Builds Newly Restored 40 With Questions from the Past (1 Viewer)

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To replace a thermostat you'll want the thermostat itself, the housing gasket and the thermostat gasket. If you plan to remove the thermostat housing from the block you'll need that as well. Also consider the water pump gasket and hoses "while you're in there...". All stuff we stock (Japanese!!!) @ CruiserOutfitters, we can ship as soon as today! Cruiser Outfitters
 
To replace a thermostat you'll want the thermostat itself, the housing gasket and the thermostat gasket. If you plan to remove the thermostat housing from the block you'll need that as well. Also consider the water pump gasket and hoses "while you're in there...". All stuff we stock (Japanese!!!) @ CruiserOutfitters, we can ship as soon as today! Cruiser Outfitters

This is great thank you! My thermostat appears to be tight, I am thinking it is the water pump. I will investigate and let you know, thank you!

UPDATE: Checked the water pump tonight. I really cant tell if that is the cause of the leak or not without tearing everything apart. @cruiseroutfit can you give me a quote on the parts you mentioned?

Also, new issue: fuel is cutting off during acceleration from 2nd to 3rd gear and will sputter on the road. I have an aftermarket electronic fuel pump. She knocks when I prime the engine but it goes away quickly. However, when she gets hot, this seems to be a reoccurring problem. My rig normally runs rich, I am thinking I have a carb issue or am experiencing vapor lock? Any ideas?

Gremlins seem to jump out when you pull your 40 out of her winter hibernation, Ha! :(

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I'm just wrapping up my R2.8 and H55F 5spd install and will share my thoughts on the performance and drivability when it's done. There's a video of the first start-up and some photos of the install on my Instagram feed if you're curious (Search and Rescue Pinzgauer (@sarpinz) • Instagram photos and videos).

I checked out the video and photos you posted on Instagram, WOW!!! What a clean build! Is that your handy work? Love the Pinzgauer, too. Awesome rigs!
 
Sounds like maybe the electronic fuel pump is going bad or gummed up. I never had any issues with the OEM factory pump.
You could try some seafoam in the tank to see if it helps, or buy another fuel pump and use the ticking one for a spare. It's possible it's starving it for fuel which is why you are getting hesitation.

A carb rebuild would probably do wonders. I'm a little rusty on my carb ID, but @65swb45 @FJ40Jim do excellent rebuilds on carbs. I used Mark's Off-Road 65swb and it made my FJ55 run fantastic. Can't go wrong with either.

That looks like a Holley Mighty Mite Electronic fuel pump. ~$50ish
510-12-427.jpg
 
Sounds like maybe the electronic fuel pump is going bad or gummed up. I never had any issues with the OEM factory pump.
You could try some seafoam in the tank to see if it helps, or buy another fuel pump and use the ticking one for a spare. It's possible it's starving it for fuel which is why you are getting hesitation.

A carb rebuild would probably do wonders. I'm a little rusty on my carb ID, but @65swb45 @FJ40Jim do excellent rebuilds on carbs. I used Mark's Off-Road 65swb and it made my FJ55 run fantastic. Can't go wrong with either.

That looks like a Holley Mighty Mite Electronic fuel pump. ~$50ish
510-12-427.jpg

YES!!! After some research last night, I came to the same conclusion about the pump. The Holley didn't come across my radar, thank you!

@65swb45 @FJ40Jim can I ship my carb to you for a rebuild? Costs?

Thank you!

Weber Carb. Sorry for the poor quality!
1938085
 
YES!!! After some research last night, I came to the same conclusion about the pump. The Holley didn't come across my radar, thank you!

@65swb45 @FJ40Jim can I ship my carb to you for a rebuild? Costs?

Thank you!

Weber Carb. Sorry for the poor quality!
View attachment 1938085

I thought that was a weber. I'm not sure if either of them rebuild Webers or not. I believe pretty much everyone here will say OEM Carb is the way to go.
 
YES!!! After some research last night, I came to the same conclusion about the pump. The Holley didn't come across my radar, thank you!

@65swb45 @FJ40Jim can I ship my carb to you for a rebuild? Costs?

Thank you!

Weber Carb. Sorry for the poor quality!
View attachment 1938085
Sorry, I don’t do Webers...except to bbq on.
 
End goal is to do fuel injection. I definitely think (know) that she will need a carb rebuild before then (NOW!). :)
 
Sounds like maybe the electronic fuel pump is going bad or gummed up. I never had any issues with the OEM factory pump.
You could try some seafoam in the tank to see if it helps, or buy another fuel pump and use the ticking one for a spare. It's possible it's starving it for fuel which is why you are getting hesitation.

A carb rebuild would probably do wonders. I'm a little rusty on my carb ID, but @65swb45 @FJ40Jim do excellent rebuilds on carbs. I used Mark's Off-Road 65swb and it made my FJ55 run fantastic. Can't go wrong with either.

That looks like a Holley Mighty Mite Electronic fuel pump. ~$50ish
510-12-427.jpg

Ok, got a new fuel pump. Thoughts on PSI? There is another one that is a bit less.

175A39EB-52D1-49F7-8A35-97C841DAC565.jpeg
 
Ok, got a new fuel pump. Thoughts on PSI? There is another one that is a bit less.

View attachment 1938145

It looks like you need to get the lower PSI rating for the weber pump. 2.5-4psi is what Weber recommends.

On another note, after I had Mark rebuild and mod my OEM carb, I really didn't feel the need for fuel injection for a 2F pushing an FJ55 on 35's. It started quickly no matter how cold in Colorado and never seemed to go crazy offroading in the mountains.

I did however TBI inject my 350 in my FJ40 and it made a world of difference over my old Quadrajet carb.
 
End goal is to do fuel injection. I definitely think (know) that she will need a carb rebuild before then (NOW!). :)

My .02...

Get fuel injection now...
I highly recommend the Holley Sniper 2300 EFI system...

Makes a WORLD of difference in drive-ability and can be installed in a weekend.
 
Thank you all for the input.

I replaced the electric fuel pump last night. Unfortunately, the problems persist. She still sputters under harder acceleration loads.

I ABSOLUTELY aim to go fuel injected, however are there any interim fixes? I am thinking a carb rebuild is due. Should I also put in a regulator? If so, what pressure should I set it to?

Thank you!

*Please excuse the wiring mess, was out of butt connectors. Need to spend a day cleaning some of this up.

Photo of old pump, Holley is new.

IMG_0713.jpg


IMG_0714.jpg
 
Is the ticking noise gone?

You just have a sputter on acceleration?

I'd start with easy stuff. Put a clear fuel filter on after the pump from the parts store and see if it's as simple as bad gas.

Vacuum leak? When it's idling, spray some carb cleaning around the base of the carb. If the idle changes, you have vacuum leak and can try and retourqe the bolts, or get a new gasket. It could be the manifold leaking as well. Worth torquing that to spec also.


However...I'm thinking it might not be 100% fuel/carb issues. I'm thinking possibly electrical.

Have you pulled any of the plugs again to see if they are getting fouled? You mentioned you replaced the plugs and it ran better for a little while. If those plugs are fouled looking again, my money is on a coil or something going bad/weak.

Have you checked the distributor cap underneath to make sure it's not crusty/condesnstioned/hairline cracked or anything? Check the rotor as well.

Also, I would sooner rather than later clean up this wiring. Those connections on the coil don't look great so I would start there. Possibly some arc'ing loose connection causing issues? There are some splices and other things that need fixed.
 
Is the ticking noise gone?

You just have a sputter on acceleration?

I'd start with easy stuff. Put a clear fuel filter on after the pump from the parts store and see if it's as simple as bad gas.

Vacuum leak? When it's idling, spray some carb cleaning around the base of the carb. If the idle changes, you have vacuum leak and can try and retourqe the bolts, or get a new gasket. It could be the manifold leaking as well. Worth torquing that to spec also.


However...I'm thinking it might not be 100% fuel/carb issues. I'm thinking possibly electrical.

Have you pulled any of the plugs again to see if they are getting fouled? You mentioned you replaced the plugs and it ran better for a little while. If those plugs are fouled looking again, my money is on a coil or something going bad/weak.

Have you checked the distributor cap underneath to make sure it's not crusty/condesnstioned/hairline cracked or anything? Check the rotor as well.

Also, I would sooner rather than later clean up this wiring. Those connections on the coil don't look great so I would start there. Possibly some arc'ing loose connection causing issues? There are some splices and other things that need fixed.


Lots of good info here, thank you!

*I drained the gas tank last Fall. She sat a lot this winter but I put fresh 91 octane in her over the past few months during my time tinkering. I put a new Toyota fuel filter in recently as well. Does the Weber carb have a fuel filter that may cause an issue?

*Vacuum leak is possible. I will try what you suggested! Question, would the evaporative system cause any of these issues? I have the lines connected to the middle seat hookups, however I may have them wrong? Just an idea.

*I also thought about the plugs, worth a check. I recently replaced the distributor cap and rotor.

*One other idea: my temp gauge doesn't work. I replaced the sensor recently but it always shows too cold to register. I am wondering if this is why it runs rich? Thinking that more fuel is needed to warm up?
 
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Lots of good info here, thank you!

*I drained the gas tank last Fall. She sat a lot this winter but I put fresh 91 octane in her over the past few months during my time tinkering. I put a new Toyota fuel filter in recently as well. Does the Weber carb have a fuel filter that may cause an issue?

*Vacuum leak is possible. I will try what you suggested! Question, would the evaporative system cause any of these issues? I have the lines connected to the middle seat hookups, however I may have them wrong? Just an idea.

*I also thought about the plugs, worth a check. I recently replaced the distributor cap and rotor.

*One other idea: my temp gauge doesn't work. I replaced the sensor recently but it always shows too cold to register. I am wondering if this is why it runs rich?

You can probably rule out bad gas if it looks/smells good and has no chunks. There is usually a screen on the fuel input of some sort on the carb that could be gummed up.

Have you done any checks on the coil?

Evap system could cause issues. I had a fuel injected rig that would sputter and shut off. Once you opened the gas cap it would run fine. It took a little while for this to happen.

The temp gauge not working could be just a bad gauge, or could be a greater wiring issue, which I would try and clean up all the other wires as well.
 
I checked out the video and photos you posted on Instagram, WOW!!! What a clean build! Is that your handy work? Love the Pinzgauer, too. Awesome rigs!

It's a mix.. I did a lot of the work on the Pinz and worked with some great local companies on the fabrication work I don't have the tools for. The FJ is being done by @Level10Industries (you can find them on Insta and FB), he's one of the fabricators that has worked with TorFab for years.. He's done work on a number of my rigs over the years and has next level attention to detail which is obvious in all of his work. My current workload at my job and volunteer Search & Rescue work consumes most of my time leaving less for projects :)
 

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