My First Galley Plug Fix

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Is there a downside to replacing a plug that is designed to pop out with a threaded bolt that won´t pop out? I´m assuming Toyota designed it this way for a reason, so it can pop out in a particular failure scenario where the alternative would be something else giving way in a more drastic manner?
 
The custom crap catcher is brilliant!! Nice write up!

~ Carl
 
Followed your steps and it was very easy.

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Thanks
 
Why does the head bolt need to be removed? Seems to me this can be done with the valve cover on.
 
just as an update to anyone doing this soon. I went to home depot and found these instead of what the OP posted. i think it has been 5 years since the original post. Anyways, the tap is "F" instead of G now. I used this screw hook but it was originally like a question mark and i bent it as I needed to use a screw driver to pull the plug out once it was threaded all the way through. So buy a round ended one. Mine did not come out as easily as it did for others it seems. I just guessed the size but this seemed to be correct.
I used red loctite and got inpatient and drove it after 5 hours of waiting. It started weeping just a little tiny bit and might plug up... I might pull them out and use JB weld as others have if not.



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just as an update to anyone doing this soon. I went to home depot and found these instead of what the OP posted. i think it has been 5 years since the original post. Anyways, the tap is "F" instead of G now. I used this screw hook but it was originally like a question mark and i bent it as I needed to use a screw driver to pull the plug out once it was threaded all the way through. So buy a round ended one. Mine did not come out as easily as it did for others it seems. I just guessed the size but this seemed to be correct.
I used red loctite and got inpatient and drove it after 5 hours of waiting. It started weeping just a little tiny bit and might plug up... I might pull them out and use JB weld as others have if not.



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Mine came out as I was drilling into it, so I was able to skip the eye bolt step. I was lazy and left the valve cover on while I did the drilling and tapping. I just started the engine periodically and let the oil flush the shavings out. Do this at your own risk, I was told by several people that this is how mechanics typically do these things.
Mine is also weeping slightly, I might try the JB Weld as well.
 
I'm not mechanically inclined and just purchased a 62. Sounds like this is a must do. Assuming my plug is original and I wish to tackle this on my own. How do I know how far to drill if I leave the valve cover on?
 
It's an aluminum plug, if you have a nice sharp new bit you should be able to feel when you're all the way through. Just drill a small hole and hand thread an eye-bolt in, then yank it out :)
 
I just brought home a Cruiser last night and am doing this before I drive it anymore...Is everyone replacing the valve cover gasket when you do this? It would appear my gasket is leaking...

I have read all these Oil Galley plug fix threads and seem like there are a few tap sizes being used...I would prefer not having to drill anything. It seems like the folks using M8 X 1.25 tap aren't having to drill the hole out first before tapping, that correct? Are folks using the 5/16" taps because that is what Home Depot carries?

I think my plug is about to pop out....

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As fairly new guy of an 84 FJ60, you will have a lot of questions. This forum is awesome. My suggestion is to go to the 60 series Forum and search for 60 Series FAQ ( I recommend you read ALL FAQs on this page). Nonetheless...this is thread here will answer ALL of your questions (start from page 1) and follow Eporter step by step instructions as he breaks it down step by step with PICS...others give great tips. Mine was leaking and it looked just like yours. I know you quoted you "...prefer not to drill anything"...but would you want the alternative may be one day to have a puddle of oil & a seized engine? Heck, if I can do it, anyone can. Its not hard, just take our time. I used 2 plugs, I used Red Loctite for the first plug and JB WELD For the 2nd plug...YEP...REDUNDANCY!! Its dry as a dessert. Good luck.
 
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As fairly new guy of an 84 FJ60, you will have a lot of questions. This forum is awesome. My suggestion is to go to the 60 series Forum and search for 60 Series FAQ ( I recommend you read ALL FAQs on this page). Nonetheless...this is thread here will answer ALL of your questions (start from page 1) and follow Eporter step by step instructions as he breaks it down step by step with PICS...others give great tips. Mine was leaking and it looked just like yours. I know you quoted you "...prefer not to drill anything"...but would you want the alternative may be one day to have a puddle of oil & a seized engine? Heck, if I can do it, anyone can. Its not hard, just take our time. I used 2 plugs, I used Red Loctite for the first plug and JB WELD For the 2nd plug...YEP...REDUNDANCY!! Its dry as a dessert. Good luck.

Thanks, this forum is awesome! I have been working through the FAQs and have read all the oil galley plug threads in the FAQ, but this thread didn't answer "ALL" my questions, specifically the ones I asked. Maybe they were just dumb questions that should have not been asked. When I said "prefer not to drill anything", it was in reference drilling anything extra out of the head to accept the tap. I understand that I will have to drill to get the plug out. I doubt the guys using the M8 x 1.25 taps will have a puddle of oil and a seized engine as you suggested.

Is everyone replacing the valve cover gasket when you do this?

Are folks using the 5/16" taps because that is what Home Depot carries?

If the answer to the second one above is "yes", and the M8 won't require any extra drilling, that's what I am going to use.

Thanks
MD
 
Thanks, this forum is awesome! I have been working through the FAQs and have read all the oil galley plug threads in the FAQ, but this thread didn't answer "ALL" my questions, specifically the ones I asked. Maybe they were just dumb questions that should have not been asked. When I said "prefer not to drill anything", it was in reference drilling anything extra out of the head to accept the tap. I understand that I will have to drill to get the plug out. I doubt the guys using the M8 x 1.25 taps will have a puddle of oil and a seized engine as you suggested.

Is everyone replacing the valve cover gasket when you do this?

Are folks using the 5/16" taps because that is what Home Depot carries?

If the answer to the second one above is "yes", and the M8 won't require any extra drilling, that's what I am going to use.

Thanks
MD
Since the valve cover is off...why not. The 5/16 was available at my local home depot. My puddle of oil reference was referring to it the oil galley plug blows out. Good luck
 
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Hey, I just revisited this thread and I think I fixed any issues w/ photolinks not working, I uploaded some and linked some to an ih8mud album, so I hope they're all good for the future.

Re: drilling, I'd advise you to do it, even if you don't think you need to, and regardless of metric/imperial tap size choice. I'm not sure what tolerances that galley plug hole was originally drilled to, but it probably wasn't super close. So, if you try to use a tap without pre-drilling the appropriately-sized clearance hole, you run the risk of breaking the tap due to added stress from a too-small hole, metal bit/projection, etc. Cast iron can be harder to tap than regular mild steel, so why risk anything?
 
Hey, I just revisited this thread and I think I fixed any issues w/ photolinks not working, I uploaded some and linked some to an ih8mud album, so I hope they're all good for the future.

Re: drilling, I'd advise you to do it, even if you don't think you need to, and regardless of metric/imperial tap size choice. I'm not sure what tolerances that galley plug hole was originally drilled to, but it probably wasn't super close. So, if you try to use a tap without pre-drilling the appropriately-sized clearance hole, you run the risk of breaking the tap due to added stress from a too-small hole, metal bit/projection, etc. Cast iron can be harder to tap than regular mild steel, so why risk anything?

Thank you. Very good point on the galley plug hole not being held to any tolerance, I’ll drill it. Just trying to avoid having to get a right angle adapter and having to disconnect heater hose. Not going to chance a broken tap.

I’ll get a valve cover gasket and replace since the cover will be off as well.
 
Well, I did mine today, I used the tap and drill kit from Home Depot, had to go to Lowe’s to get the 90drill adapter. $20. I cut down the drill bit so the adapter would fit with having to take off any hoses. I had to grind a flat spot in it to get the chick to bite. Drilling it was easy and actually just pulled it out with a pair of needle nose. Covered the tap with grease and went to town. I also stuck a piece of rag in the head bolt hole with a zip tie as well. I would do 1/8th of a turn with tap and reverse it to clean grooves. After a few turns, I would pull whole thing out, clean and re grease. I used red permatex as the auto part store I went to didn’t have locktite. It was more of a liquid gel, so hopeing it doesn’t. I replaced by valve cover gasket and the rubber washers on the valve cover bolts. The one head bolt I removed was set at 115 ft/lbs. I set it back to 90. Everything leaks oil on my engine, so who knows if it will get worse. The valve cover gasket was pretty hard, so I am doubting that a rebuild was done @ 200k like to PO said was done....oh well.

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