CharlieS
GOLD Star
This is the way.
I've done similar by using a ladder as a "IV pole". Actually, an IV pole would be awesome. lol
My Videos: Changing the oil in the front/rear diffs and transfer case (1 Viewer)
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I've done similar by using a ladder as a "IV pole". Actually, an IV pole would be awesome. lol
The rear is very easy to access and easy to fill.
bloc
SILVER Star
For the diffs to be filled to the correct level yes the vehicle needs to be level. The whole idea is you fill with fluid until it starts running out of the fill hole. When the vehicle is level, that puts the fluid at the right level in the diff to protect all of the bearings while not being so full that it leads to leaks at the axle seals.
Spare removal depends on your refill method. If you squeeze directly out of the bottle via the provided spout, it’ll probably need to come out. Use some form of pump or transfer syringe, it can probably stay.
I understand the purpose of the vehicle being level I was just wondering if a stock vehicle needs to be on 4 jack stands or if there is enough room underneath to work? Thanks
Depends on how large you are and how flexible.
To get the right angles for pulling on wrenches and getting at the fill holes, it’s way easier to get the vehicle up on jack stands or ramps and remove the spare and front under-covers.
bloc
SILVER Star
I agree with sandroad. Generally I pull my truck up onto four ramps for this type of work.
I like that idea. What ramps are you using (weight rating)? Are you using jack stands too? Thanks!
bloc
SILVER Star
I have one pair of the standard model Rhino Ramps, and an older pair of composite ones that I don't know the brand. The Rhinos are 12k gvwr, which I assume means 6k on the axle or 3k each. With my whole rig weighing around 6k, plenty of margin for me. They seem to handle the weight with no evidence of strain.
I don't use supplemental support, but some people do on ramps. and really, I can easily fit under my truck with the wheels on the ground, this just gives a lot more room to move around and work, stand up fluid bottles, etc.
That transfer case is kind of a pain, at least the bolts are the same.
for the electrical tab, reach towards of front of the car
and push or pull the tab there from the top and the connector will lift off the bracket. I thought need a screw driver but that is not needed
for the electrical tab, reach towards of front of the car
and push or pull the tab there from the top and the connector will lift off the bracket. I thought need a screw driver but that is not needed
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I've got maybe 6 factory sealed Mobil 75w90 LS quarts on hand. Probably 6 years old stored in attached garage.
Question is 2 fold, are these too old to use and is the LS type compatible with the 200 diffs? 2019 if that matters.
Question is 2 fold, are these too old to use and is the LS type compatible with the 200 diffs? 2019 if that matters.
I would use it.. you may need more than 6 bottles for front and rear diff.
LS is just the additive for limited slip but 200 does not have LS but it won't matter.
bloc
SILVER Star
What interval are yall changing these? For some reason I had it in my mind for 30k but I see in my maintenance book it says 15k. Not sure how I missed that but I’m a little behind on changing mine now 
I've done 15k for the diffs and 30k for the transfer case. The tcase stuff looks new when draining it. The diffs look good too. I did the initial drain of all of them earlier than that to account for break-in stuff. I'd be good stretching the intervals at this point given I'm using bougie stuff in the diffs and the magic toyota cans for the tcase, but cannot determine an interval without some sort of oil analysis. I also do NOT plan on any sort of water crossings. If I did, I would replace all of this stuff asap regardless of mileage due to risk of contamination. People much smarter and more experienced than me mentioned this and it makes sense.What interval are yall changing these? For some reason I had it in my mind for 30k but I see in my maintenance book it says 15k. Not sure how I missed that but I’m a little behind on changing mine now
What interval are yall changing these? For some reason I had it in my mind for 30k but I see in my maintenance book it says 15k. Not sure how I missed that but I’m a little behind on changing mine now
I changed mine at 35k, The rear diff has a lot of fluid and I think it attributed to the oil looking clear, almost like new.
The front diff and transfer is a bit tinted. Good time to change it.
Up until now I have skipped any water crossings that look like they would be over the hubs. The Toyota fluid is what I plan on using, the t case stuff is definitely bouguie.
I’m at 28k so if mine is anything like yours than I feel like I’m fine.
I’ll do a black stone analysis and see what they say and adjust accordingly.
Thanks yall, I don’t feel so bad now.
Great thread and helpful videos! I am planning to do both diffs and the transfer case in the next week or so. Still confused as to whether the 75W-90 is okay to use in the transfer case? 2013 LX570 here...
I just did this today. Front and rear. I'm a novice when servicing this truck and frankly just started baselining it after a long history of letting the dealer maintain it.
Rear diff was easy except I'm really not a fan of the low profile fill plug bolt. I actually think it's easier to round this bolt then any of the front diff plugs. Ended up using my m12 impact wrench to break it off. Once removed the fill was easy. I used AMSoil 75W85 and it comes in a bladder type container with a point tip that you can easily maneuver in there.
The front was more of a pain. I ignored the part in the manual where it says to perform the fluid change on a level surface. I opted to use my rhino ramps so the truck was definitely at a bit of an incline. Even with this, once I removed the fill plug there was only a modest trickle of fluid, so I can't imagine it threw off the level too badly (hope not). Cracking the fill and drain plugs on the front was quite a PITA. I didn't have enough room to finagle my ~25" long breaker bar up into the space for the fill plug, so just used a 1/2in drive ratchet and swung on it for a while, almost gave up, before it cracked.
I had considered all kinds of fancy ways of filling the front diff, including various electric pumps, but ended up just using some clean tubing, attaching it to the nipple of the AMSoil container, and squeezing until said containers were empty. Wasn't too bad once the plugs were loose.
I'm at 76k miles and had never changed the diff fluids (dealer has done the transfer case). I don't tow, but am probably in the upper percentiles for forest road use in a year. Fluid was still relatively clear and didn't look too terrible to my (inexperienced) eyes.
Rear diff was easy except I'm really not a fan of the low profile fill plug bolt. I actually think it's easier to round this bolt then any of the front diff plugs. Ended up using my m12 impact wrench to break it off. Once removed the fill was easy. I used AMSoil 75W85 and it comes in a bladder type container with a point tip that you can easily maneuver in there.
The front was more of a pain. I ignored the part in the manual where it says to perform the fluid change on a level surface. I opted to use my rhino ramps so the truck was definitely at a bit of an incline. Even with this, once I removed the fill plug there was only a modest trickle of fluid, so I can't imagine it threw off the level too badly (hope not). Cracking the fill and drain plugs on the front was quite a PITA. I didn't have enough room to finagle my ~25" long breaker bar up into the space for the fill plug, so just used a 1/2in drive ratchet and swung on it for a while, almost gave up, before it cracked.
I had considered all kinds of fancy ways of filling the front diff, including various electric pumps, but ended up just using some clean tubing, attaching it to the nipple of the AMSoil container, and squeezing until said containers were empty. Wasn't too bad once the plugs were loose.
I'm at 76k miles and had never changed the diff fluids (dealer has done the transfer case). I don't tow, but am probably in the upper percentiles for forest road use in a year. Fluid was still relatively clear and didn't look too terrible to my (inexperienced) eyes.
