New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy" (13 Viewers)

90% of the time, do you use your big sockets on:

  • Big nuts

    Votes: 4 80.0%
  • Installing and removing seals and bearings

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .

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We’re into it! Everything is disconnected and drained.
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Now that I can see everything I have to ask. Can I pull the engine with the transmission and TC attached as a unit? It looks like it’ll be too in balanced.
 
I just remembered. The technique was to remove the motor mount ear from the driver's side of the engine. So, it is wise to unfreeze those fasteners before you undo the rear motor mounts to the frame. This way, you can no-fuss remove the mounting ear before the motor is pulled too far forward out of the engine bay, and it is getting a bit close to the original steering box. Maybe someone working with an impact wrench can do it with the engine's weight on the crane, but, I was just using hand-tools?

No tab.
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I just remembered. The technique was to remove the motor mount ear from the driver's side of the engine. So, it is wise to unfreeze those fasteners before you undo the rear motor mounts to the frame. This way, you can no-fuss remove the mounting ear before the motor is pulled too far forward out of the engine bay, and it is getting a bit close to the original steering box. Maybe someone working with an impact wrench can do it with the engine's weight on the crane, but, I was just using hand-tools?

No tab.
View attachment 3824514
Thanks, we did run into a binding issue on the steering box, we managed around it and saved the brake lines in the process. We got the whole assembly out without damage. I pulled the bell housing and flywheel and tomorrow will get it ready for resurfacing.

Here's a very tired me and our "shop dog" Zeus.
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Over beers we decided to put the new engine in and then install the Transmisson/TC after everything is running.

Tomorrow I'll clean the engine bay and address any rust. I'll be back next weekend to try and install the new engine.
 
Last question for the day, these keepers were on the flywheel. I haven't seen them in any of the diagrams. Do they have a name and are they necessary?
View attachment 3825240
The keepers go on then the corner gets folded over so the bolt can’t loosen. Not necessary but if you can reuse them it’s good insurance.
 
It’s been out for a couple days…. Why isn’t that old engine stripped so we can see what combo is inside it?!
 
Sweet, hadn't seen that exploded view. Thank You.
 
It’s been out for a couple days…. Why isn’t that old engine stripped so we can see what combo is inside it?!
'Cause I have to travel for work, so I can buy dog food and truck parts, so I have a happy dog and fulfilled spirit, so I can restore myself, so I can go back to work, so I can... :)
 
Looks to be correct per the parts diagram. Nut on top on pass, nut on bottom on driver. Did either of yours have a cotter pin?

View attachment 3825731
Thanks! One had a cotter pin, the other had the castle nut and no cotter pin. I plan to get it installed and then drill the bolts for cotter pins.
 
Just popped in to tell you that I dropped off your parts at UPS this morning, and to say thanks for the insulator. Maybe in spring I will get a chance to install it on Ruftoys and post a pic or two.😊
 
Looks to be correct per the parts diagram. Nut on top on pass, nut on bottom on driver. Did either of yours have a cotter pin?

View attachment 3825731
This information is wrong, and it is illogical. You cannot put your hand inside the driver’s side frame rail to set a cotter pin in through the castle nut. The nut goes on top.

And the saddle of the passenger mount gets wallowed out by the HEAD of the bolt facing down.

One of a hundred reasons why I tell people the FSM is a handy reference tool, but it is not the Bible.
 

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