Builds New project, 1969 fj40 (17 Viewers)

[firemanj92]

I’m seeing this black/white wire that I assume goes to the new one on the starter?

View attachment 3070655

Wire in just like the old... If the wire on the GR starter is attached via plastic plug in terminal-then the new wire won't be used. But if Matt included it attached at the same point as the old factory black/white then it will be used. But typically the GR starters have an extra wire in a plastic plug that isn't used as early LC's don't have an "exciter" wire to coil.

 

[6f40j9]

So I texted ToyotaMatt and he called me back. Talk about service!
Apparently someone along the line deleted my fusible link and was running the whole shebang off the starter
Now I need to round up/install one.
At least I can finish the starter though.

 

[6f40j9]

Wire in just like the old... If the wire on the GR starter is attached via plastic plug in terminal-then the new wire won't be used. But if Matt included it attached at the same point as the old factory black/white then it will be used. But typically the GR starters have an extra wire in a plastic plug that isn't used as early LC's don't have an "exciter" wire to coil.

Now I’m confused again. He told me to splice the black/white wire on the GR starter to my black/white wire.
I also have a ~10awg wire that came from the starter with nowhere to go now. I assumed that feeds the alternator and someone bypassed the fusible link at some point. But in trying to figure it out, I’m not sure an 02/69 even had one?!

 

[6f40j9]

According to Coolerman’s wiring diagram, there is no fusible link. I guess I will be adding one in somehow, since the wire is now too short to reach the + terminal on the starter.

 

[Green Bean]

Strongly recommend a fusable link from Coolerman. One of the best and easiest cheap modifications.

 

[69FJ40HILIX]

I’m seeing this black/white wire that I assume goes to the new one on the starter?

View attachment 3070655

Look at your original starter and see where the spade terminal goes, I suspect it is for the solenoid power to engage the starter. I'm questioning which models he refers to as Early models. Here is a wiring diagram, the Black/white goes to the solenoid, the White feeds the starter the third wire goes to ground.

 

[firemanj92]

Look at your original starter and see where the spade terminal goes, I suspect it is for the solenoid power to engage the starter. I'm questioning which models he refers to as Early models. Here is a wiring diagram, the Black/white goes to the solenoid, the White feeds the starter the third wire goes to ground.
View attachment 3071082

You have a 69, an early model (they are considered pre-74) did not have a fusible link. The factory harness (black w white stripe) goes to solenoid/spade. Power wire to large lug and ground to chassis. It's only 4 wires, simple. With the lack of a good view/pic you provided a typical GR starter has an extra wire in a factory plastic clip that is not used on early LC (Land Cruisers) as previously stated.... I have a 70, which is the same as your 69 (early LC's-pre 74).

Let's disregard what I said in a previously post since it has confused ya. Wire it just the same as you removed the previous "loaf of bread" starter. The thicker white wire is where you will put the fusible link in line to large lug with the positive bat cable and ground wire to bottom stud/bolt. Black/White stripe to solenoid spade.

 

[6f40j9]

Look at your original starter and see where the spade terminal goes, I suspect it is for the solenoid power to engage the starter. I'm questioning which models he refers to as Early models. Here is a wiring diagram, the Black/white goes to the solenoid, the White feeds the starter the third wire goes to ground

The white feeds the ammeter. Which then feeds the fuse block. It’s now going to come from the battery with a fusible link, instead of the starter.

 

[6f40j9]

You have a 69, an early model (they are considered pre-74) did not have a fusible link. The factory harness (black w white stripe) goes to solenoid/spade. Power wire to large lug and ground to chassis. It's only 4 wires, simple. With the lack of a good view/pic you provided a typical GR starter has an extra wire in a factory plastic clip that is not used on early LC (Land Cruisers) as previously stated.... I have a 70, which is the same as your 69 (early LC's-pre 74).

Let's disregard what I said in a previously post since it has confused ya. Wire it just the same as you removed the previous "loaf of bread" starter. The thicker white wire is where you will put the fusible link in line to large lug with the positive bat cable and ground wire to bottom stud/bolt. Black/White stripe to solenoid spade.

I’m going to the battery instead of the starter with the FL, but yes.
Thanks, I do appreciate all the input as I bumble my way through seemingly the simplest of tasks.

 

[6f40j9]

Pretty much at my wits end.
It ‘ran’ for about 6 seconds last month and that’s it.
I can’t get it to fire despite having air, fuel and spark.
I’ve rotated the distributor in tiny increments, nothing.
I’ve verified TDC and checked the firing order.
I’ve pulled the distributor and rotated the rotor 180*.
If I could afford to bring it somewhere and if cruiser shops didn’t have a 6 month lead time, I would.

 

[6f40j9]

Finally got it running yesterday. Now to put it back together.
These fenders are a pita by myself.

 

[6f40j9]

I don’t know how most people hang them, but I hooked the hood latch, then put the rear nut/bolt through the running board first, then hunched under and lifted the fender up to start the (4) main bolts. Then the (2) tub nut/bolts.

 

[6f40j9]

Rookie maneuver, I used gaskets but no sealant. Had to redo my thermostat housing halves and now I get to pull it off the block to seal that gasket.
Grrrr.
But aside from that it starts right up and idles smooth.
Still need to put it under load and time it though.

 

[6f40j9]

Of course the fuel pump chooses now to quit.
City racer to the rescue.

 

[Coolerman]

I just read through your entire thread and have to say you are plugging right along! You are learning the hard way which is the best way to learn.
With an FJ40, it's going to be one thing after another until you can get her stable. Once you reach that point, you will have many years of enjoyment.

FYI I do make a fusible link for the early trucks. It attaches to that 10ga White wire that connects to the starter. You cut off the large ring terminal on the White wire, connect the new fusible link to the White wire using the supplied Posi-Lock, then attach the other end of the fusible link with the ring terminal back to the starter.

 

[MDH33]

I just read through your entire thread and have to say you are plugging right along! You are learning the hard way which is the best way to learn.
With an FJ40, it's going to be one thing after another until you can get her stable. Once you reach that point, you will have many years of enjoyment.

FYI I do make a fusible link for the early trucks. It attaches to that 10ga White wire that connects to the starter. You cut off the large ring terminal on the White wire, connect the new fusible link to the White wire using the supplied Posi-Lock, then attach the other end of the fusible link with the ring terminal back to the starter.

I'm interested in one of those fusible links for my '69. Please let me know how to give you some money.

And keep up the good work ProjectTurd!

 

[firemanj92]

I'm interested in one of those fusible links for my '69. Please let me know how to give you some money.

And keep up the good work ProjectTurd!

Check out his (@Coolerman) signature line for a link, also posted it below


Cruiser Wiring - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm

 

[majdomo]

Great thread, l love the look of this one. You’ve learned a lot and kept at it, which is awesome! You used acetone / lacquer thinner for the removal, any abrasive to go with it?

 

[6f40j9]

Great thread, l love the look of this one. You’ve learned a lot and kept at it, which is awesome! You used acetone / lacquer thinner for the removal, any abrasive to go with it?

Just purple scotchbrite pads.

 

[6f40j9]

Next drama. Ordered a new oem fuel pump from city racer, got here in 2 days!
Not exactly a direct replacement though.
The flange is thicker so I had to scrounge some longer bolts.
The barbed fitting doesn’t come out so I can’t retrofit my existing fitting.
The existing hose is too short anyway.
So it’s off to the store next week for a barbed fitting for the fuel filter housing and some longer hose/clamps.