New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy"

[RevISK]

Let me know if you need a ride.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Let me know if you need a ride.

Thanks, my wife and I'll make a half day of it. Lunch in Boerne and a Hill Country Road trip.

 

[MatthewMcD]

We did it! 96-mile hill country drive and Sandy is back home with a new beating heart!

She cruised easily at 65 mph (~2800 rpm) and still had a bit more to give. There is more power at the top end than before too. Touched 3500 rpm at one point and there was no complaint.

I'll test compression and such later this week just to have a baseline.

I need to sort out the spacing between the Vacuum advance and the oil filter. Anyone know if I can swap a different advance mechanism for this one. I have seen some that have a 90 degree port that would give me the room I need. Right now, I am running about 10* of advance because I can't dial the distributor any closer.

I have few oil leaks to sort out too. Not sure if it's the valve cover or somewhere lower down.

Anyway, we celebrated with Sours made from one of our local Distilleries.

 

[B y r o n]

When you installed the distributor did you follow the manual instructions? This is for a 2F but I'm pretty sure the procedure would be the same.

 

[mrboatman]

You can clock the disturber around to give you more room. You just need to change the correct location afterwards.

 

[mrboatman]

I forgot the words plug wires

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I forgot the words plug wires

Priceless. This AM I ambled out to the BG to grab a bag of Monsanto’s golden deer magnet for the yard deer. I keep a box cutter in a cabinet beside the fridge. For some reason, known only to the angels on my shoulders, I spent a solid minute staring at a frozen steak and wondering “what was I looking for in the fridge”?

 

[Grayscale]

Original '75 vacuum retard in the '75 2F block.

My current distributor set-up, below. The F-distributor needed rotation (distributor gear relative to the cam gear). At present, I'm using a larger oil filter, so maybe yours just needs a smaller / newer diaphragm, if they swap? The smaller oil filter could be a solution?

 

[RevISK]

My 40’s VA is at a 90. You are welcome to come by and gaze at it.

 

[MatthewMcD]

You can clock the disturber around to give you more room. You just need to change the correct location afterwards.

Not sure what you mean by this.

 

[jimkyser]

He means you can turn the distributor any multiple of 60 degrees and then shift the plug wires. You don’t need to pull it out, just loosen and turn.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Original '75 vacuum retard in the '75 2F block.

View attachment 3840159

My current distributor set-up, below. The F-distributor needed rotation (distributor gear relative to the cam gear). At present, I'm using a larger oil filter, so maybe yours just needs a smaller / newer diaphragm, if they swap? The smaller oil filter could be a solution?

View attachment 3840158

Thanks for the photo too. I have to pull the distributor to address a stripped points retainer screw, I'll try changing the orientation. What are your thoughts on the "Coolant Pipe"? I have one in the spares that came with the new engine. I'd love to get it to route the hoses around the ignition.

 

[charliemeyer007]

The cap and rotor bug needs to be in time with the cam so the spark get to the correct plug at the correct time

 

[MatthewMcD]

Here is a shot of the new engine in place. I have a bunch of coolant and pcv hose cleanup to do. Also need to reroute the oil pressure wire that I moved from the driver's side to the passenger side.

 

[MatthewMcD]

When you installed the distributor did you follow the manual instructions? This is for a 2F but I'm pretty sure the procedure would be the same.

View attachment 3840021

Yes, mines a 2F and I followed the guide. The timing is fine for now, I just don't like the VA sitting on the oil filter.

 

[Grayscale]

There is an index to the cap on the distributor body. It keeps the rotor in-line with the correct plug wire. If the rotor and distributor body are clocked for fitment, it is done by moving of them together. (this keeps the numbers on the rotor correct to the spark plug hole)

Or, move the wires in their sockets, sixty degrees, like @jimkyser mentioned. It will allow you to time it so the diaphragm is closer to the engine side-cover.

I have a good coolant pipe, and one on the shelf that leaks. I'd stick to stock, unless it is too tired of a part. I might solder the bad one, but, I'm not about to play games with coolant leaks.

 

[RevISK]

Thanks for the photo too. I have to pull the distributor to address a stripped points retainer screw, I'll try changing the orientation. What are your thoughts on the "Coolant Pipe"? I have one in the spares that came with the new engine. I'd love to get it to route the hoses around the ignition.
View attachment 3840217

What do you need to know about this?

 

[MatthewMcD]

What do you need to know about this?

Originally, placement, but @Grayscale 's photo answers that. I am mostly wondering if it's a good design or just esthetic. I'd like to get the hose up off the distributor and fuel pump, it just looks sloppy.

 

[RevISK]

Originally, placement, but @Grayscale 's photo answers that. I am mostly wondering if it's a good design or just esthetic. I'd like to get the hose up off the distributor and fuel pump, it just looks sloppy.

I had to remove my old one due to pinholes, just ran rubber after my coolant system work. Will certainly be putting the replacement hard pipe in when I feel like tackling burping my system again.

If nothing else it tidys up the engine bay a bit. Does add two more potential points to leak from though.

 

[MatthewMcD]

I had to remove my old one due to pinholes, just ran rubber after my coolant system work. Will certainly be putting the replacement hard pipe in when I feel like tackling burping my system again.

If nothing else it tidys up the engine bay a bit. Does add two more potential points to leak from though.

I need to figure out how to pressure test it. Totally agree on the other points.