My Jan 81 FJ40 Frame Off Resto Mod (1 Viewer)

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Sweet work you've done on this, I can't believe you have done so much and without the title situation tied up, aren't you worried about someone else "owning" this vehicle? :crybaby: That would be my worry!!
Great job tho, it is very well done!!
 
Carl.

Yes the idea of pouring all this money into a truck with no title scares me still. But several folks have assured me that it's not a big deal as long as I spend $300 to $400 to register it in Maine and then bring registration back to Kentucky.

As Ive said before the part that kills me is that the PO is a member here on mud, and would be nice if he would just request a duplicate title and save me some bucks. I've asked and he denied my request. :flipoff2:

Oh well, Im determined to get this 40 done and driveable by the end of summer. However, this is not my day job and I dont get 2 weeks off like some of us ! And juggling 2 boys in Tae Kwon Do and a newborn baby girl. Ok enough excuses!

Back to the 40...:wrench:

Alex
 
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Wiring Harness Desmog

I've been contemplating my wiring harness as I'm approaching putting back in the rig.

The wiring harness and everything else is out of the truck now.

I will soon be putting the wiring harness back in but plan on de-smogging the 2F. I have already plugged air rail, have a TPI header and a Weber 38 carb.

Should I modify my harness or just tape off unused wiring, Emmissions ECU, etc?

Any tips? Hoping FJ40Jim might reply...
 
Question: Should I use RTV on the bolts of rear diff cover to assure no leaks?
YES, as well as both sides of the cork gasket. I don't give a crap what anyone else tells you, it will leak if you don't do this. I went so far as to replace every stud, washer, and nut with OEM and used the factory cork gasket and the bastid it still leaked. The Toyota FPG works best -

:cheers:

Tucker
 
Question: Should I use RTV on the bolts of rear diff cover to assure no leaks?

none of mine have ever leaked.. I just put rtv around each stud
 
I've been contemplating my wiring harness as I'm approaching putting back in the rig.

The wiring harness and everything else is out of the truck now.

I will soon be putting the wiring harness back in but plan on de-smogging the 2F. I have already plugged air rail, have a TPI header and a Weber 38 carb.

Should I modify my harness or just tape off unused wiring, Emmissions ECU, etc?

Any tips? Hoping FJ40Jim might reply...


There's only a handful of smog connectors on the driver's side fender area of the truck. I would leave them there in case you ever decide to, or have to, resmog it, or if the next owner has to. Just tuck them away under the carb cooler.

As for the diff cover gaskets, they shouldn't need RTV or FIPG if the bolts are torqued to the proper specs.
 
apeterson said:
none of mine have ever leaked.. I just put rtv around each stud

Bought new studs as 3 were stripped out and the rest were boogered up.

They came from SOR with some sort of sealant on threads of one end.

Stupid Question # 1: the threads with sealant go inwards or outwards holding the diff cover???

Stupid Question # 2: should I replace rear wheel bearings while I've got the spider gears out?
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Called www.SOR.com green sealant side goes towards pinion, then double nut studs to thread into case. Problem solved.

Removed long axle to get to brake parts on drivers side. Had to clean out bunch of sludge. Ordered new seals but going to run original bearings.

Went ahead and ordered new Lexus lug studs from Jegs.com. Kind of costly but thought it was cheap insurance when running wider aluminum rims.

Part # 070-100-7715 Lexus IS300 wheel studs. They are at least 1 inch lo ger than oem FJ40 studs.
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