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I found the quick disconnect coupler fitting on my compression tester hose fits the air hose couplers too. All you have to do is remove the Schrader valve on the other end of the hose to allow air to flow thru it, so you can supply air into the cyldr.
Corey, it takes awhile for the oil to flow. If I recall, #4 TDC, spin the oiler with drill, oil will then OOZ, not really flow. Bogging may be as simple as a low batteryI think I screwed something up.
I shot some starting fluid down and it cranked and stumbled.
Then I realized I never attached the coil wire.
Tried a few more times and never stumbled or fired.
Now it bogs down when cranking.
I pulled the valve cover off and there’s no oil to be seen on the valve train.
I’ve cranked it for probably a minute or two all total.
It is getting fuel now.
Muck fe this is frustrating.
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When you say it bogs down have you pulled a plug or two to see if it is flooded? Even if was flooded it would not bog down as your valves are working so it will blow the unspent gas into the tail pipe. I agree with Fireman you need to just keep cranking it with a fully charged battey. If you have a multimeter check the resistor at the coil and let us know wht the resistance is. Then check the coil itself for an open or short. (PS: Turn the coil over, looks cool but it is directional) Test between the (+) and (-) on the coil it should be between .04 and 2 ohms. Now check between the (+) and the Primary (spark wire to distributor cap) and you should have 4000 to 6000 0hms. If the reading is zero the coil is shorted out and needs to be replaced. Check the distributor points and make sure they are opening, check the gap of the points they should be .018 on top of the distributour lobe. (take out # 1 plug and put your finger in the hole, turn the engin until air tries to blow past your finger, stop right there, now manually turn the motor to set the timing mark to 7degrees BTDC with the advance unit fully advanced. You will be static timed right there. When it's running you can time it with a timing light at 650 rpmI think I screwed something up.
I shot some starting fluid down and it cranked and stumbled.
Then I realized I never attached the coil wire.
Tried a few more times and never stumbled or fired.
Now it bogs down when cranking.
I pulled the valve cover off and there’s no oil to be seen on the valve train.
I’ve cranked it for probably a minute or two all total.
It is getting fuel now.
Muck fe this is frustrating.
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View attachment 3053093
Just a thought, you can pull the spark plugs and see if the starter spins the motor free without any resistance, basically checking the starter for flat spots in the armature or commentator. Have you insspected the timing chain ?
Gear Train for rust or corrosion, late night, I don't have the motor in front of me and have 2 on engine stands, so much for trying to help.
I have pulled the plugs, motor turns over without them.
time for a srarter yes. x9vhkjp-toyota-land-cruiser-starter.html
Straight off the internet, Parts Geek. It is a remanufactured but it is waranteed. I don't know if it required a core to be returned. Looked at it and it is a $38 dollar core charge so ship your old one back to them after you install the new one. I put it in a box and send it USPS, tell them it's media, books and it is a flat rate cheap. Check local and see what they get too.
Just for reference, I removed the black and white wire on the GR starter. Our earlier LC's don't use it.
