Bout to start tackling putting the R2.8 in my rig….wondering what you went with for radiator / intercooler for this set up ? Why so ? Likes/dislikes, any advice is greatly appreciated…..
Question for my Cummins R2.8 Diesel Conversion peeps……
- Thread starter Troy Pusateri
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I have no info. But am curious about how the H55 bolted up to that engine. Adapter bellhousong or custom. ? Nice.
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Adapter bell housing sir. From QuickDraw.
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Oh nice thank you.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
I bought a Champion 4 core direct replacement radiator and bought a Frostbite intercooler from Summit. I reused the original radiator support after taking the twist out of it from the accident. I mounted the the intercooler to the fan shroud with angle iron I sourced from town and bolted to the support.
The radiator was recommended by a local shop and Overland Cruisers in MT. The intercooler was recommended by a MUD member for his R2.8.
I got a 18" mechanical fan kit from Quick Draw and a fan shroud from Man a Fre. I moved the cooling stack down and toward the fan to keep the fan inside the shroud. You will have to move the cooling stack away from the grill anyway to clear the bib.
If you need cold weather starts you can have the computer reconfigured for fast idle and if you go with the mechanical fan the electric fan can also be disabled so you don't through a code. I was just in Atlanta from after Thanksgiving through the snow storm in January so I have seen first hand it can get cold. Block heaters are available from Cummings but get a cord from Amazon for a 5.9 or 6.7 for a lot less then Cummins.
If you go with a direct replacement radiator you will need to unbolt the top of the t housing and rotate toward the upper tank hose fitting.
I used c-channel and welded to the frame right were there is a lip on both sides. Drilled two holes for the studs in the bottom of the radiator support. Air and pass over and under the intercooler.
You will need to fabricate a sheet metal cap to support and direct air to the cooling stack instead of around the stack. I am going to also put sheet metal under the stack to keep the air flow across the bottom.
The radiator was recommended by a local shop and Overland Cruisers in MT. The intercooler was recommended by a MUD member for his R2.8.
I got a 18" mechanical fan kit from Quick Draw and a fan shroud from Man a Fre. I moved the cooling stack down and toward the fan to keep the fan inside the shroud. You will have to move the cooling stack away from the grill anyway to clear the bib.
If you need cold weather starts you can have the computer reconfigured for fast idle and if you go with the mechanical fan the electric fan can also be disabled so you don't through a code. I was just in Atlanta from after Thanksgiving through the snow storm in January so I have seen first hand it can get cold. Block heaters are available from Cummings but get a cord from Amazon for a 5.9 or 6.7 for a lot less then Cummins.
If you go with a direct replacement radiator you will need to unbolt the top of the t housing and rotate toward the upper tank hose fitting.
I used c-channel and welded to the frame right were there is a lip on both sides. Drilled two holes for the studs in the bottom of the radiator support. Air and pass over and under the intercooler.
You will need to fabricate a sheet metal cap to support and direct air to the cooling stack instead of around the stack. I am going to also put sheet metal under the stack to keep the air flow across the bottom.
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Tell me more about this please!
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
I was searching for tunes and also the high idle feature. I was directed to Kevin at Axis Industries so I sent him an email. He told me the high idle feature is already in the computer and just needs to be turned on and he could turn off the electric fan signal. Each cost $25. If you are running the small fuel filter the WIF can be turned off but I want to have the WIF feature and want to run the largest fuel and oil filter I have room for.
I also got a a FJ40 pedal mount to mount the Cummins pedal for $10 but don't know if he has anymore. He threw in a FJ60 overflow to FJ60 fender mount, and a Murphy gouge mount for free. Apparently producing parts for Land Cruisers was not profitable and discontinued making and selling any.
I just received as I was writing this.
I also got a a FJ40 pedal mount to mount the Cummins pedal for $10 but don't know if he has anymore. He threw in a FJ60 overflow to FJ60 fender mount, and a Murphy gouge mount for free. Apparently producing parts for Land Cruisers was not profitable and discontinued making and selling any.
I just received as I was writing this.
How is the fit with the Quick Draw adapter? My understanding is that between Kevin at Axis and the guys at Advanced Adapters, they were able to put together a system that did not require relocation of the transmission and transfer case whereas the Quick Draw did. AA LS adapter to the H55F, Axis R2.8 to LS.
I'm in the process of putting a R2.8 with H55F into my 85 FJ60 and am about to order adapters so would like your input.
Thanks
I'm in the process of putting a R2.8 with H55F into my 85 FJ60 and am about to order adapters so would like your input.
Thanks
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
I got my kit from Overland Cruisers in Montana. Overland Cruisers - https://overlandcruisersmt.com/
You use your 2F bell housing and with some grinding of the bell housing motor mounts to clear the adapter plate, you can use them to secure the bell housing and they provide motor mounts for the R2.8. I elected to use the bell housing motor mounts.
They provide the front motor mounts and a new cross member is needed, the adapter plate with a crank extension to mount the 2F flywheel to and they use a Toyota clutch. The gear boxes are in the same position as before. The machine weight out of the Cummins flywheel and you exchange the one that comes with the R2.8 with the machined version. They will provide you with the Toyota part numbers for the isolators for the motor mounts and cross member.
The motor mounts they provide bolt to the frame in existing holes for location until you get them tacked in the pull the drive train back out and weld them out.
You use your 2F bell housing and with some grinding of the bell housing motor mounts to clear the adapter plate, you can use them to secure the bell housing and they provide motor mounts for the R2.8. I elected to use the bell housing motor mounts.
They provide the front motor mounts and a new cross member is needed, the adapter plate with a crank extension to mount the 2F flywheel to and they use a Toyota clutch. The gear boxes are in the same position as before. The machine weight out of the Cummins flywheel and you exchange the one that comes with the R2.8 with the machined version. They will provide you with the Toyota part numbers for the isolators for the motor mounts and cross member.
The motor mounts they provide bolt to the frame in existing holes for location until you get them tacked in the pull the drive train back out and weld them out.
Does anyone have the link for the R2.8 installation manual?
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
do a search for the Cummins R2.8 and it will come up with the link on the Cummins page.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star