Builds My R2.8 Cummins FJ40 (RJ40) daily driver build
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Nope, underground hardrock. I am the vp ops for barkerville gold mines now. Have done some block caving, underground development contracting, etc. Helps pay for stupid things like r2.8 fj40 frame up builds.
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- #123
Nice! Underground is MUCH more interesting
Finally, got my motor mounts (frame mounts) powder coated, bolted and torqued up. I shimmed them 1/2" higher than I originally had them just wanted extra height even if only 1/2". An all day event, garage 98 degrees 85% humidity typical Texas summer. Next investment, water cooler shop fan.
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- #125
Beautiful! I'll be copying that haha
Thanks good luck.
Hey, just wondering what you plan on doing with power steering if you go that route. The r2.8 comes with the pump right? Was wondering what steering box you might match it with and if you have figured out if it needs pressure regulation or not.
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Hey @ScottMilk, I'll be using a FJ80 Steering Box as was suggested to me by @Sheck44. From what I saw in his pics he didn't use a pressure regulator. But maybe I'm wrong?
Wow that looks Great. I bet those in-dash AC vents were a bear to install. The smaller grills are speakers, right???
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Thanks! They weren't too bad. I've just got a Y-junction that connects the windshield defrost to the dash louvers. Hopefully I don't lose too much pressure. I just needed something that could point to the side window to defrost in the Calgary winter.
Yes, those are for my 3.5" speakers
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- #133
Looks like some good progress
I had a Chevy V8 installed already with the H42 4 speed transmission on an FJ60 transmission mount. So I worked from the tranny mount forward to see if I had the clearance I needed for radiator, intercooler and AC condenser. I was lucky the Cummins was close but not touching the firewall (3/4" to 1"). Thank you Lord 
, I did not want to cut the tranny mounts off my frame. This gave me around 15" clearance from the engine fan pulley on the Cummins to the back side of the front bib. Yours is going to be a little more of a challenge because of the transmission your using and the frame. I will be more than happy to give you measurements from maybe the shock towers? I would assume the stretch frame you have would most likely have them same as factory. I can give you distance from end of frame to tub firewall and then from firewall to center of the engine block motor mounts.
My engine is fairly level slopes front to back maybe 1 degree that ways always drain to deep end of pan. I don't think it really says anywhere (just the way I have always done engine swaps). Let me know what you might need and I will see what I can do.
, I did not want to cut the tranny mounts off my frame. This gave me around 15" clearance from the engine fan pulley on the Cummins to the back side of the front bib. Yours is going to be a little more of a challenge because of the transmission your using and the frame. I will be more than happy to give you measurements from maybe the shock towers? I would assume the stretch frame you have would most likely have them same as factory. I can give you distance from end of frame to tub firewall and then from firewall to center of the engine block motor mounts.My engine is fairly level slopes front to back maybe 1 degree that ways always drain to deep end of pan. I don't think it really says anywhere (just the way I have always done engine swaps). Let me know what you might need and I will see what I can do.
By the way how did you get your tub so clean did you blast it or chemical strip it. Man that thing looks clean mine is a 1964 and I am afraid of what the skin looks like under all the paint.
Sorry, I forgot you got one of the new aluminum tubs. That is really slick.
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I had a Chevy V8 installed already with the H42 4 speed transmission on an FJ60 transmission mount. So I worked from the tranny mount forward to see if I had the clearance I needed for radiator, intercooler and AC condenser. I was lucky the Cummins was close but not touching the firewall (3/4" to 1"). Thank you Lord
My engine is fairly level slopes front to back maybe 1 degree that ways always drain to deep end of pan. I don't think it really says anywhere (just the way I have always done engine swaps). Let me know what you might need and I will see what I can do.
Thanks @amico! I would love this information as well. I should be marrying my engine/tranny/tcase here pretty soon
Yeah, measurement from the cowl body mount plane to the centre of the motor mount?
I am assuming I will fab a trans mount so I am pretty free that way.
I'm concerned about having enough space for the cooling package. I bought the mishimoto stuff. And a spal fan.
Did you put the intercooler right against the rad? Do you have an ac condenser?
Did you end up using the bumper mounts?
I am assuming I will fab a trans mount so I am pretty free that way.
I'm concerned about having enough space for the cooling package. I bought the mishimoto stuff. And a spal fan.
Did you put the intercooler right against the rad? Do you have an ac condenser?
Did you end up using the bumper mounts?
Yes I did use the Bumper Mounts, powder coated and installed a couple of weeks back. Thanks again for those. My radiator is the Flex-a-Lite -51160R with fan mounted which is 7" thick, my intercooler Frostbite Universal Intercooler FB602B which is 3" thick and the AC condenser is a little less than 1". All up tight would be 11" overall best case. My space now appears to have 15"clear. I plan to have 1/2" to 3/4" between front bib and intercooler, same at intercooler/AC cond., also same between AC cond./front radiator leaving a couple of inches at front of engine to back radiator fan motor. At least that's the plan. I am trying to get all body parts mounted now to have real hard numbers. I really can't go back any further or I would be into firewall. I haven't fabricated my intercooler radiator bracket yet, next week or so once body parts are all corrected and remounted. I wish Axis hadn't been so darn high on their pricing for their cooling package because theirs is complete and pretty much bolt up from what I understand.
I know that pricing is crazy. Did you see that Cummins is selling some parts now, one of which is the DPF "relocation" outlet? Axis is charging $205 for this and Cummins is charging $29!!!
When I was talking to the guy from Vintage Air he said the condenser is supposed to be the very first thing. My problem with that is the intercooler is not as tall as the rad so if you go condensor, intercooler, rad then fan, the fan won't be pulling anything through the AC or the intercooler unless you make some weird shrouding between them.
When I was talking to the guy from Vintage Air he said the condenser is supposed to be the very first thing. My problem with that is the intercooler is not as tall as the rad so if you go condensor, intercooler, rad then fan, the fan won't be pulling anything through the AC or the intercooler unless you make some weird shrouding between them.
