Builds My Tucson 40's

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Is the curved piece welded to the B pillar? Factory bows this is all one piece.
IMG_20200912_133952339.jpg
IMG_20200912_134008721.jpg
001029.jpg
IMG_20200924_155033698.jpg
IMG_20200922_100933531.jpg

Not in town but here some pictures of my pieces. You wheel well used a bracket that used four bolts. Have those but no pictures.

If the curved piece are loose going to be tricky to get the right height set. Once the round bow goes thru the round hole down in the B pillar it's the welded curved pieces resting in the tub that set the level. Your on a fast track but will be in town later in the month.
 
Thanks for all the info. I went searching and pretty much the b pillar tube is not going into the tub far enough. The shaped part of the b pillar is not connected to the b pillar hoop. Others have had this problem. Very simple solution.

I am curious how high the b pillar hoop is on the oem bows? Maybe a measurement from the floor up?
 
Took this earlier this year.
20220323_145853.jpg
20220323_145524.jpg

This why I asked about the metal pieces being welded to B bow. I have never compared but believe the tube extends the same on the soft top bow and hard top is the same length.
This top was off a 69. The rear bow is a little shorter like on the early bows. The top fits which makes me wonder if the bow was trimmed for the Kayline top.
001011.jpg
Not a fan of the plate on the bottom of the aftermarket rear bow. Pretty sure I have extras of the four bolt brackets. Using those it positions the bow correctly for the two hole straps. The left rear side of 73 much have backed it to something or been hit there. Have a small Ridge on the outside where the top of the wheel well is. The bolts on the strap at the top of the snapped right at the tub. Thought maybe the bolts were rusted but after owning for over twenty-five years I removed them. Left hand drill came right out.
0004.JPG
IMG_20201012_161551480.jpg

The factory bows really impressed be how stout they are. Planning on being in town for a week or two at the end of the month. But figure you be past the point of changing out the bracket at the back wheel well by then. Or measuring the B pillar bow.
 
Jack if your buying a pre made top might consider waiting until you have the top. I would install the top. Use something like the cargo bar HF sells to set the height of the B bow. Then mark the correct location of the metal pieces to weld in the correct location. Would be afraid would find the top was too loose or too tight in that area.
 
The top I ordered is supposed to be delivered Friday. My fix for the b pillar bow will be adjustable. So I should be good.

Thanks again for the input.
 
Hard to believe this is the same truck as the first post, you are doing a phenomenal job brining this thing back to life.
 
The fix was easier than I thought. The guide inside the b pillar of the tub was bent out of shape and blocking the bow from going all the down. I hammered the guide out of the way......and it fits like a glove now.
Painting the frame tonight.

20220707_175613.jpg
20220707_192454.jpg
 
My repop soft top bows showed up today. I installed them and the doors as soon as I got home. It seems decent so far, but needs some adjusting. The b pillar is way too high. The legs need to be shorter as they are bottoming out in the tub. I love cutting up new parts......lol

View attachment 3052134View attachment 3052136View attachment 3052138View attachment 3052139
I suddenly realize that my 40 tub used to have a soft top. Got holes there for it and everything.
 
I suddenly realize that my 40 tub used to have a soft top. Got holes there for it and everything.


From the mid sixties thru the mid seventies hard top models were made to except a factory soft top. Besides having a tailgate thru the 73 model at least a FST will have threaded holes on both ends of the dash for the eyebolts for the safety straps. 72-74 are even more confusing as all models have footman loops in the rear corners and place for a Vader light to the right of the glovebox door.

The pictures I previously posted are of my 68 FJ40 that is a hard top model. Only holes I had to drill were for the twists along the top of the tub. The factory that were there are different than the one the aftermarket Kayline top required. If Kayline had used the same hole location no mods would have been needed.
 
Last edited:
From the mid sixties thru the mid seventies hard top models were made to except a factory soft top. Besides having a tailgate thru the 73 model at least a FST will have threaded holes on both ends of the dash for the eyebolts for the safety straps. 72-74 are even more confusing as all models have footman loops in the rear corners and place for a Vader light to the right of the glovebox door.

The pictures I previously posted are of my 68 FJ40 that is a hard top model. Only holes I had to drill were for the twists along the top of the tub. The factory that were there are different than the one the aftermarket Kayline top required. If Kayline had used the same hole location no mods would have been needed.
I have holes already where the twists would go. Wondered what those were.
 
I have holes already where the twists would go. Wondered what those were.

My 73 FST had a hard top on it when I bought it. Fixed nuts for hard tops side and top front of the windshield frame were there. Kind of a unisex phase for Toyota. Could choose what style top you wanted.
 
Got the top frame all painted, reinstalled, and mostly adjusted. It's pretty stout for a soft top frame. I gave it the LITP test (well some what) and grab the b pillar and you can shake the whole rig with very little frame movement.

The soft top just got dropped off too. :grinpimp:

20220708_184755.jpg
20220708_184808.jpg
20220708_184836.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom