New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy" (4 Viewers)

90% of the time, do you use your big sockets on:

  • Big nuts

    Votes: 4 80.0%
  • Installing and removing seals and bearings

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .

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I have a pressure test kit here you can borrow.
Thanks, I was going to try and just test the tube. Might try submerging it with an air hose attached. I'll borrow yours for when I reassemble everything. Decided today to order an OEM radiator rather that mess with the old one. I'll keep it as a spare.
 
I rerouted the plumbing after installing a DUI. The DUI cap has an UBER Mellon. Clears my 2f air cleaner. In my case, it was necessary to channel my inner Neanderthal IOT bend the new pipe up ever so slightly. 👆🏻

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I rerouted the plumbing after installing a DUI. The DUI cap has an UBER Mellon. Clears my 2f air cleaner. In my case, it was necessary to channel my inner Neanderthal IOT bend the new pipe up ever so slightly. 👆🏻

View attachment 3841036
Wow, there's a lot going on in there.
 
Wow, there's a lot going on in there.

For sure. The DUI dizzy is LARGE. Barely clears. But, by mounting my new plumbing on the valve cover it was easy to reroute.
 
We did it! 96-mile hill country drive and Sandy is back home with a new beating heart!

She cruised easily at 65 mph (~2800 rpm) and still had a bit more to give. There is more power at the top end than before too. Touched 3500 rpm at one point and there was no complaint.

I'll test compression and such later this week just to have a baseline.

I need to sort out the spacing between the Vacuum advance and the oil filter. Anyone know if I can swap a different advance mechanism for this one. I have seen some that have a 90 degree port that would give me the room I need. Right now, I am running about 10* of advance because I can't dial the distributor any closer.
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I have few oil leaks to sort out too. Not sure if it's the valve cover or somewhere lower down.

Anyway, we celebrated with Sours made from one of our local Distilleries.
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Redline just released this video regarding stabbing the dizzy.

 
Redline just released this video regarding stabbing the dizzy.


Thanks, I watched that the other day. I think I'll have to "rewire" my cap to get the kind of clearance that they show in the still photo.

I am wondering if the style of VA shown in the photo can be retrofit to my existing distributor.
 
Drained the radiator...again...and removed it. I swapped out the "too close for comfort" fan for a new one from @cruiseroutfit that will give me a bunch more clearance.
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I actually sits further back than the clutch thermostat. (Old on the right, new on the left.)

I ordered a new radiator from Mr. T. Tired of worrying about leaks.

I'll reinstall the heater tomorrow and try and get the rest of the hoses shortened, routed and sorted before the new radiator arrives.

Then I have some light electrical to make permanent. Does anyone know if there is a source for the single connector for the oil sender? I can make it work with a male spade clip, but it look lame. I need both ends so I can make an extension from the driver's side to the passenger side oil pressure sender.
 
Hey Matt can I ask who rebuilt the 2F you just installed? Sorry it’s in the thread already.
 
Hey Matt can I ask who rebuilt the 2F you just installed? Sorry it’s in the thread already.
Kelly, it was Beau Parker (@bparker) at Safari Classics in Hot Springs. He has an in-house engine builder/rebuilder.

He was super easy to work with. Tons of after delivery installation support too. I think he's happier that my engine is installed than I am. :)
 
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Still waiting for my new radiator from Toyota. So I decided to do a few little jobs.

First up was tightening the oil pan bolts to spec. I had an oil leak and found some of the bolts were hand tight.
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I painted the valve cover since it got a bit scratched by the chain when it was lifted.
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Makes the engine compartment look nice.
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I decided to try and remove the drain from the old radiator and it did not go well. The silver solder was already compromised and the source of a leak. I just finished the job.
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Question of the day. I bought some 18mm silicone vacuum hose from Amazon to go from the air cleaner to the valve cover, but it's flimsy and doesn't look very good. I couldn't find any "real" rubber vacuum hose in auto part stores or online that was big enough. Has anyone else solved this connection?
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Still waiting for my new radiator from Toyota. So I decided to do a few little jobs.

First up was tightening the oil pan bolts to spec. I had an oil leak and found some of the bolts were hand tight.
View attachment 3850516

I painted the valve cover since it got a bit scratched by the chain when it was lifted.
View attachment 3850523
Makes the engine compartment look nice.
View attachment 3850524

I decided to try and remove the drain from the old radiator and it did not go well. The silver solder was already compromised and the source of a leak. I just finished the job.
View attachment 3850527

Question of the day. I bought some 18mm silicone vacuum hose from Amazon to go from the air cleaner to the valve cover, but it's flimsy and doesn't look very good. I couldn't find any "real" rubber vacuum hose in auto part stores or online that was big enough. Has anyone else solved this connection?
View attachment 3850536
Try McMaster-Carr on that last one.
Conversely, I’ve got all my smog stuff I. Pulled off my 62 in a bin and there are a bunch of hoses in there. You are welcome to try to find a fit.
 
Try McMaster-Carr on that last one.
Conversely, I’ve got all my smog stuff I. Pulled off my 62 in a bin and there are a bunch of hoses in there. You are welcome to try to find a fit.
Thanks, anything in the neighborhood of 18mm ID? Not sure why but this appears to be a challenging size.
 
Maybe your local auto parts store has a 5/8” id pre-bent hose that looks like an S with close dimensions? I’ve had ok luck going and telling them I need something not for its intended purpose and they’ll let me just look through hoses, seals, etc.
 
I put two 2F pcv hoses back to back, with a short piece of metal tubing at the midpoint junction. This is the Karma Cruiser.
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Matt I’ve bent straight heater hose with a spring and a heat gun. I’d think some 5/8 Gates with a long 5/8 OD spring from the hardware store would do the trick.

Insert spring into the hose so it doesn’t kink when you bend it, bend and then heat the hose, allow it to cool and then remove the spring. Repeat at the other end and you can make a hose with the two bends you need.
 
Matt I’ve bent straight heater hose with a spring and a heat gun. I’d think some 5/8 Gates with a long 5/8 OD spring from the hardware store would do the trick.

Insert spring into the hose so it doesn’t kink when you bend it, bend and then heat the hose, allow it to cool and then remove the spring. Repeat at the other end and you can make a hose with the two bends you need.
Maybe your local auto parts store has a 5/8” id pre-bent hose that looks like an S

I'll have to try 5/8" again since two of you mentioned it. I thought I tried it before and it would not fit the air cleaner port. I have bent my own hoses using that technique, that's why I was bummed to only find silicone hose. It does not bend as easily and kinks easily. I shortened it

I put two 2F pcv hoses back to back,
Mark, are those still available?
 
Matt my 77’s air cleaner port is the same diameter as the valve cover, yours may be different.
 

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