I was planning on sandwiching the AC condenser between the intercooler and radiator. I wonder how Axis set theirs up.
Builds My R2.8 Cummins FJ40 (RJ40) daily driver build
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As long as you go IC -> AC -> Rad you will be fine. The Fab draw etc doesn't matter that much for the IC since if you aint moving you have lower Intake Temps and the AC is usually sandwiched to the radiator so the fan pulls through it by default.
The heat path is what dictates the order from coolest to warmest.
I will be interested to see how much room you have between rad and grill. I am doing a 12HT into a 40 at the moment with a Front Mount IC and when you put that in front of Rad and try and fit between block and grill I have a funny feeling I am going to have to go to an electric fan setup to make it fit
The heat path is what dictates the order from coolest to warmest.
I will be interested to see how much room you have between rad and grill. I am doing a 12HT into a 40 at the moment with a Front Mount IC and when you put that in front of Rad and try and fit between block and grill I have a funny feeling I am going to have to go to an electric fan setup to make it fit
I did some measuring on my engine mounts, frame and front of tub (cowl/firewall) this weekend. the following are my measurements and may not be good for everyone but works on mine. Where I placed my engine I have 14.5" to 15" clearance from the front of my engine to the back of the headlight bib, so basically free area for Radiator/AC Condenser/ Intercooler location. I have attached a rough drawings showing dimensions from front of frame (not bumper extensions) to center of the fin on the shock tower, then from the center of the fin on the shock tower to center line of the bolt holes in the engine block on the Cummins R2.8 . I have also shown a measurement from the face of the cowl/firewall to the center of the bolt holes on the Cummins engine. Hope this helps. Height of the engine can be adjusted. I would have preferred to have my engine higher so I didn't have to worry about the front differential making contact with the oil pan I have about 4.5" clearance and that is with an Old Man EMU 2.5" lift and a 1" body lift.
Wow, thanks @amico For doing all the measuring.
I am using an aftermarket frame but coming up with similar measurements. I notice you need to cheat to the driver's side a bit because the tcase wants to come out and down to the left (not back and to the left). When I have the engine level I have about a half to 3/4" from that pipe on the drivers and the other thing on the passengers to the firewall.
I am using an aftermarket frame but coming up with similar measurements. I notice you need to cheat to the driver's side a bit because the tcase wants to come out and down to the left (not back and to the left). When I have the engine level I have about a half to 3/4" from that pipe on the drivers and the other thing on the passengers to the firewall.
I thought mine was close to center but it may be a little more to the driver side. My transmission mount was already there, so I set engine / transmission/ transfer case with tranny brace attached as one unit and adjusted so I could align bolts for the transmission mount.
Yes, Engine bolt holes are placed exactly opposite each other on the sides of the engine. I looked at mine last night after Salem747 mentioned off center mounting. Mine is close to center of the frame maybe 1/4" to 3/8" at most off center on drivers side, just measuring at the crank pulley. I already had an FJ60 transmission bracket mounted from the Chevy V8 and 4 speed I had previously installed so I just worked forward off that. Everything so far appears to line up.
I'll take some this week for you @ArthurFJ . What I did was I bought a replacement rad from Mishimoto and put it in the OE rad frame, then I welded a mount to the bib support that reaches back under the OE rad holder. I used 2x2x1/8' tubing and plasma'd it so it was like a cantilever.
So far I have welded a bracket around the front of the rad/condenser that bolts to the top of the mishimoto IC. Then, once I have my trans back in (to get the proper angle of the engine, I will weld a lower bracket for the IC, I think this will mean I will be stiff enough to get rid of the rad support bars.
As for the oil filter, because I am using a helical winch, my winch plate had to lift the winch up enough to clear the steering gear (saginaw), so this made for a nice safe spot for the oil filter under there. I had a local shop make me a set of pipes that bring the fittings facing forward and made my own -10 AN lines back and forth. FYI, you can just change the fittings in the filter housing and the oil cooler, I think it was the top one that was some weird metric thing, you just need an AN one. Just make sure you know which one is which, I actually punched a label on the filter housing to know.
Will post some pics when I get home on Thursday.
So far I have welded a bracket around the front of the rad/condenser that bolts to the top of the mishimoto IC. Then, once I have my trans back in (to get the proper angle of the engine, I will weld a lower bracket for the IC, I think this will mean I will be stiff enough to get rid of the rad support bars.
As for the oil filter, because I am using a helical winch, my winch plate had to lift the winch up enough to clear the steering gear (saginaw), so this made for a nice safe spot for the oil filter under there. I had a local shop make me a set of pipes that bring the fittings facing forward and made my own -10 AN lines back and forth. FYI, you can just change the fittings in the filter housing and the oil cooler, I think it was the top one that was some weird metric thing, you just need an AN one. Just make sure you know which one is which, I actually punched a label on the filter housing to know.
Will post some pics when I get home on Thursday.
Axis kit from what I understand mounted theirs sideways or so it appears.
Yeah I can't see how it would be a problem. I have seen them on funny angles in vehicles, the whole system must be under several PSI of pressure so shouldn't matter the orientation.
I hope not I have spent a few hours constructing my bracket and setting up. I don't want to do it over after I powder coated everything. Only potential issue I see is changing the oil. I'm old school and always prefilled oil filter before installing but I watched them change it on my Dodge Ram and they never prefilled filter, maybe I'm just living in the past,
anyways Axis appears to mount theirs horizontal.
It certainly frees up some firewall which is premium space.
I think I will put my ECM on the firewall where the heater was. I bought BTB (Manafre) firewall battery mount but you have to cut off the firewall brace for it and I think it would be really close to the turbo. Battery to go in OE location I think.
jim land
SILVER Star
It could be hazardous to bolt on the bib, the bib move alots when the suspension flex
Who is bolting on the bib?
Mine was, but I plan to slot the holes in bib and install a lower brace from frame to side of radiator. Being that I am not using the original radiator frame.
