idea on how wide spread the issue is, or if isolated, or if affected TRE had been off once before result in walk-off. The alert will include: clues on how to spot, how to inspect for and the fix!

Great. I found my PS TRE loose about two yrs ago (137k miles) after closely inspecting repair work after an indy Lexus shop replaced my front AHC shocks were replaced. I can't imagine the TRE would intentionally be removed off for that?? I also can't imagine how they missed that but in any event I've pretty much lost confidence in them after that. The rack and TREs are original. Think I'll take it to an alignment shop for an alignment and have them peruse and double-check all rack components. 2k road trip coming up later this summer.

 

[2001LC]

Great. I found my PS TRE loose about two yrs ago (137k miles) after closely inspecting repair work after an indy Lexus shop replaced my front AHC shocks were replaced. I can't imagine the TRE would intentionally be removed off for that?? I also can't imagine how they missed that but in any event I've pretty much lost confidence in them after that. The rack and TREs are original. Think I'll take it to an alignment shop for an alignment and have them peruse and double-check all rack components. 2k road trip coming up later this summer.

Interesting you found an inner TRE loose on 06LX. No reason a shock R&R would touch any of the TRE. At 137K one would think, yours was factory rack & pinion along with inner TRE's. Unless an accident in history.

As boot is not removed in a general inspection. Detecting inner TRE loose is very difficult, as they're hidden by the boot from sight.

 

[abuck99]

@Trail Badger First step- check and monitor reservoir fluid level !

The large end of the boot has a locking clamp that can be removed- look in the FSM for the pictures of where to place your pliers to release and reuse the clamp.

As suggested, remove clamps and slide boot outward to inspect and clean boot area. Lifting front end on to appropriate safe stands, pulling the wheel off, you can have someone steer rack back and forth while you carefully inspect the rack for any visible leaking.

AT205 would be the only chem Id consider using to try and revitalize inner seals to mitigate leaking- but if dirt or sand is between seal and steering gear or seal is been damaged by dirt intrusion there’s no other fix than rebuild or replace.

As noted by @2001LC do not use any kind of stop leak- as it crystallizes around internal fittings and threads (to stop leaks) but it ruins pressure fittings-

Return line fitting at steering rack- fitting fused to line

And the result when trying to remove- fitting wouldn’t spin freely around line

And the PSA on loose Inner Tie Rod is cautionary measure on original racks- especially with built trucks on larger tires- this is specifically where the ITR screws into the end of the rack, a locking washer is meant to keep the ITR from unscrewing - and in my case was showing signs of failure. You can first check by holding tire/wheel at 9-3 to check for any play- then if play is found inspect where play is coming from. You really need to remove the boot to determine if the ITR ball joint is loose or if the ITR is loose where it screws into the rack.

Driver Side

(Note- in this picture that I’ve already unstaked the locking washer to tighten ITR. - best practice would be to remove the ITR and replace the locking washer at minimum and ITR if called for- I ended up replacing the rack two weeks later)

My theory for ITR coming loose is from improper tool use during alignment that stressed/stretched the folded portion or locking tabs allowing it to become loose- …..or it could be trail use on a 225k rack that wore it out IDK.

 

[dealmaker]

Interesting you found an inner TRE loose on 06LX. No reason a shock R&R would touch any of the TRE. At 137K one would think, yours was factory rack & pinion along with inner TRE's. Unless an accident in history.

As boot is not removed in a general inspection. Detecting inner TRE loose is very difficult, as they're hidden by the boot from sight.

This is just one of the reasons why I lost confidence in that indy Lexus mechanic in Hermosa Beach that I mentioned in a different post...the boot (passenger side) was pushed inward, so the end of the boot and the clap weren't secure on the nub or whatever it is on the rod that is where the boot/clamp should normally be secured. They reported leaking rack and recommended its replacement. I guess they push the boot back to look for leaks or the extent of leaking? I check power steering fluid regularly and it looks like it doesn't move so I figure if its a leak its a slow one and I can put off rack replacement. Anyway. I assume they failed to relocate the boot end back to its proper location, so I did it. That's when I discovered the loose rod (circled) so right or wrong, I simply tightened that rod with a crescent wrench. This was right after I got the car back from that front shock replacement in summer 2021. Since then I've put on 7k miles including five 500-mile road trips at 70 mph . No collision.

 

[Malleus]

I have a leaking boot, passenger side, on what I’m guessing is the steering rack? Is this correct? It’s accumulating on my garage floor at a decent rate each day.

I just purchased a proper floor jack and stands after acquiring my ‘06 LX last year. 236,000 miles. I’m new to wrenching.

I found this link talking about trying to fix the leak by using Lucas power steering stop leak or ATP AT-205.

Passenger side steering boot damage

Think I caught a rock on the drive home from HIH7. Didn't notice any leak when I got home, when I moved the vehicle in the driveway the next day I noticed a trail of fluid on the driveway. Any tips or tricks for replacing this?

forum.ih8mud.com

What should be my next steps? Thank you.

View attachment 3323435

The FSM says the steering assembly isn't serviceable. It is, but Toyota won't sell the seals/bushings to do it. You can find aftermarket parts which will work, and save yourself quite a lot of money. Of course, then you have to learn how to do the work, or find someone who'll do it for you. Most shops won't; they get more for replacing the steering assembly than they do for rebuilding one.

 

[abuck99]

Actually there are seal kits to rebuild the racks - but some special tools are required- and maybe a little skill-
About $120 for both kits .

Add new inner tie rods your at $300 with the seal kits and racks are in the $500’s- a lot of trouble to save $200 against a brand new OEM component

This is for 03-07

 

[adidas6804]

i ll add to this. my 92 civic has a leaking steering rack at 120k, i put a ratio of maybe 50/50 of honda powersteering fluid and lucas stop leak in the powersteering container. I drove like that for over 150k miles without an issue and very little fluid loss down the road. worked for the honda, not sure how well a toyota would take it.

 

[Malleus]

Actually there are seal kits to rebuild the racks - but some special tools are required- and maybe a little skill-
About $120 for both kits .

Add new inner tie rods your at $300 with the seal kits and racks are in the $500’s- a lot of trouble to save $200 against a brand new OEM component

This is for 03-07
View attachment 3325546

View attachment 3325556

I looked for those when my LX470 rack starting leaking and couldn't find them. Good to know they're available (and not Febest)!

 

[abuck99]

I looked for those when my LX470 rack starting leaking and couldn't find them. Good to know they're available (and not Febest)!

Hmmm LX - those parts I referenced were for LC.

I looked up the 0445560090 part and not available at Lexus so that indicates the rebuild seal kit on the LC rack is different to the LX rack.

0445560050 for the control valve rebuild kit is available from Lexus- at least that crosses over

Never the less I bet 1 in 101 on this forum will buy a new or reman rack before attempting to rebuild one.

 

[Malleus]

That's surprising, since both models have magic steering. I would have assumed the racks were the same; obviously not. And yes, I agree with you.